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MSD 6LS box and Holley Sniper.

BeepBeepRR

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OK I have the engine in this Olds. I have the sniper plumbed in from tank to Sniper. I have the fuel pump working and the screen for the sniper lights up. I setup a basic 350 with stock cam and no power adder,Idle speed set at 750 rpm. So just a basic tune to get it up and running. Here is where I'm having issues. It says to use the tach output from the MSD to the tach input on the sniper. I have done this and it shows no RPM's So it also says you can plug in a single purple wire into the green/purple wires and hook that up to the tach output as well. I have tried both ways and get no signal to the sniper that the tach is working. Now with that said the actual tach in the car is working. I guess my question is do I need to disconnect that tach to send a pure signal to the sniper. Is it possible that the in car tach is messing with the tach signal?

So out of curiosity I dumped some gas into the sniper and hit the key and it fired up. No issues. So its definatly the snipers lack on RPM signal that wont allow fuel to pass through it.
Anyone got any Ideas?

Here is the MSD 6LS wiring schematic.
msd6ls.png


Here is the Sniper schematics.
snipertach.png
 
Connect tachometer to Snipers Brown wire, not the MSD tach output.
Use the MSD Tach output as the input to The Snipers magnetic pickup. manyal says there is a purple adaptor wire with connector in the box?
Change Ignition Type in the Software configuration.

Holley Video, wiring starts around 7:20 into the video.


Do not connect the Sniper Yellow wire to the CD Ignition coil.

I am not sure why the Sniper Yellow wire can not connect to the MSD Tach output?

If it was me, I would take advantage of the Snipers timing control. Lock the distributor advance, and get the rotor you can phase, or re-index the reluctor to pickup to get the correct phase index, then use the Sniper to trigger the MSD box.
 
Connect tachometer to Snipers Brown wire, not the MSD tach output.
Use the MSD Tach output as the input to The Snipers magnetic pickup. manyal says there is a purple adaptor wire with connector in the box?
Change Ignition Type in the Software configuration.

Holley Video, wiring starts around 7:20 into the video.


Do not connect the Sniper Yellow wire to the CD Ignition coil.

I am not sure why the Sniper Yellow wire can not connect to the MSD Tach output?

If it was me, I would take advantage of the Snipers timing control. Lock the distributor advance, and get the rotor you can phase, or re-index the reluctor to pickup to get the correct phase index, then use the Sniper to trigger the MSD box.

Thanks for the info I watched several videos too but most seem to be just short of what I need to know. I will check out that brown wire tomorrow. The problem is this is an LS so there is no distributor and the 6LS does all the spark control. I have done 2 sniper setups in 2 mopars just never did one on a car with a CD box. I tried the purple wire to the MSD box Yellow tach output and got jack squat.
 
Putting the tachometer on the sniper tach output will prevent anything related to the tach to mess with the signal into the sniper. I hear some of the tachometer that do rpm sweep when powered on create a bunch of triggers to the sniper.
The MSD Green/Purple connects to the distributor (or crank trigger pickup only.)
The MDS Tach Output connects to the Sniper purple wire of the green/purple twisted wires.
Seems Yellow wire not used at all in that configuration.
 
Putting the tachometer on the sniper tach output will prevent anything related to the tach to mess with the signal into the sniper. I hear some of the tachometer that do rpm sweep when powered on create a bunch of triggers to the sniper.
The MSD Green/Purple connects to the distributor (or crank trigger pickup only.)
The MDS Tach Output connects to the Sniper purple wire of the green/purple twisted wires.
Seems Yellow wire not used at all in that configuration.
The tach in the car does sweep when you turn the key on then goes back to 0. So maybe that is it. I'll check it out.
 
From what I have been reading you can ground the tach output wire from the MSD for 5 seconds to disable tach sweep. Does that sound correct?
 
Cut the wire from the tach loose and connected the purple wire to the tach lead from the MSD. I now have a tach signal. But the voltage drops well below 10 volts under cranking. Its as low as 8. So Im charging the battery and hoping it will fire off once its charged.
 
If not the battery, check the battery cables and connections. Bad battery cables/connections can cause voltage drop when cranking the engine (high current load.)
 
The battery is definitely weak. I have body to battery ground,body to block, frame to engine and main battery ground to block. Pretty sure it’s grounded well.
 
OK got it running. But have one issue I need to deal with tomorrow something I overlooked. But anyhow took a couple pictures of the setup today looks pretty cool for an LS.

GOES1279[1].JPG
 
I see many people struggling with this setup and even with it being partly documented on various forums, it’s not everything someone might need to solve the issue. I'll explain my situation and the outcome, hoping it helps others. I'll post a pic and a running video at the end. I have a Refreshed Junkyard LS3, I was building a motor for a tube chassis rock crawler that I have been building for a few years. My motor selection was based on parts I had lying around. Snipper EFI with prodash V1. So the ECU and ECM are going to be the Holley Snipper mated with the MSD LS 6014 Series controller, and like the thread stated all that these need to work is Tach Signal from the MSD to the Snipper, this is where I ran into the issue. The wiring between these two units is the Grey tach wire from the MSD to the Purple Dongle wire included with the Snipper that plugs into the twisted Green/Violet pair in the harness. I wired it as this and ran the Handheld wizard to setup the EFI and just dialed the MSD to the LS2-3-6-etc-HO position. I cranked it over and it fired up and died within a few seconds. The Handle Held on the Snipper was showing no Tach RPM and was in "Stall". double-checked the wiring etc. and all was good, called Holley and the tech must have been new because he couldn’t even find the Green/Violet twisted pair that is tagged Crank Sensor, he quickly connected me with MSD support that again provided zero help. The MSD tech said ship them the controller and they would check to see if it had a Tach Signal.... I asked well isn’t there another way of testing for tach? I said that I had read on a forum that if you put a multimeter in VAC mode and check the Grey wire from the MSD to the ground it will show voltage oscillating, the tech said no way that would work and I should just send it back and they would test it, I then asked couldn’t I just put a tach on that wire and check for signal, he then said well yes you can if you have a tach... So.. I took the easier path and grabbed my Multimeter and did the VAC setting and Grey to positive on the meter and black to ground and low and behold it oscillated around 5V, so it was actually providing a signal. Because the motor would run even just for a few moments, and I had confirmed the tach signal on the gray wire I concluded it wasn’t the MSD and had to be the Snipper. I went back to the Handheld, ran the wizard for the 10th time for my setup, and the making sure again I had selected CD as my ignition type. I saved it and power cycled the ECU and turned it over and still no Tach signal… At this point I went into the handheld system settings and discovered that its didn’t actually retain the settings that I set in the wizard starting with ignition type. The ignition type was still set to Coil-, I switched it back to CD saved it power cycled and went in again to check that it had saved the settings which it had, I turn the motor over and it not had tach signal and was showing RPM.

Conclusion:

* Holley Snipper EFI Twisted Green/Violet with the single Violet or purple wire connects to the MSD 6014 Gray Wire.

* If you need to validate Tach on the MSD, the MM on VAC does work, connect the positive lead on the MM to the Gray wire from the MSD and the negative lead goes on the Chassis or Battery Ground.


* Lastly don’t trust the Handheld Wizard for your setup, I have discovered that since the release of the new firmware which might be more common to the Snipper V2 the wizard is broken, I have had this happen a second time now after performing the firmware upgrade.
 
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