My Motor Build up. 383

[condor74]

Ok update on the build. Well the rust in one of the cylinder did not clean up. I am confident that it would run fine if I put it togeather but I want better than new performance so I am going to go ahead and have it sleeved. We are putting in a 3/32 sleeve and then honing the entire block.

 

[TIGwelder]

For comparison. The old school, late 80's early 90's, build in my 1966 Coronet 500

'70 2 BBL 383 motor (stock untouched low mileage short block) - hardened seats - Hemi springs - SS exhaust valves - 284/484 purple shaft cam - 3/8 pushrods - hamburgers deep steel pan - High volume pump and high pressure spring - Holley Street Dom intake - 650 Holley DP - Manual 727/3800 stall turbo action - mopar electronic dist and volt reg - super stocks - 8-3/4 w/4:10's - 26" tire - 4 core rad - old "Disc-o-tech" brake swap

It's basically one of the old Direct Connection/Mopar performance suggested builds from the old catalogs if you've ever seen those.

Car ran a super consistent 13.6 which I think was more of a habit of how I ran the car. Trapped at 99mph at over 6000 rpm. Best of 13.4

Biggest gain while I was slowly getting the car quicker was the converter. Even with the 4.10s, I dropped from an 28" tire to a 26" and added the 3800 converter and picked up almost a second.

If it was me and what I would do if I was rebuilding mine..I would consider looking for something other that the Purple Shaft cam. That cam profile was designed over 20 years ago. Yes..it's old school Mopar...yes it works...but it's an old design too. Maybe you can find something better.

Take the vac secondary carbs and use them as door stops or paperweights if your looking for consistent performance ;) I first tried thermo quads and holley vac sec carbs. I played that game with the springs, rods, airdoors and crap and it's not worth the aggregation. Throw on a double pumper and change out the squirter to the tube type (I use a 31 front). Mine needs a real low number power valve too..around 6.5 . My setup is probably under carbed a bit, but reacts like an electric motor. Hammer it and it's instantly gone without hesitation.

Always thought it could use a bit more at the top end, but never had any problems. It was a lower compression motor and I was also running a smaller diameter Hedman header.

I'd also just go with the Mopar electronic dist kit and electronic voltage regulator and be done with it unless you have plans for a different electronic box.

During an idle the overlap is insane on the 484 Purple Shaft. Hold a section of plastic bag and cover the exhaust pipe (no X in system) and you can see it sucking in the bag into the pipe between firings. Idle definitely lumpy.

Have fun and good luck with your build

 

[condor74]

For comparison. The old school, late 80's early 90's, build in my 1966 Coronet 500

'70 2 BBL 383 motor (stock untouched low mileage short block) - hardened seats - Hemi springs - SS exhaust valves - 284/484 purple shaft cam - 3/8 pushrods - hamburgers deep steel pan - High volume pump and high pressure spring - Holley Street Dom intake - 650 Holley DP - Manual 727/3800 stall turbo action - mopar electronic dist and volt reg - super stocks - 8-3/4 w/4:10's - 26" tire - 4 core rad - old "Disc-o-tech" brake swap

It's basically one of the old Direct Connection/Mopar performance suggested builds from the old catalogs if you've ever seen those.

Car ran a super consistent 13.6 which I think was more of a habit of how I ran the car. Trapped at 99mph at over 6000 rpm. Best of 13.4

Biggest gain while I was slowly getting the car quicker was the converter. Even with the 4.10s, I dropped from an 28" tire to a 26" and added the 3800 converter and picked up almost a second.

If it was me and what I would do if I was rebuilding mine..I would consider looking for something other that the Purple Shaft cam. That cam profile was designed over 20 years ago. Yes..it's old school Mopar...yes it works...but it's an old design too. Maybe you can find something better.

Take the vac secondary carbs and use them as door stops or paperweights if your looking for consistent performance ;) I first tried thermo quads and holley vac sec carbs. I played that game with the springs, rods, airdoors and crap and it's not worth the aggregation. Throw on a double pumper and change out the squirter to the tube type (I use a 31 front). Mine needs a real low number power valve too..around 6.5 . My setup is probably under carbed a bit, but reacts like an electric motor. Hammer it and it's instantly gone without hesitation.

Always thought it could use a bit more at the top end, but never had any problems. It was a lower compression motor and I was also running a smaller diameter Hedman header.

I'd also just go with the Mopar electronic dist kit and electronic voltage regulator and be done with it unless you have plans for a different electronic box.

During an idle the overlap is insane on the 484 Purple Shaft. Hold a section of plastic bag and cover the exhaust pipe (no X in system) and you can see it sucking in the bag into the pipe between firings. Idle definitely lumpy.

Have fun and good luck with your build

Thanks that does sound similar. It is taking a long time to get all the machine work done but it is getting there. I wound up having to put a sleeve in the number 5 cylinder. Block is bored and decked .060 now. I already have the cam but at a later date I might experiment with a newer design. I am still crossing my fingers and hoping for high 12s. Low 13s would be ok because I could change a few things and hopefully get it down into the 12s.

 

[bbeep69]

Sleeving the block was the proper way to go. I am also running the TRW L2293 pistons in mine (they were already in there when I got the car) along with a set of ported 452 heads and oversized valves (2.14/1.81). Compression is liveable enough for me to run 87 octane gas with the timing at about 28-32 degrees initial and the vacuum port on the distriputor set at mid-point. It's not scientific by any means but the car does run very well.
The 509 is a good cam. Some years ago a local guy here in Orlando ran a '70 GTX with an automatic trans and a 440 with the 509 cam and he could pull low 12's on slicks through a full 2.5" exhaust system with headers. That car was set up right.
The Mopar Perf. electronic ignition is a must in my book. Run the chrome box at the strip but throw away that orange box - they are crap. I run a Borg-Warner box in mine on the street and it has been rock solid for over 7 years.
Your build sounds like a good one. One recommendation I might make is to go to an Edelbrock Performer RPM or Mopar M-1 single plane sometime on down the line, but that is just me. I'm running the RPM on mine now and its a good intake.
Later on if you are going to add a cam the Hughes and Comp XE-HL flat tappet hydraulic offerings are good choices that utilize the fast ramp technology offered by Mopar's larger diameter lifter. Also, I'd recommend a set of roller rockers with a ratio of 1.6 instead of the stock 1.5 ratio. I'm running a set of CAT needle bearing fulcrum and roller tip rockers with my Comp XE275HL-10 cam (231-237 duration @ 0.50 @ 110 c/l and .525" lift) and with the 1.6 rockers the lift calcs out to .560". For me the cam is a bit too big so I'm planning on a cam swap this spring to a milder 224-231 cam with 114 c/l and .466/.488 lift so as to get a more driveable car. I'm debating on whether or not to stay with my tti 1-7/8" headers or swap back to manifolds and keep my 3" exhaust system. It all depends on finances I suppose.
I'll be keeping tabs on your project. It sounds like you'll have a nice build when it is done.

 

[condor74]

The distributor at least for now is an old Mallory dual point distributor. I know it is old tech but I did set this thing up on an antique distributor machine years ago and it spun up to 5000 RPM with plenty of dwell and no point bounce. A picture perfect single. That equates to 10000 engine RPM which I will probably never get close to. From what I have read the Holley street dominator manifold is one of the best on the market even though it is a bit dated. I hope to start putting it together real soon. I will keep you posted.

 

[bbeep69]

The distributor at least for now is an old Mallory dual point distributor. I know it is old tech but I did set this thing up on an antique distributor machine years ago and it spun up to 5000 RPM with plenty of dwell and no point bounce. A picture perfect single. That equates to 10000 engine RPM which I will probably never get close to. From what I have read the Holley street dominator manifold is one of the best on the market even though it is a bit dated. I hope to start putting it together real soon. I will keep you posted.

The Street Dominator is a good intake - even if it has been around awhile. You won't be disappointed by it.
In case you are interested, here are a couple of intake comparisons done by Hot Rod. Good stuff in here. The Street Dominator results are in the 2nd article.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0712_mopar_intake_manifold_comparo/edelbrock_383.html
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0801_mopar_intake_manifolds/index.html

 

[condor74]

I just thought I would post a picture of my engine. It is back from the machine shop and I have cleaned it, oiled it, installed the crankshaft, and trial fitted a piston to check deck height. For the record the deck height is 0.0 I have some more work to do.. i have to drill out a couple of alignment pins on the deck that broke when we were trying to remove them. I didnt want to install the pistons until they are out.

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