New brake install

[5.7 hemi]

Got the kit from Pirate Jack, power booster, mc, spindles, rotors etc. Bench bled the mc, bled the lines, no pedal, but if I pump 3-6 times I get pedal. So I change mc with one (new) for a 70 Challenger RT with front disc’s. Bench bled it, bled the lines, still no damn pedal!

I find it hard to believe that 2 mc are bad, so what could it be? The rear brakes are new everything so is the front. Could it be the combination valve that is factory to the car which was 4 wheel manual drum?

I’m getting to point that I’m ready to give up! Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[khryslerkid]

How's the lenth of the rod in the booster/mc? Too short, too long? I've heard of this on several occasions when doing upgrades.

Bleeders on top of the front calipers?

 

[junior340]

Caliper bleeders on the top?

 

[5.7 hemi]

Yes, bleeders on top.

Haven’t tried to adjust the booster rod.

When I crack the lines to try and gravity bleed, I’m not getting fluid out of the rear but the front will.

 

[khryslerkid]

Yes, bleeders on top.

Haven’t tried to adjust the booster rod.

When I crack the lines to try and gravity bleed, I’m not getting fluid out of the rear but the front will.

Get a helper and do it old school. The gravity bleeding might not be getting all the air out.

No helper? Do it my way. Keep the end of the hose in fluid. Break the bleeder loose, push the pedal to the floor once, tighten the bleeded.

Right rear
Left rear
Right front
Left front

 

[texas69bee]

You need to switch the distribution valve out for a proportioning valve.

 

[khryslerkid]

Just caught the part about no fluid to the rear...
If it has the block with a piston in it, it could be stuck to one side blocking the rear lines. The piston can be manually centered. If it's just a empty block than you shouldn't have to do anything with it.

Or replace it with an adjustable one. Or eliminate altogether. Most MCs apply pressure to the front brakes first, all on their own. How many times have I've heard of someone useing an adjustable valve and didn't even have to adjust it.

Good luck!

 

[5.7 hemi]

I’m getting a lot of air out with a vacuum bleeder.
The piston is centered, no light on the dash.

Vacuuming is working, so I’ll keep on it.

I’ll post results when done.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Pedal feels like it’s starting to get harder. Crossing my eyes that this is working.

 

[steve from staten island]

Did you install a adjustable proportioning valve which gets installed just pass distribution block? The distribution block is just that, crack fitting going to rear brakes and see if fluid comes out. Absolutely check rod that goes from master into booster

 

[5.7 hemi]

I can still turn the front rotors by hand with the brake pedal depressed, ughhh!

No adjustable proportioning valve, it’s the factory valve for drum brakes. Which at this point I’m leaning towards a disc/drum proportioning valve.....which will be a chore to change as the headers/torsion bar are right there, no room unless I pull the header/tb and lift the engine.

Booster rod is next, hopefully that will do it.

 

[khryslerkid]

I can still turn the front rotors by hand with the brake pedal depressed, ughhh!

When bench bleeding, did you bottom the piston out? (Just had to ask)

 

[5.7 hemi]

No, just moved it enough to get fluid moving in the clear lines so I can see any air bubbles.

 

[khryslerkid]

No, just moved it enough to get fluid moving in the clear lines so I can see any air bubbles.

Might be where you air is trapped. I learnd to bottom out the piston when bench bleeding. Not a hard push to bottom it out but but push it all the way. Sometimes sitting overnight helps on a stubborn system.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Well, I just re-bled the master, I went to the floor. I didn’t see any air bubbles, so that should be good.

Adjusting the booster tip now.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Sum bitch, adjusting the booster tip isn’t do squat!

 

[khryslerkid]

Sum bitch, adjusting the booster tip isn’t do squat!

Have you gotten any fluid to the rear yet?

 

[steve from staten island]

I can still turn the front rotors by hand with the brake pedal depressed, ughhh!

No adjustable proportioning valve, it’s the factory valve for drum brakes. Which at this point I’m leaning towards a disc/drum proportioning valve.....which will be a chore to change as the headers/torsion bar are right there, no room unless I pull the header/tb and lift the engine.

Booster rod is next, hopefully that will do it.

When I said adjustable proportioning valve I was thinking the one they sent you in the kit. The factory distribution block were the low warning light is fine. Gotta check that booster rod. If there is no air in front brakes and you can still turn the rotor by hand while someone is stepping on pedal there is not enough brake fluid pressure to the calipers

 

[5.7 hemi]

Fluid is coming out of the rear by vacuum pump, but will not bleed on its own.

The valve they sent is supposed to go on the rear line to either increase/decrease pressure to the rear. Stock valving is still on the car. Adjusting the booster netted zilch for results.

I took off the 7/16 hex head on the factory valve, got clean fluid dribbling out and my son pressed the pedal, got a lot more. So now I’m going to check the front banjo bolts, maybe even take off the calipers and stick some wood in between the pads and see what happens. I’ve got nothing to lose but time at this point.

 

[bolson6333]

are the rear shoes adjusted ?