Need Help with pulling out axles.

[superbeedave]

Hi all,
I have gear oil leaking out of my right rear axle and it appears that maybe i need to pull the axle and replace something! I have never screwed with rear ends before so I am asking for some guidance at doing this. Can i just remove the axle or do I have to pull out the pumpkin first? This is on my 69 Superbee and it is not the original rearend and it is an open with 3.23's. And I am pretty sure it has no sure grip in it either. I did notice last night that I was finally able to put a dial indicator to check my end play and it was up to .05 which the book calls for .008-.018. I was wondering if that is why it started leaking? So i went ahead and pull the nut and tightened up the adjusters to where I now have .008 end play. I know I am reaching but before i pull the axle out I am going to fill it back up with 90w oil and see if it still leaks. Any help or a great video on how to do this would be very much appreciated. Thanks, Dave

 

[Yatzee]

Hi all,
I have gear oil leaking out of my right rear axle and it appears that maybe i need to pull the axle and replace something! I have never screwed with rear ends before so I am asking for some guidance at doing this. Can i just remove the axle or do I have to pull out the pumpkin first? This is on my 69 Superbee and it is not the original rearend and it is an open with 3.23's. And I am pretty sure it has no sure grip in it either. I did notice last night that I was finally able to put a dial indicator to check my end play and it was up to .05 which the book calls for .008-.018. I was wondering if that is why it started leaking? So i went ahead and pull the nut and tightened up the adjusters to where I now have .008 end play. I know I am reaching but before i pull the axle out I am going to fill it back up with 90w oil and see if it still leaks. Any help or a great video on how to do this would be very much appreciated. Thanks, Dave

You'd best pull the axle and replace the seal as they don't magically repair themselves. You will have to remove 4 bolts according to the FSM to remove the axle. A slide puller is best for this job but barring that I have seen a wheel put back on and hit from the inside with a 2x4. Crude but it gets the job done with no damage. An old rim with no tire on it works well too. Maybe you get lucky and just pull it out by hand. You'll be replacing the inner seal only if fluid leaks by. It will have to be pried out and a new one pounded in making sure the lip of the seal is facing the right direction. While out, regrease the axle bearing. And while your back there check the axle vent for proper operation.

 

[Darter6]

Check to make sure it's not the wheel cylinder leaking first.Just a thought.

 

[AR67GTX]

If your played around with the pass side adjuster then you are already familiar with the bolts that secure the axle and bearing retainer to the housing. You just need to remove those bolts and the axle should just slide out. The axle retainer gaskets and brake backing plate seal may take some searching to find and you will need them in addition to the axle housing seal.

 

[superbeedave]

Thanks guys for all the info. Sounds like a not too tough of a job. I will say one thing about the leak is there was so much end play that the other side was also leaking oil out just not as much. One last question, Where can I buy the whole brake shoe kit with all the hardware for the brake job? Thanks, Dave

 

[Fran Blacker]

After you remove the bolts that hold the axle in put the brake drum on backwards and put on the lug nuts flat side in. The lugs nuts should be 5/6turns on, use the brake drum as a slide hammer. 3 or 4 good slams axle should be out.

 

[Yatzee]

Hi all,
I have gear oil leaking out of my right rear axle and it appears that maybe i need to pull the axle and replace something! I have never screwed with rear ends before so I am asking for some guidance at doing this. Can i just remove the axle or do I have to pull out the pumpkin first? This is on my 69 Superbee and it is not the original rearend and it is an open with 3.23's. And I am pretty sure it has no sure grip in it either. I did notice last night that I was finally able to put a dial indicator to check my end play and it was up to .05 which the book calls for .008-.018. I was wondering if that is why it started leaking? So i went ahead and pull the nut and tightened up the adjusters to where I now have .008 end play. I know I am reaching but before i pull the axle out I am going to fill it back up with 90w oil and see if it still leaks. Any help or a great video on how to do this would be very much appreciated. Thanks, Dave

Brake shoes and hardware kits try Napa, Car Quest or Rock Auto.

 

[moes]

After you remove the bolts that hold the axle in put the brake drum on backwards and put on the lug nuts flat side in. The lugs nuts should be 5/6turns on, use the brake drum as a slide hammer. 3 or 4 good slams axle should be out.

here is a video that I found that will help you

 

[Cornpatch MO]

You'd best pull the axle and replace the seal as they don't magically repair themselves. You will have to remove 4 bolts according to the FSM to remove the axle. A slide puller is best for this job but barring that I have seen a wheel put back on and hit from the inside with a 2x4. Crude but it gets the job done with no damage. An old rim with no tire on it works well too. Maybe you get lucky and just pull it out by hand. You'll be replacing the inner seal only if fluid leaks by. It will have to be pried out and a new one pounded in making sure the lip of the seal is facing the right direction. While out, regrease the axle bearing. And while your back there check the axle vent for proper operation.

If the inner seal is ok, diff lube should not get into the bearing area and then leak out....................................MO

 

[69L48Z27]

I thought I had an inner seal leak and it turned out that the wheel bearing grease on the bearing had liquified and ran out into the brakes. I changed inner seals but half way through the job I discovered it wasn't gear oil leaking.

 

[Daves69]

When you pull the axle want to be ready for a few things.
The bearing possibly hanging in the bore.
The retainer flange hanging on the studs.
Gear lube draining as you remove the axle.

 

[superbeedave]

Thanks for all the help guys! I got both axles out yesterday. The reversed drum idea worked great. Two good tugs and out it came. Everything seemed to looked pretty good as far as the bearings and the seal I am replacing. Id say it took a whole ten minutes to do each
side. I have both seals and gaskets along with new shoes and hardware for the rear brake job. I picked everything off Ebay from Rick-mopars in believe in New York. I have found a few NOS seals on Ebay and that all the new ones don't have the hard rubber that contacts the collar on the axle shaft like the NOS do. I guess this isn't a problem! I am going to start a new post and ask where you would buy your rear brake drums from. Thanks again, Dave

 

[Erik Morris]

You'd best pull the axle and replace the seal as they don't magically repair themselves. You will have to remove 4 bolts according to the FSM to remove the axle. A slide puller is best for this job but barring that I have seen a wheel put back on and hit from the inside with a 2x4. Crude but it gets the job done with no damage. An old rim with no tire on it works well too. Maybe you get lucky and just pull it out by hand. You'll be replacing the inner seal only if fluid leaks by. It will have to be pried out and a new one pounded in making sure the lip of the seal is facing the right direction. While out, regrease the axle bearing. And while your back there check the axle vent for proper operation.

Found your post while researching an 8 3/4 axle re-seal. Both axles and chunk removed, cleaned up. Inner oil seals replaced with no issues. Any suggestions on how to regrease the wheel bearings while they remain on the axle? The removed axles and bearing hardware are all in great shape, I'm looking to avoid replacing anything that doesn't actually need it. All old grease was removed by soaking in solvent, and I've been hand greasing the bearings but don't know how to determine when all of the voids are filled.

 

[SlinktRR]

https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-S...ocphy=9027730&hvtargid=pla-995160131971&psc=1

We use these luer lock syringes in the lab and you can use it for applying your wheel bearing grease of choice into the axle bearings.

 

[Dave6T4]

Rock Auto for brake drums.