Need advice installing clutch linkage and 2" Dougs headers

[elliskev2]

Hello everyone, getting ready to drop my engine into my 70 Road Runner. I have Doug's headers and was test fitting the passenger side. My question is who may have advice on getting the z bar installed? Those header tubes eat up a lot of room. Definitely need a plan and possibly modify the linkage to the fork. Thanks

 

[5.7 hemi]

Go hydraulic, problem(s) solved.

 

[dave dodge]

Although my car wasn't a 70Plymouth, mine 67 r/t. I installed mine after the motor was in through the access in the inner fender. It takes a little finesse but it can be done.

 

[Daves69]

It's a puzzle with headers. Some painters tape on the corners of the bell crank can help minimize paint scrapes.
Side note: You did bench test you starter before you bolted it up, right?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

At least in your last/bottom picture it looks like you've got a ton of room for the Z-bar. Is there a clearance issue that's not obvious in the picture? I also have a 70 Road Runner 4spd car & I've run 3 different styles of headers and never had an issue with the clutch linkage. It always went in easy after the motor/headers were installed.

I think the only "trick" I ever used was to install the bellhousing side pivot & white bushings into the Z-bar FIRST, then install the Z-bar & use an open end wrench to screw the bellhousing side pivot into the bellhousing.

 

[dave dodge]

I put grease on the bellhousing side ball to hold the two half bushing shells and slid the z bar right on.

 

[elliskev2]

It's a puzzle with headers. Some painters tape on the corners of the bell crank can help minimize paint scrapes.
Side note: You did bench test you starter before you bolted it up, right?

No but was thinking the same thing before going in. I know it worked when it came out....but....

 

[elliskev2]

At least in your last/bottom picture it looks like you've got a ton of room for the Z-bar. Is there a clearance issue that's not obvious in the picture? I also have a 70 Road Runner 4spd car & I've run 3 different styles of headers and never had an issue with the clutch linkage. It always went in easy after the motor/headers were installed.

I think the only "trick" I ever used was to install the bellhousing side pivot & white bushings into the Z-bar FIRST, then install the Z-bar & use an open end wrench to screw the bellhousing side pivot into the bellhousing.

That's good to know..I've put in a lot of engines with headers but no big blocks with 4sp. What has me wondering is the rod that goes back to the fork. I may have something aligned wrong but it seems to have too much angle.

 

[elliskev2]

That's good to know..I've put in a lot of engines with headers but no big blocks with 4sp. What has me wondering is the rod that goes back to the fork. I may have something aligned wrong but it seems to have too much angle.

View attachment 429952

You can see I have the z bar pulled out from the ball mount a bit.

 

[elliskev2]

I put grease on the bellhousing side ball to hold the two half bushing shells and slid the z bar right on.

Good advice, Thanks.

 

[Daves69]

I may have something aligned wrong but it seems to have too much angle.

Is that fork on the pivot and release bearing correctly?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

That's good to know..I've put in a lot of engines with headers but no big blocks with 4sp. What has me wondering is the rod that goes back to the fork. I may have something aligned wrong but it seems to have too much angle.

View attachment 429952

Yeah, something looks off there for sure. My first guess is that the clutch fork is not setting on its pivot. 2nd guess, the fork is on the pivot, but the pivot is turned the wrong direction making the clutch fork stick out too far. 3rd guess (not likely) the Z-bar is backwards.

 

[Mick70RR]

I have a 4 speed big block with 2" Doug's headers and have plenty of clearance. The clutch fork looks a bit too long in one of your pictures. Are you sure it's engaged in the bell housing fully because if it is it may be the wrong fork for your 4 speed.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Shouldn't the clutch fork measure around 12 inches?

 

[elliskev2]

I have a 4 speed big block with 2" Doug's headers and have plenty of clearance. The clutch fork looks a bit too long in one of your pictures. Are you sure it's engaged in the bell housing fully because if it is it may be the wrong fork for your 4 speed.

I believe it is the correct one....I will have to look up what the original should be. The car has been apart for several years. It is hooked into the pivot inside the edge of the bellhousing.

 

[elliskev2]

Is that fork on the pivot and release bearing correctly?

Pulled the boot off and took a quick look. It is engaged into the pivot.

 

[elliskev2]

Shouldn't the clutch fork measure around 12 inches?[/QUOTE

Shouldn't the clutch fork measure around 12 inches?

Need to find out.

 

[elliskev2]

Thanks guys... I may have this mixed up with another 4speed I have in the shop. Question...Are they different from a small block vs. big block?

 

[5.7 hemi]

The clutch forks are different lengths and are by body if I'm remembering correctly.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I went through this with a 70 RR 383 4 speed while installing TTI headers. Fork was rubbing the top tubes, got the correct fork and bingo, it worked like it should.