Need help from the Fiberglass crowd...

[Brandy]

Hey folks. Ghost here. I have a problem with which I need help, and or, guidance.

The quarter tail extensions on the Express ( 67 Coronet) have been modified to accept the 66 Thunderbird tail lights. However, so far, every method of bonding the new "U" channel to the pot metal extension body has failed. I have tried, so far, two part epoxy, panel bond, and expanding foam as a filler. I need this to work so I can finish the bodywork.. I'm now thinking that I need to "make" this extension out of something else besides pot metal. Like fiberglass, acrylic, plastic, aluminum or SOMETHING! Any suggestions and ideas, however wild, are cool as long as they are meant to a constructive solution of sorts. Frustration is clouding my thought process and I'm out of ideas.

Basically, I sliced the stock "U" shaped cavity, in which the stock tail lights sit, away from the outer body of the extension. This leaves the extension shell to which I need to apply the new "U" channel which is wider, top to bottom and more pointed in a "VEE" than a "U" at the outer ends. Nothing seems to stick the two pieces permanently together, the pieces being pot metal and sheet metal. Discuss please......thanks.

 

[slimt]

why dont you get the shape you require with the parts you have.. then take a fiberglass mold of it then make a new part from the mold with fiberglass? while your making the part.. you can put in the studs in the glass that bolt to your quarters.. pot metal is a strange metal and steel stock will not bind together ,,

it might take some time to make the parts.. but you have something that will work for your project..

your last picture is a good start to what you are looking for..

 

[Brandy]

Can I send you the parts, and you do it..? LOL. NO, that is the method I'm resigned to using, making a fiberglass mold of the part I have and then making the fiberglass part inside that one. I hate working with fiberglass.

 

[slimt]

When do you need these done by? Fiberglass isnt that bad. Its just get the items as close to finished as possible prior to taking a cast. Use aluminum foil tape to cover the whole out side of what you have made. Press downall the lines and then apply a light coat of bees wax mold release.

 

[Cranky]

Another way is to make the stuff out of steel.....see, I know how to help! Would hate to even try making that out of steel but I bet there's someone out there that can.

 

[slimt]

Another way is to make the stuff out of steel.....see, I know how to help! Would hate to even try making that out of steel but I bet there's someone out there that can.

yep... used to do that too.. still am when its required on the Old 50s customs.. extending quarter panels, making Cruiser skirts. doing one of a kind taillight bezels and lenses for the old girls..

I did these to this Merc Prior to this new owner out of Las Vegas buying this car.. This Merc Belonged to a friend of mine up here in Calgary, he wanted his Merc to represent who he was.. a entertainer.. .. these Musical notes are made from flat stock 22 guage .. the lenses were made from Red Plexy with the corrogate behind from ceiling fixtures for the glow through out.. so the Bulbs just would show through.

 

[slimt]

Heres the same car prior to it going a peach color , this is how I remember it. After the car was completed with the musical noted taillights and everything else you see.
The person standing behind was the owner. Al.

 

[Beekeeper]

pot metal and steel will bond together just fine with the right panel bond. I will look this evening and put you on the right stuff to get the job done.

the epoxy you need is loctite E-120HP (Hysol)
it takes 24 hours to cure but it will get it done. Same stuff used to attach the steel
glass channel run to the pot metal vent frames when restoring vent window frames.

 

[Photon440]

Something that will stick to pot metal is solder. So you could try soldering the steel pieces to the original casting. If that works for you, you could also use more solder as filler, then file and sand it smooth as needed.
Most pot metal is zinc based which melts at 786° (f), so you need a lower melting point solder such as low temp solder which flows at 430°.

You mentioned trying epoxy and it failed. What kind of epoxy? I've found this stuff to be fairly good at sticking to well roughed up metal. Always sand or file - don't sandblast!

 

[slimt]

Something that will stick to pot metal is solder. So you could try soldering the steel pieces to the original casting. If that works for you, you could also use more solder as filler, then file and sand it smooth as needed.
Most pot metal is zinc based which melts at 786° (f), so you need a lower melting point solder such as low temp solder which flows at 430°.
View attachment 842441
You mentioned trying epoxy and it failed. What kind of epoxy? I've found this stuff to be fairly good at sticking to well roughed up metal. Always sand or file - don't sandblast!
View attachment 842444

quite simular to the 3 n1 alladin rod. it worked good as well. .. had to be really careful though on the heat.. or it would melt into a ball.

 

[Photon440]

quite simular to the 3 n1 alladin rod. it worked good as well. .. had to be really careful though on the heat.. or it would melt into a ball.

Yes, very similar. But the Aladdin rod has a much higher melting point than the silver solder, almost as high as the pot metal. It is a good rod though.

 

[beanhead]

@slimt
Damn. That's nice work my friend!

 

[slimt]

@slimt
Damn. That's nice work my friend!

thank you.. it was fun to do... a challenge as well.. figuring out what he wanted ..

 

[Brandy]

Something that will stick to pot metal is solder. So you could try soldering the steel pieces to the original casting. If that works for you, you could also use more solder as filler, then file and sand it smooth as needed.
Most pot metal is zinc based which melts at 786° (f), so you need a lower melting point solder such as low temp solder which flows at 430°.
View attachment 842441
You mentioned trying epoxy and it failed. What kind of epoxy? I've found this stuff to be fairly good at sticking to well roughed up metal. Always sand or file - don't sandblast!
View attachment 842444

I actually have a stick of that!

 

[Brandy]

All good input fellas, thanks a lot. I will be out in the garage looking at this today..There is no time crunch involved. I just need them done so that I can be DONE with fooling with them and turn my attention to finishing the filler and sanding phase.

 

[Brandy]

Well here's were i'm at with this. I put two layers on and let it dry. it's hard as a rock.

 

[slimt]

Well here's were i'm at with this. I put two layers on and let it dry. it's hard as a rock.

View attachment 844130

Does it fit? You want to use that piece?

That looks good too.

 

[Brandy]

Does it fit? You want to use that piece?

That looks good too.

Gotta use it, it's what I have. I ran out of cloth, need to get another piece.

 

[slimt]

Well here's were i'm at with this. I put two layers on and let it dry. it's hard as a rock.

View attachment 844130

Gotta use it, it's what I have. I ran out of cloth, need to get another piece.

Sand a shape to what you need. It looks like it could work fine.

 

[Brandy]

Sand a shape to what you need. It looks like it could work fine.

I'm going to finish it by placing two strips on the one end there that has masking tape around it. Then I will place filler on it and see how it looks after contouring before I decide on using it. Stay tuned. I'm not doing the second one until I finish this one and decide.