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New Guy with a '72 Coronet Starting Issue

They only ground I haven't checked is between the block and frame. Is there a dedicated cable for this or is it just the engine mounts?

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They only ground I haven't checked is between the block and frame. Is there a dedicated cable for this or is it just the engine mounts?
 
OK, here is the key phrase- after engaging starter- click and then no power anywhere until---battery is disconnected and reconnected.

That's a simple bad connection at the battery terminal. What else could it be if disconnecting and reconnecting the battery restores power.
 
They only ground I haven't checked is between the block and frame. Is there a dedicated cable for this or is it just the engine mounts?

- - - Updated - - -

They only ground I haven't checked is between the block and frame. Is there a dedicated cable for this or is it just the engine mounts?

yes there is . the engine mounts are isolated with rubber. your ground would be finding its way somewhere else , like the throttle cable or trans lines or something. you need a ground strap from the engine block to the body regardless. you can never have too many grounds.

on my test stand , i have a direct hot from the battery to the starter and a push button across to the solenoid. without a solid ground from the block to the battery, it would just click until i scraped the metal and tightened the hell out of it.
 
I have a feeling that the ground strap to the frame has come loose somehow. Do u guys happen to know where should be to help narrow down my search.
 
I have a feeling that the ground strap to the frame has come loose somehow. Do u guys happen to know where should be to help narrow down my search.

typically , the ground strap comes off the rear of the engine block to the firewall. these are unibodies, so the frame rail and the firewall are basically one in the same. you can achieve the same thing by running a thick wire from the negative battery post to the core support or inner fender . either way , the negative battery cable to the block has to be clean and tight, same as every connection.

somewhere , you have a dirty or loose connection , whether it is the positive side or the ground. have you verified you have (give or take) 13 volts across the battery? low battery voltage would cause the same thing.
 
if the batter reads 12.33 volts just sitting there it needs to be charged.should be at 12.6 min for all testing.12.0 volts is a fully discharged battery,just for a reference point.
 
Agree with ground strap.

Agree with 12 not being enough.

However, a low bat should "click, click, click", not "click and no power".

Still sounds like classic bad battery terminal connection to me.

...unless something is grounding out and that's why there;s no power.

You'd think something would start smoking, though.

Did we ever get an answer to jumping the solenoid?
 
...and you disconnect a battery terminal and then reconnect it, and power is restored?

Does it matter which terminal?
 
Wow.

You got me, now.
 
if i was around there id come over and help, but im out of ideas from here. are you sure its all the way in park? does it do anything in neutral? have you added a ground from the block to the body? have you made sure the NSS is all the way on the trans? can you spin the engine over by hand? tried a different starter ? just throwing out ideas
 
OK, one more-

If the starter is loose from the flywheel (not totally removed, as on a bench), what happens?

I suppose it could be tight, thus requiring a shim, but after 27 years and over a dozen Mopars, I've never needed one, or even seen one used.
 
I have not had a chance to check out the ground strap. I was told by the guy I bought it from that the previsous owner said that the NSS was possibly not working hence the by pass with the push button. I have not thought about since that button had seemed to fix that issue. I must admit that I have little experince with transmissions. Does anyone have a pic of it installed in the transmission?
 
I have not had a chance to check out the ground strap. I was told by the guy I bought it from that the previsous owner said that the NSS was possibly not working hence the by pass with the push button. I have not thought about since that button had seemed to fix that issue. I must admit that I have little experince with transmissions. Does anyone have a pic of it installed in the transmission?

you have to turn the key on then hit the push button correct? you can bypass the whole NSS by grounding the starter relay to the body. just remember , it will start in any gear. unplug your connector at the G terminal, get you another connector with a piece of wire , stripped and screwed down somewhere on the fender that is bare metal

the battery and engine block MUST be grounded to the body for this to work
relaycopy2.jpg


~~~~get you a *NEW* push button starter. it could very well be corroded inside if its been used for a long time~~~~i have a feeling the starter button is bad


you can also take the push button , attach it to the starter relay hot post and the starter solenoid wire to find out if the starter is getting juice and working
 

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Well here's some good news. I had some time to work on the coronet today after school. I disconnected, cleaned, and reconnect every ground and power wire I could find. After all of that, it started right up.
 
Well here's some good news. I had some time to work on the coronet today after school. I disconnected, cleaned, and reconnect every ground and power wire I could find. After all of that, it started right up.

Congratulations!

did it restart again after you shut it off for a while?
 
Well here's some good news. I had some time to work on the coronet today after school. I disconnected, cleaned, and reconnect every ground and power wire I could find. After all of that, it started right up.

did that include the push-button itself or just everything else? Any idea which connection was faulty??
 
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