Need Knowledge! 64 Polara NSS Set-up!

[dvw]

This is out 2023 NMCA N/SS rules. As long as it retains the stock steering box and torsion bars it fits the rules. If it has a rack and pinion and/or coil overs it will not be legal.

STEERING
(NSS Classes) OEM steering mandatory.
(F/X Classes) OEM or aftermarket steering in stock location mandatory.

SUSPENSION
FRONT SUSPENSION: Stock front suspension as factory-designed required. Aftermarket direct replacement suspension components including tubular A-arms permitted: However, overall design and function as factory produced must be retained.

Doug

 

[Ricks427]

This is out 2023 NMCA N/SS rules. As long as it retains the stock steering box and torsion bars it fits the rules. If it has a rack and pinion and/or coil overs it will not be legal.

STEERING
(NSS Classes) OEM steering mandatory.
(F/X Classes) OEM or aftermarket steering in stock location mandatory.

SUSPENSION
FRONT SUSPENSION: Stock front suspension as factory-designed required. Aftermarket direct replacement suspension components including tubular A-arms permitted: However, overall design and function as factory produced must be retained.

Doug

Perfect I'm running stock manual box and torsion bars! Thanks!

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

I am late to the party, but can't stress enough like others have already mentioned replacing the reared with a Dana 60 or a 9" Ford.

However since it's a NSS a Dana is the best period choice and the lowest cost option. I have a Dana 60 in my 63 and can tell you that it will twist a 30-spline axle foot braking, so make

sure you install 35-spline axles from the start, a lesson I learned 2nd time out. Actually building a Dana 60 is not that expensive especially if you sell off the 8-3/4 before you blow it up. I

buy and run OEM 4.56 Dana gears because I feel they are better quality than anything else made. Spool, Axles, and a used gear you'll be under a $1000.

Tom

 

[Ricks427]

I am late to the party, but can't stress enough like others have already mentioned replacing the reared with a Dana 60 or a 9" Ford.

However since it's a NSS a Dana is the best period choice and the lowest cost option. I have a Dana 60 in my 63 and can tell you that it will twist a 30-spline axle foot braking, so make

sure you install 35-spline axles from the start, a lesson I learned 2nd time out. Actually building a Dana 60 is not that expensive especially if you sell off the 8-3/4 before you blow it up. I

buy and run OEM 4.56 Dana gears because I feel they are better quality than anything else made. Spool, Axles, and a used gear you'll be under a $1000.

Tom

Your right! I'm in the hunt for a dana.. Thanks for the info.

 

[LemonWedge]

I’m a happy Calvert customer, but for a dedicated race setup, I like the ladder bar suggestion. relatively Cheap, reliable, and effective.
Wishing you luck with the 8-3/4, but skeptical. The chunk still has value that can offset the cost of the Dana, UNTIL it’s a gravel box (DAMHIK).

 

[dvw]

On another note. If your 8 3/4 has 35 spline axles they can be reused in a Dana. But since a Dana uses an off set pinion, the housing ends up being 1" narrower. So if you have 1/2" per side extra clearance on the inside it'll work. Caltracs work pretty decent. But if you are swapping a new housing anyway I'd go ladder bar. If you can do your own welding the cost is about the same. Ladder bars are a touch lighter. And if you ever turn the power up you'll be happy you did. More than a few N/SS guys switched after having Caltracs. With more power, Caltracs can be difficult to control wheelstands. We are going to face this with my sons car this spring. It's a Caltrac car that was SB turbo powered with a 3.54 gear. Now 485" BB with a 4.10 gear. Good shocks on the front are a must with this style combo.
Doug

 

[Ricks427]

Great Info! My 8-3/4 are 30 spine dr diff's so they will be sold off. What's the preferred Gear ratio running the dana, 29.5" tire, Dont want to twist the 493 to much. I'm happy with Mid 10's and not breaking anything..

 

[dvw]

Great Info! My 8-3/4 are 30 spine dr diff's so they will be sold off. What's the preferred Gear ratio running the dana, 29.5" tire, Dont want to twist the 493 to much. I'm happy with Mid 10's and not breaking anything..

4.10 is plenty. To be honest an 8 3/4 will probably go a fair amount of time running mid 10's footbraking. We ran one in th eturbo car. Didn't brak until we tried 4000rpm@22psi on radials. Even then is didn't break any teeth. Sheared the pinion. We've run high 10- low 11 second cars for years using 8 3/4. all 3500lbs or heavier. None of us has broke one. Now a low 10 - high 9? looking for trouble.
Doug

 

[Tintoy35]

Like Doug said try what you have. If you have the extra money go for the Dana. My street rod (3200 lb ) has taken teeth off 2 set of ring gears and destroyed 1 center section by pinion and broke the bearing cap. 29 x 10.5 tire leaving at 3000 rpm ladder bar car with 1.43 60 ft 400 ci tunnel ram 727 trans 10.60

 

[PROSTOCKTOM]

Great Info! My 8-3/4 are 30 spine dr diff's so they will be sold off. What's the preferred Gear ratio running the dana, 29.5" tire, Dont want to twist the 493 to much. I'm happy with Mid 10's and not breaking anything..

I run a 4.56 on the 1/8 mile with 29.5 x 10.5W I have had everything in mine from a 4.10 to a 4.88 and the 4.56 works best with the torque convertor I have.

If I were you I would use a 4.56 and see how the car reacts. On another car I have that has 26" x 8 slicks I used a 3.73 and it just didn't like them footbraking. I switched to a 4.10 and

the car ran the exact time, but it became deadly consistent on the tree and went from not going rounds to going to a runner up first weekend out with the 4.10's.

It's all about getting the proper combination and ever part works different than it does on someone else's combination and the torque convertor is a huge piece of the pie

Tom

 

[Rebelrouser]

Ok Guys Need a little InSite from the guys that have been there done that!

I'm currently working a 64 Polara setting it up to go NSS racing and only using the foot brake. 440 Stroked to 493 (700hp) with PB 727 with 5200 stall. All Steel Car w/ full interior and 8-point cage.

I'm currently have questions regarding rear suspension setup.

Current Setup: 8 3/4 With Back Brace, Stock 67 B Body Length, 4:30 Gear w/ Spool, Dr Diff Axels. Springs are moved into the frame, car has Super Stock Springs (3412003/3412002), Pinion Snubber, Calvert Stocks. Running 15x10 5.5bs rim and MT slicks 29.5x10.5.

What would you change? I believe the springs are A body?

Tell me what I'm doing wrong!!

Lose the superstock springs, go with caltracs and their mono-leaf spring. Or just go big and do a 4-link. Dana 60 would be a better long term axle. The 8 3/4 will eventually break. Picture of my 64 NSS car which is for sale.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Lose the superstock springs, go with caltracs and their mono-leaf spring. Or just go big and do a 4-link. Dana 60 would be a better long term axle. The 8 3/4 will eventually break. Picture of my 64 NSS car which is for sale.

View attachment 1425172

I preemptively sold my 410 Richmond geared, Moroso axle 8-3/4 in perfect working condition before diving any deeper than 10.90's in a strictly foot braking street combo. I then used those funds towards a Dr Diff D60 with all the right stuff.

 

[Ricks427]

I preemptively sold my 410 Richmond geared, Moroso axle 8-3/4 in perfect working condition before diving any deeper than 10.90's in a strictly foot braking street combo. I then used those funds towards a Dr Diff D60 with all the right stuff.

Agreed! My S60 has been ordered.

 

[LemonWedge]

for reference:

I run a 4.56 gear with MT PBR 29.5x10.5’s; they measure 30” in dia. I run a 9-1/2” converter that flashes to about 4000. Running bottom 11’s, I trapped at roughly 6750.

I‘ll be in a new motor, running considerably faster this year and anticipate I may find myself in the 7000 rpm range. Once I put my eyeballs on a few runs, I’ll decide whether or not to move back to 4.30’s.