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NEED HELP: Stalls in gear when hot

72 charger

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72 charger with a 1969, 383 727 combo. Have a holly 600 on it engine trans and carb all fresh rebuilds. Car runs great but when it gets up to running temp if in gear, drive or reverse, it will die unless you give it a good bit of throttle. I've tried wrapping aluminum heat tape on the steel lines in the engine bay but still did it after 10 mins or so of driving while sitting at a stop sign. I check tranny fluid level added to the fill line carb has been "professionally" installed a shroud and trans line coolers last year and still does the same thing I've hardly had the car out this year because i cannot solve this issue could use any suggestions :sad10:
 
Have you messed with your idle screw or idle mix screws? I have a 400 and I ended up putting a holley heat shield on there to prevent heat soak/vapor lock and it works great. Is your timing good?
 
Timing should be fine. Had it converted to electronic ignition and tuned all at once so carb should be in check as well.
 
you need to find out if it is a fuel or ignition issue.run it till it stalls and jump out.actuate the throttle and see if the squirters in the carb give a good steady flow of fuel.if they do you could have a part of you ignition breaking down.if the flow is sporattic or not there,its a fuel issue.
 
Usually this is caused by a too lean condition. Check for intake and carb air leaks at base of carb. My Holley carbed 451 was stalling a lot on idle and low speed. Found out the choke pull off vacumn port was leaking air directly into the manifold. The choke mechanism had been removed, which left the port uncovered. We plugged the small hole, and now it works great!
 
i had the same problem in my '93 pontiac grand prix. Took it to multiple shops and for the longest time couldnt figure it out. But to make a long story short the problem ended up being the torque converter went bad. Replaced it and it never did that again. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks all for input. Right before I stored the car for the winter I think I found the problem, which is basically my own fault. After countless hours tons of money multiple upgrades including new mech fuel pump adding a electronic fuel pump electronic ignition 2 trips to local "mopar" tech to set carb and timing, we finally figured out the problem. One day at the guys shop i have tune my carb we tested the alt for amps under load of lights and not the voltage output from alt etc etc. and found no issues so heads scratching he said he would like to actually get the car into his shop sometime that week to look at it for probably the 3rd time over the coarse of a year for this problem. On the way out of his drive way it started to do its crazy non sense stalling etc. he just starred at me as i was trying to get the car moving down the street. He stopped me on the way out and told me "on a whim how long ago was it you checked the plugs?" i said probably never since they are brand new and car isnt a year old with probably only a few hundred miles on it if that. He told me just to be safe check the plugs and if your not sure about the gaps etc bring them to me and we will look at them and label what cylinder they came out of. A bit skeptical i went home took out the plugs checked them all one by one for gap and carbon buildup labeled them with no issue until i got to the second to last plug the #6; when i pulled the plug the gap on it had to be no more than like .005. So somehow must have knocked the side of the block installing the plug and thus leading it to not fire the mixture right sometimes. The only reasoning we can come up with for the dying when hot and in gear is that under the weight of torque converter and when the plug wouldn't fire mixture right the piston weight it made the crank come to a dead stop. So I went ahead and installed all brand new re gapped champions and the car ran great before i put it into storage but ill have to confirm no more gremlins this spring!
 
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