Try googling the part #, or run the vin at the dealer. Possibly online somewhere too
Need opinions with Dakota fuel pump purchase...
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33 IMP
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Buy locally. Buy one of each, return the wrong one.
Detective D
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Couple things to do-
I don;t think it will matter what pump you buy. NEVER EVER buy a "lifetime warranty part" though. Buy a quality name but don't pay premium because it probably came from Mexico instead of China anyway. Try to look and see if any of the brands claim OEM manufacturer. They are probably actually the OEM manufacturer and may have the original tooling and specs. Even Dorman does a bit of OEM, so don't rule out house brands. Need to research.
Don;t let your Dakota go below 1/4 tank of gas. Half tank is better. Modern pumps are so weaksauce that the first micro-air bubble that goes through from the fuel sloshing around as you move or corner with a low level tank will cavitate the pump enough to harm it.
Seafoam for several tanks. Then run whatever you want, and note the MGP. On my 5.2 magnum the seafoam increases the MGP enough it is cheaper to put it in every tank then not.
You can;t change the filter on my 98. because it is part of the pump. So is a check valve, a bypass valve, and the gauge sending unit. How nice of Chrysler to force you to replace all of it when one component of it is bad, even just the filter! I am not sure if your 2002 is like that or not. This is why I recommend keeping the tank on the high side of half. Avoid all risk of cavitation.
My pump went bad and I had zero time to fix it last summer, so off to my local mechanic buddy and his lift it went. It got a NAPA gold or equiv. from across the street. It is already weaker then it was new. Not impressed. Mine is a lot easier to drop the tank then what you have, fortuneatly.
I don;t think it will matter what pump you buy. NEVER EVER buy a "lifetime warranty part" though. Buy a quality name but don't pay premium because it probably came from Mexico instead of China anyway. Try to look and see if any of the brands claim OEM manufacturer. They are probably actually the OEM manufacturer and may have the original tooling and specs. Even Dorman does a bit of OEM, so don't rule out house brands. Need to research.
Don;t let your Dakota go below 1/4 tank of gas. Half tank is better. Modern pumps are so weaksauce that the first micro-air bubble that goes through from the fuel sloshing around as you move or corner with a low level tank will cavitate the pump enough to harm it.
Seafoam for several tanks. Then run whatever you want, and note the MGP. On my 5.2 magnum the seafoam increases the MGP enough it is cheaper to put it in every tank then not.
You can;t change the filter on my 98. because it is part of the pump. So is a check valve, a bypass valve, and the gauge sending unit. How nice of Chrysler to force you to replace all of it when one component of it is bad, even just the filter! I am not sure if your 2002 is like that or not. This is why I recommend keeping the tank on the high side of half. Avoid all risk of cavitation.
My pump went bad and I had zero time to fix it last summer, so off to my local mechanic buddy and his lift it went. It got a NAPA gold or equiv. from across the street. It is already weaker then it was new. Not impressed. Mine is a lot easier to drop the tank then what you have, fortuneatly.
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Well Guys, seems the fuel pump replacement was just the start to my troubles with this long time sitting truck. The rats/chimpmonks were very busy converting the engine compartment to their new home. I removed massive nests in both front fenders and fan shroud area. They ate, and I mean consumed, the wiring to both headlight assemblies. I mean not only chewed off the insulation, they ate the copper wires also. They ate the wiper motor harness so close to the plug connector that I can't splice it, gotta hit the salvage yard next week for some harness wiring.
I noticed their nest and storing of pecans and acorns under the plastic cowling at the base of the windshield and removed it for cleaning. It is a big cavity going under the windshield/dash and was stuffed full of nesting. There is a large opening in there above the glove compartment box which I assume is the air intake for the A/C system and I cannot get in there to clean from the top. Is their an accessible way from the inside. Is there a cabin filter for this 2002 model truck? Of course all that stinks from rat poop and Im wondering if the a/c coil and heater core are blocked and is it cleanable some how. Any advice on how to proceed .
Its in great condition and we want it usable again and hopefully not too smelly, thanks.
I noticed their nest and storing of pecans and acorns under the plastic cowling at the base of the windshield and removed it for cleaning. It is a big cavity going under the windshield/dash and was stuffed full of nesting. There is a large opening in there above the glove compartment box which I assume is the air intake for the A/C system and I cannot get in there to clean from the top. Is their an accessible way from the inside. Is there a cabin filter for this 2002 model truck? Of course all that stinks from rat poop and Im wondering if the a/c coil and heater core are blocked and is it cleanable some how. Any advice on how to proceed .
Its in great condition and we want it usable again and hopefully not too smelly, thanks.
Damn rodents. Their teeth keep growing so they chew to keep them worn down. Soy based wiring insulation isn't helping the issue. 
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bought mine for the (reman) engine/trans.......it was hit in the front, but too nice not too fix...... I love my Dakota, great little truck!
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I had mice in my heater core box on my 1993.
Used a hole saw right from the passenger compartment.
It was kinda risky because I could have put a hole in the core. But I got lucky.
I just made a black sheet metal patch and covered the hole after I cleaned it out.
Used a hole saw right from the passenger compartment.
It was kinda risky because I could have put a hole in the core. But I got lucky.
I just made a black sheet metal patch and covered the hole after I cleaned it out.
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Detective D
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That is some bad news.
I doubt there is a cabin filter unless Chrysler updated the dash design before the body update in 04, which seems unlikely.
The way to replace the heater core is to remove the dash. Like basically most/all of it. It is a tediuos job, but not difficult really. This is how you will want to go about making sure it is clean.
I would do it. Then, I would pull the heater core while you have it there. If it has any corrosion from the rodents, new one. Check to see if it is easy to flush. Yes? might be OK. No? new one.
While you are in there you may want to check any bulbs you come across for replacement. Some do LEDs, personally as I get older I grow to despise the LEDs and miss the old amber colored normal bulbs more and more. Better for your eyes.
Anyway, I knew a guy that did this job on a durango that had the same issues you did. He also found besides the nest material that the heat shielding/etc "plastic-y thin stuff" was degraded. He removed some but not all, and then got to live with little bits of it blowing out the dash vents after about a year. So when you run into that, make sure it is pristine otherwise replace/remove. Well, sort of everything you run into doing that job replace if it is suspect, you won't want to do it again any time soon. Not trying to make it sound worse then it is, it is just a multi-day after work/multi weekend type of job if you want to keep your sanity. Take pictures lol.
I reccomend doing this because the last thing you want is for the interior to smell mouse-y when you turn the heat or AC on. It is a big job recovering things from rodents.
Keep in mind as you are doing this adventure, that they don't, and can't,(EPA) so they won't- ever make anything like this again. The Dakota I mean. Even if they do it will weigh at least 1000lbs more and be full of computers. These trucks, I have never met a single person in my life that did not like the one they had, and most regret selling or not buying a second one if the first went to the scrap. I know two people that put nearly 400k miles on theirs, 318 in both. 2 transmissions, but original engine.
On the subject of interior, if you want to spend some time scrubbing it up/detailing, I can't say enough good things about Griot's Garage interior cleaner. That stuff, a soft bristle brush for the dash and headliner, a course bristle brush to scrub cloth seats and carpet, the interior will be as close to new as it could be after. Get a lot of cloth rags to wipe up the gross stuff the cleaner scrubs off/out of the materials. Chrysler did a nice job on the interior quality of these trucks, the materials are easy to detail.
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Oh man, don't we just love the joys of mechanician, so I get a Delphi pump from Rockauto and it looks good, right height, size, connection plug, happy I got the right replacement part the first time. Get her installed, 8 gallons fresh gas and spin her over, and no fire up. Dang. Pull the Schrader valve out of the fuel log and straight wire power to the pump and no pump. Disconnet power plug at the pump and have a full 12.8 volts, rats, bad brand new pump motor. That's what I get for not putting some test voltage on the pump PRIOR to installation. Got a new pump assembly on the way again from Rockauto and now I get to drain the tank, pull the tank and do it all again. ha ha Dontcha just love it when some jobs are so much fun you get to do it again.....
Did you check ground continuity?
I agree. No ground would do it.
Maybe the other pump was still good... I hate to say it.
33 IMP
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That truly sucks. Your last sentence needs a big red X!
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Power and ground in the harness at the pump is fine, it's the pump or wiring ing in the motor/pump assembly that is bad. I got it out today and put 12 volts directly to the pump leads, no pump action. Rockauto says "we don't want the bad pump back, but hang onto it a couple of weeks in case we do". We all know the postal services do not want anything that smells of gas to be sent through the mail, so we will see if they want to send a plane or truck for it..ha ha
Maybe a drone now who knows
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Okay Guys, got the replacement for the new replacement fuel pump assembly, stuck it in, I did do a bump test of the motor prior to install this time, five gallons of gas and hit the start. Fired right up in few seconds of cranking. Lesson learned, just cause its brand new does not always ensure a part will work.....pretest when possible....
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Pretest everything electrical.
khryslerkid
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Just did a new throttle body on a 2016 jeep. Went to learn it after installation and it smoked! Had to order another.
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