My 512" becomes a 505"

[Mike Gaines]

My engine builder told me today that he was making my new stroker motor a 505" not a 512". He only wants to bore it .030" over (505") not .060" over (512") so the cylinder walls will be just that much thicker. It is a 1977 Block.
I had him also install 440Source Steel Billet Main Caps and 440Source Steel Billet Girdle with studs. Block work will be finished in a day or two.
He is finishing up my heads also (INDY SEZ). He is using all COMP valve train components..dual valve spings, retainers, lash cap and locks. Using the INDY Valves and Viton valve seals.
He told me he didnt want to port the heads to MAX-WEDGE size as he believes the standard 440 size ports would give me more low end torque for my heavier (than an A Body) B Body Coronet.
I will keep you posted on the build.
He is going to video the Dyno Pulls.

 

[dvw]

smart builder

 

[Photon440]

Sounds like good advice. Your engine will likely gain more power from better ring sealing because of more rigid walls than you would get from the extra 7 cubes.

 

[65Fury440]

Tell us more about your HP goals and the rest of the build please? I am doing a stroker now and would like to hear what you have in mind for CR, cam etc.

 

[splicer]

Nothing wrong with a "505"..that's what mine is and I'll give a few details to help out

Eagle stroker kit, 7.1" rods, Mahle pistons. 10.7 CR
iNDY EZ heads, max wedge ported be Modern Cylinder head, Manley valves, comp springs and roller rockers
Comp custom solid roller with .630 lift, duration at .050 253/262
Super Victor intake, with Quickfuel 1050 cfm 4500 series.
TTI 2" headers, 3" exhaust to the back
727 with forward pattern, low band apply manual Cheetah valve body, 4000 stall convertor
.373 gears, 8 3/4 diff with Detroit Locker, Strange axles, 28.1" W series M/T slicks

Car is a 64 Polara with 4 wheel disc brakes, Hotchkiss upper A arms , roll bar, frame connectors, SS springs, Caltrac bars, weighs 3650 with me in it
Glass hood, scoop, bumpers

Best to date.....10.55 at 128 mph
Car is plated, insured, street legal, street driveable and gets rotten fuel mileage...LOL

Hope this may help...If you have questions, let me know

John B.

 

[Budnicks]

sounds like a good build,
no reason to bore it father than need be,
if it'll clean up @ 0.030"

7 ci won't make much difference
BUT; some {most} engine builders & cylinder head guys say
"the larger the cylinder bore, the better overall heads will flow"
thou it does un-shroud the valves a bit

not sure exactly how much another 0.030" would effect it thou

it'll be fine, good luck, keep us posted

I look forward to the dyno videos

 

[Mike Gaines]

I will keep you posted on the build and the progress and most importantly the dyno results and then the actual ET's and MPH results. First race with new motor wont be until the ANRA (American Nostalgia Racing Assoc) Meet at Famoso (Bakersfield) Drag Strip on June 20-21 and then the big MOPAR Weekend Race June 27,28 at the same track

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Splicer, Thanks for the info on your car. It looks like a great car with really sweet performance.

 

[Cranky]

You're only giving up 10.5 horsepower if you're making 1.5 hp per CI but it's well worth it imo. I've have many want a max bored engine and I just tell them you'll regret it at rebuild time.....

 

[383man]

I agree he is a good eng builder doing changes that make sense. I use the 440Source billet main caps also and use the ARP main studs. And mine is only 493 cubes so nothing wrong with a 505 ! Funny to think in todays stroker world that 493 cubes is small. But you are gonna love the torque that bad boy will make Mike. I know when I first drove mine you could not get the smile off my face for about a week ! Compared to my old 440 build the stroker just feels to have so much more torque and my old 440 had run 11.49. Yes definetly keep us posted on your progress with that bad boy 505 Mike as I love seeing a torque monster come to life. Ron

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Nothing wrong with a "505"..that's what mine is and I'll give a few details to help out

Eagle stroker kit, 7.1" rods, Mahle pistons. 10.7 CR
iNDY EZ heads, max wedge ported be Modern Cylinder head, Manley valves, comp springs and roller rockers
Comp custom solid roller with .630 lift, duration at .050 253/262
Super Victor intake, with Quickfuel 1050 cfm 4500 series.
TTI 2" headers, 3" exhaust to the back
727 with forward pattern, low band apply manual Cheetah valve body, 4000 stall convertor
.373 gears, 8 3/4 diff with Detroit Locker, Strange axles, 28.1" W series M/T slicks

Car is a 64 Polara with 4 wheel disc brakes, Hotchkiss upper A arms , roll bar, frame connectors, SS springs, Caltrac bars, weighs 3650 with me in it
Glass hood, scoop, bumpersView attachment 255420

Best to date.....10.55 at 128 mph
Car is plated, insured, street legal, street driveable and gets rotten fuel mileage...LOL

Hope this may help...If you have questions, let me know

John B.

John you have a nice build and a good running car ! My 493 is close to your 505 but I use a flat tappet cam (.585 & .592 lift and I use 1.6 rockers) and I run the Indy dual plane intake with an 850 DP carb. Alot of the rest of my build is close to yours as I run the basic EZ heads that flowed 329 @ .600 on the intakes. I use dished pistons for 10.6 comp and it has good quench to run fine on 92 pump. I have 2" TTI headers and 3" TTI exh out to the back bumper. Its a 727 with a Dynamic conveter and Turbo Action reverse manual valve body that drives good on the street and flashes about 4200 at the track. It has 4.30's with the Hoosier 30 x 9 radial slicks. Rear suspension is SS springs and the long MP shocks. I also use a Detroit Locker in the 8-3/4 rear. I also have a 6 point rollbar and frame connectors. I race it as I drive it through the pipes on 92 pump. My best when driving the 45 miles to the track has been 10.76 @ 124.79. It weighs just over 3700 lbs and its all steel but I do have a glass hood. I really want to try a nice single plane and more carb like a 1050 Dominator one day but the driveability is really nice with the dual plane intake and 850 DP.
Nice to know we think alot alike on our builds and yours is a real good looking Mopar that runs great ! Ron

 

[67coronetman]

Nice car...

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I am working on a Future Stroker for mine and it will have the 4:15 Crank & H-beam rods i just need Pistons and the other items like bearing & so on i am torn between a 440 block or a 400 block as i have always been a 440 may and 99.9% of all my stuff is for a 440..

You all have great cars & motors and ran your car runs great man if mine runs that good i will be happier than a puppy with two PETERS..... that is darn happy...

 

[biomedtechguy]

My engine builder also recommended a 505 build for the same reason. What about more than 512, ie max stroke and .030 over stock bore on a factory 440 block? What cu in size do you get? I know about having to clearance the blockand run an external oil system, but I would like opinions please. Thanks.

 

[Schober Motorsports]

Looking forward to following your build. Keep us updated!

 

[66Satellite47]

FYI
I went with the 512 because I was convinced my 440 block was very thick & could take the .060 over and still be stiff. We used 1/2 plus fill in the water jacket. 4.25 stroke, 7.10 rods. Performance results are great. Minimal clearencing needed.

 

[67convertible]

I am also looking forward to following the engine build to track numbers. I just finished my 508 stroker build (last Friday). Dyno numbers are 493 HP and 612 ft.lbs of torque at 3700 RPM. Having to run the CH-4B intake due to hood clearance. FYI.. I built the engine for my wife. Before I removed the engine she said, "this coronet will not fall our of a tree if you pushed it".. well, i am trying to fix that with the torque...lol...

 

[moparmarkk]

looking forward to hearing more

 

[Roughbird72]

No need in going more than +.030 unless it needs it.

 

[66Satellite47]

No need in going more than +.030 unless it needs it.

Agreed, generally not much reason to go beyond .030. I went .060 cuz the block was pretty thick.
My 512 came off the dyno at 692 HP & 675+ ft lbs torque with my old 850 DP. It has Indy EZ-1 heads (not ported), Indy single four manifold, Comp flat tappet custom grind .600+/- lift with 1.5 rockers. Probably should have the 1.6 ratio. Won't get to the track till Springtime here.

 

[Roughbird72]

Agreed, generally not much reason to go beyond .030. I went .060 cuz the block was pretty thick.
My 512 came off the dyno at 692 HP & 675+ ft lbs torque with my old 850 DP. It has Indy EZ-1 heads (not ported), Indy single four manifold, Comp flat tappet custom grind .600+/- lift with 1.5 rockers. Probably should have the 1.6 ratio. Won't get to the track till Springtime here.

I think one reason some go to a 4.375" bore over 4.35" is the selection of shelf pistons is better. IIRC a 4.375" bore also aids air flow over the 4.35" bore.
I helped a friend at his machine shop for a few years and we occasionally had someone come in and want to go right to +.060 even when +.02 would have been sufficient. Half the time you couldn't talk them out of it because they were convinced of greater HP gains than what they actually got.

 

[66Satellite47]

Very true, although ring availability is much better today than many years ago. 4.380 is more available now, when it used to be 4.375 (Chevy overbore). Bigger bore makes a bit more power due to the larger area the flame front can act on and a more open valve condition. Although HP difference is still minimal.