need help where idler arm

[bigmanjbmopar]

Need help with front suspension drag link hits 7qt pan?

installed solid sleeves and bigger tie rod ends now drag link hits oil pan and tie rod and hits torsion bar. Do I need A different idler arm? The shop guy is telling me he thinks the idler arm needs to drop down more? wtf? Called PST to find out and of course like most anyone would think new solid sleeves and tie rod ends shouldn't have any effect of the drag link? But that is what he is telling me.

Going to take pics tomorrow to find out just wtf happened, either he installed the drag link backwards, or the stock set up was always like it is now and I have been lucky so for as it has just missed the 7 qt oil pan or my car has the wrong from parts on it and now it's just coming to light while trying to put bigger tie rods on hmmm just not sure and was real surprised to hear the call. But he is saying it needs a "longer idler arm" or the stock one needs to be modified?

Does anyone have a diagram showing the stock set up?


Oh yeah also my front sway bar brackets were bent to **** like the PO hit curb stops all day long or something so new bushings wont fit, what a pitta. so the shop was trying to modify those to get them to fit, wtf? Getting new AM brackets since now the stock ones are all f#$%ed up how is something so simple turning into such ****?

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Bump

 

[WileE]

The pitman arm moves all the linkage. The idler just pivots to keep it level. The pitman arm and the idler arm should be parallel. Tie rods only connect the centerlink to the lower arms. I sense mis-installation.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

yeah me too hoping just a simple mistake.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

I found some before pics when they were doing the PST parts the fist time.

 

[PST]

Here is a diagram bigmanjbmopar if I can be of any assistants please let me know.

Thanks
James

 

[GearAddict]

I would use the the bottom of the pitman arm as a reference, assuming you did not replace it... then check to see that the bottom of the idler arm is on the same plane (as others mentioned)

Assuming everything was good before, the pitman arm wasn't changed and the idler is on the same plane as the pitman arm, then everything should line up just fine. Your shop guy should only be saying the idler arm is off if it is not on the same plane, you would see this easily where the centerlink goes under the pan as it would be closer to one side of the pan versus the other.

as far as the tie rods are concerned, they should clear the torsion bar easily and in your 2nd pic, it looks like they have plenty of clearance, but maybe it's just the camera angle. however the one that goes into the center link is 180 deg off.... it should go into the centerlink from the top

Just re-read.. the pics are before..with the original idler arm installed? If so...did they mount the centerlink upside-down? It is correct in the picture, but if that is a before pic, that's the first thing I would check...it will move the centerlink an 1" or so closer to the underside of the pan which would cause it not to fit.

- - - Updated - - -

it looks like you could rotate the centerlink 180" (swap left and right side) and get more clearance to the underside of the pan, but you might hit elsewhere.

- - - Updated - - -

Ha! I just read your other post showing you figured it out.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Check this new thread


http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...learned-time-Moving-suspension-thread-to-here

I would use the the bottom of the pitman arm as a reference, assuming you did not replace it... then check to see that the bottom of the idler arm is on the same plane (as others mentioned)

Assuming everything was good before, the pitman arm wasn't changed and the idler is on the same plane as the pitman arm, then everything should line up just fine. Your shop guy should only be saying the idler arm is off if it is not on the same plane, you would see this easily where the centerlink goes under the pan as it would be closer to one side of the pan versus the other.

as far as the tie rods are concerned, they should clear the torsion bar easily and in your 2nd pic, it looks like they have plenty of clearance, but maybe it's just the camera angle. however the one that goes into the center link is 180 deg off.... it should go into the centerlink from the top

Just re-read.. the pics are before..with the original idler arm installed? If so...did they mount the centerlink upside-down? It is correct in the picture, but if that is a before pic, that's the first thing I would check...it will move the centerlink an 1" or so closer to the underside of the pan which would cause it not to fit.

- - - Updated - - -

it looks like you could rotate the centerlink 180" (swap left and right side) and get more clearance to the underside of the pan, but you might hit elsewhere.

- - - Updated - - -

Ha! I just read your other post showing you figured it out.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Here is a diagram bigmanjbmopar if I can be of any assistants please let me know.

Thanks
James

James I do need some help, I need the part # for the sway bar bushings 7/8" bar with brackets. Also can you tell what the correct way to set up the basic suspension with the solid sleeves? I mean is there a benefit to having the larger tie rod ends? is there any thing different than stock set up adjustments with these? My shop got it real close but it feels loose at high speeds. Almost like was riding the high seas after hitting a small bump in the road at 90. The car does lift and pull hard tonight it seemed like it lifted more than usual but the front seemed to get a little squirrely.

Any special cast / camber, or toe in / out measurements I should b using over stock?

Thinking of switching to the bilstiens too any discounts?

 

[PST]

To start do you have the print out of what your shop set the spec to on the alignment of the car? If they used the factory spec that wouldn't work because the original specs were done using bias ply tires. My recommendations would be Caster close as you can to 1 degree positive ( this will help with wheel response and handling) Camber at or as close to 0 as possible a -.5 degree is acceptable. For the toe you can you use the factory specs.

Thanks
James