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Need axle puller for '64 plymouth! Soon! Please!!

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Al K

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Well,my local auto parts store tried to acquire an old school axle puller,with a PN of C-499,as listed in my 1964 Plymouth shop manual. I say tried,as it is NLA-No Longer Available. Major setback,as I really need to change the center section. Does ANYONE out there have one of these that they might consider selling? Or,know what tool company may still manufacture it? Another forum member came through with a hub puller,so I'm hoping someone out there can help with this. Thanks folks,it is appreciated! -Al
 
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If it's a 8 3/4 shouldn't pull straight out after unbolting?
 
The 64 axle has a keyway in it.The key in the slot is stuck
 
if you cant get puller what i have dun is put car back on the floor with the nut just stared good find a few people and shake the hell out of it from side to side.you will know wen it brakes lose good luck..I Had one so bad I left the nut lose and drove the car for 3day be for it broke lose..I have even broke pullers.. again good luck..Artie.........
 
I think he's talking about yanking the axles, not the drums/hubs. Pulling the drums/hubs off the tapered axles is a trip unto itself, but pulling the actual axles is a whole 'nuther ballgame. One trick I was told was to put a box end wrench on the axle then the castle nut on. Then rap on it with a hammer to pop the axle out. I tried it last year without success - just couldn't get good leverage on it. So I skipped it and just left the axles in for now. I'm swapping in a '68 rearend this spring, and I'll want to pull my old third member, so I'm going to have to get those axles out then. Good luck, and let us know if you have success - and how you did it!

Dave
 
cant you take off the drum , bolt some thing to the lugs and fasten a slide hammer to it ? I remember my dad had a tool for a slide hammer at one time. long gone now but I remember him using it to pull axles when I was knee high to a grasshopper.
 
The lugs come off with the drum (like the front drums). All that's left is the axle. The hub can be seperated from the drum, but they're swedged together. Taking them apart can mess up either or both. But your method may work if you tried to take the axle out with the drum. But that's not the designed way, so it could goof stuff up too.
 
I just sold mine, but check ebay, and no you cant take the drums and axles out as one ...how would you get to the axle retainer bolts?????
 
5.7;I should have asked about that when I purchased the hub puller...

Hey folks,I had asked about the hubs awhile ago,and 5.7 Hemi came through with a puller for those-worked out great!

Another oddity: no endplay adjustment on the passengers side axle for pre-load. Hmm,me thinks more questions need to be asked-and answered.

Evilbay,here we come...
 
You should be able to attach a good slide hammer to the castle nut right? Or maybe remove the hub and axle retainer, put the hub back on and use the slide hammer on the lug nuts.
 
axle rose puller

assuming you havent got bunged up threads on axle. Take a spare nut and weld an attachment on to it to fit on a slide hammer. thread the nut on and start sliding.
Then pull the gears and then pull the whole rear end housing and replace with a 65 to 67, NOT a 68 + (they are wider) and make life easier for the rest of your car's life.

It is the last year of an old technology , loose it.

red
 
Another oddity: no endplay adjustment on the passengers side axle for pre-load

OK , this one I'm sure of , the end play is set using different shims behind the axle retenion piece on the drivers side. I know this because I had to make some when we added a suregrip pumpkin to my 63 Fury.

Steve
 
Here's some pics of the axle/housing ends;first 2 pics are the passenger side,and the third is the driver's side. Opinions/comments/suggestions?

100_2025.jpg

100_2028.jpg

100_2030.jpg



Well,I want the car on the road this year;I've already found a couple of major setbacks,and as it has gone "legal":(,can't say much more. Finding a 65 housing would be difficult;time to hit CL... I thought 66-7 had wider spring perches than 62-5? Need to check that;there's a rough 66 dodge not that far from me that could donate some parts. Been checking Ebay,going to hit a couple of specialty tool places;I'll let you know what transpires.

I still want to buy a puller,if someone has one to sell!
 
FWIW - the '64 B body rearend is the widest of the '60s cars. I have a '68 GTX rearend in my garage waiting to go in my '64. It's slightly narrower overall.
 
I asked the guy that helped me do mine , he said he has a slide hammer that attached to the axle threads . Pretty simple tool to make , just a rod with a hole drilled and tapped for the axle threads and a bolt on the other end to stop the weight . The shims are behind the plate with the five holes .
 
Any 68-69 b body axle will bolt right in, perches are the same distance...44 inch on center, but if memory serves, it is wider overall, so some back spacing measurements will be in order if you plan on doing a set of custom rims to get the widest tire possible to fit.
 
OK;here's where we're at...

A guy on local CL had some Mopar stuff;I inquired about a 65-up housing. A friend of his called and may have something to suit my needs. Did some checking on widths,and that may be an issue with the wheels I've got-they're 15X8" with 4-1/4 backspacing. The tires(255/70-15s) MAY hit the leaf springs with a narrower housing. I plan on running longer studs,but I'm hoping to not have to run wheel spacers. I'm also not planning on purchasing new wheels and tires and then going through the hassle of selling what I've already purchased. Believe me when I say that I do not need more setbacks with this car-I'm developing a BAD attitude about the fact that it may not see the road this year. Waiting for my lawyer to get back to me this week on the issues.

As always,thanks folks;I'll keep you informed as to what occurs. Wait 'til I hit you up for advice on fixing some of the electrical issues...
 
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