Need pins to mate with gauge connector

[OneWheelPeel]

Ok got the following in the mail today:
62820-1 : Crimp Wire Pins, Tabs & Ferrules

Did a test fit and in some its the right amount of tightness, in others its a hotdog in a hallway, but someone has mangled my factory connector a bitt, not all of the female spades are round anymore. Someone was probably chasing a poor contact by squeezing them.

Seeing that I question my motivation to preserve that connector instead of just cutting and splicing directly to the wire. If I ever go back to the stock cluster (which needs a lot of repair/resto) it would be foolish to plug it in to the abused OG wiring.

 

[RJRENTON]

Ok got the following in the mail today:
62820-1 : Crimp Wire Pins, Tabs & Ferrules

Did a test fit and in some its the right amount of tightness, in others its a hotdog in a hallway, but someone has mangled my factory connector a bitt, not all of the female spades are round anymore. Someone was probably chasing a poor contact by squeezing them.

Seeing that I question my motivation to preserve that connector instead of just cutting and splicing directly to the wire. If I ever go back to the stock cluster (which needs a lot of repair/resto) it would be foolish to plug it in to the abused OG wiring.

A question out of curiosity.......what exactly does this mean???......" in others its a hotdog in a hallway",.....strange analogy.....must be a local colloquial saying.....
BOB RENTON

 

[dadsbee]

 

[BigFlo]

I work for Molex. Here is a 0.093” male pin below. Plenty of inventory at
Mouser and Digikey. Unless you have the proper crimp tool, these are prone to have problems. There are two crimp areas and both are important: the smaller crimp is for the copper conductor and the larger crimp is for the wire insulation.
The quality of the copper crimp is important for electrical contact. You can solder this area if you want but take care not to melt the insulation. The insulation crimp is for durability/strain relief to keep strain off the copper crimp. Both are important in vibration environments like vehicles.
Mill max is a good product and good option as they are made to solder - you don’t need a crimp tool. They don’t have an insulation crimp so you should use shrink tubing to cover the insulation and the back of the pin for strain relief.

 

[OneWheelPeel]

A question out of curiosity.......what exactly does this mean???......" in others its a hotdog in a hallway",.....strange analogy.....must be a local colloquial saying.....
BOB RENTON

An expression meaning inserting something into a hole that is too loose for it, often used in vulgar sexual terms.

 

[OneWheelPeel]

I work for Molex. Here is a 0.093” male pin below. Plenty of inventory at
Mouser and Digikey. Unless you have the proper crimp tool, these are prone to have problems. There are two crimp areas and both are important: the smaller crimp is for the copper conductor and the larger crimp is for the wire insulation.
The quality of the copper crimp is important for electrical contact. You can solder this area if you want but take care not to melt the insulation. The insulation crimp is for durability/strain relief to keep strain off the copper crimp. Both are important in vibration environments like vehicles.
Mill max is a good product and good option as they are made to solder - you don’t need a crimp tool. They don’t have an insulation crimp so you should use shrink tubing to cover the insulation and the back of the pin for strain relief.

View attachment 1796623

I had already ordered a ratcheting crimper before you wrote that reply and it arrived about an hour ago. I had to give it a quick try and first attempt looked like an almost OEM crimp. Even if I skip using the pins I think my electrical connector game just went up a notch since I also bought a variety pack of molex type connectors from 2 to 6 pin.

 

[BigFlo]

The ratcheting crimper is key. Making sure the jaw size is correct for the AWG of the wire is obviously critical. When the jaw and the terminal are designed to work together, the individual strands of wire fuse together under the pressure of the ratcheting and it creates a gas tight seal in the crimp area. The generic ‘scissor’ type crimpers are worthless for this type of crimp terminal.

 

[OneWheelPeel]

The ratcheting crimper is key. Making sure the jaw size is correct for the AWG of the wire is obviously critical. When the jaw and the terminal are designed to work together, the individual strands of wire fuse together under the pressure of the ratcheting and it creates a gas tight seal in the crimp area. The generic ‘scissor’ type crimpers are worthless for this type of crimp terminal.

I made up a plug with the new crimper and terminals I received today, I should have got that set up years ago. So much nicer and even easier to use, a win/win.