Yes the 1970 discs work fine as 1 wild Rt says.
I used a manual disc master from a 1973 Charger. Works great, I never measured the bore size.
I am pretty good with a flaring tool, so I bent up my own lines. This is not for everyone, though.sounds like a line kit and a proportioning valve for a 70 would be in order?
Like I've stated before, you'd think what worked on one conversion will work on another.... But that's not always the case... Back in the 70's &80's I added discs to many cars & never had an issue.... These days that doesn't seem to be the case for lots of guys.... I don't know if it's parts issues, if proportioning valves are gummed up & not wanting to play nice... I know some of the repo valves flat out don't work, the spool binds in it's bore...wait....... wut?
Drum Booster or Disc Booster? Cause the Disc booster puts out about 50% more boost,I have my original booster and prop valve for my 68, I assume I'll be having the booster rebuilt and clean up the valve (for my car, not the 67)......I'll trust that over chinesium
Drum Booster or Disc Booster? Cause the Disc booster puts out about 50% more boost,
Depending on condition IMO around $300... Hubs? Or rotors? Cause new OE style two piece rotors are $$$ if you can even find them... New unicast rotors are $60 ea which is what I would do...so........ what would be a fair "friend to friend" price for the E body spindles, hubs, caliper cores , ect.?
Depending on condition IMO around $300... Hubs? Or rotors? Cause OE rotors are $$$ New unicast rotors are $60 ea which is what I would do...