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New header problem/consideration

jeepthrills01

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So I've been planing to use the Hedmans I got at a swap meet a few years back for my Eddy headed 383.
I made the "mistake" of using ARP studs. And guess what!

Studs stick up far enough to require grinding about .25" off the bottom of each flange. Still playing with if the studs will clear the center tubes! Lol.
 
I used studs in my Trick Flow heads and had the same problem with TTI headers. I I had to clearance the flanges about the same amount. just used some hi heat silver paint. ruffcut
 
Studs on the ends are nice for hanging them and line up the gasket. I use bolts everywhere else. I have one tube it’s so tight I had the grind down the round edges of the wrench to tighten the bolt…
 
Studs on the ends are nice for hanging them and line up the gasket. I use bolts everywhere else. I have one tube it’s so tight I had the grind down the round edges of the wrench to tighten the bolt…
We used cylinder head studs that are interfering with the header flange. Minr on TTI and his on Heddman
 
We used cylinder head studs that are interfering with the header flange. Minr on TTI and his on Heddman
Gotcha, I misread it... That sucks especially grinding on TTI's.
 
I don't really mind grinding on a $100 set of swapmeet pipes!.lol
Just another fly in the ointment.

And I couldn't believe I was the only one who this has happen to.
Its just a little more geometry to consider when the block is decked and heads are shaved.
 
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When reengineering you have to expect these things, I guess. I would have to liked using HP exhaust manifolds, but they don't fit with angles spark plugs! One thing after another. ruffcut
 
So I've been planing to use the Hedmans I got at a swap meet a few years back for my Eddy headed 383.
I made the "mistake" of using ARP studs. And guess what!

Studs stick up far enough to require grinding about .25" off the bottom of each flange. Still playing with if the studs will clear the center tubes! Lol.
same here , TTI headers , victor raised port knock offs , I took extra length off of the studs (above the nuts.)
 
Decking blocks and shaving heads, trimming intakes and then having these issues. That's something I have trouble getting my head around. My thinking is this ... all pistons have their compression rated based on "stock deck heights" and specific combustion camber sizes (forget about bore size for a moment). So when you chose a piston, you chose it based on the head you're using. Then, when you deck the block and shave the head you compensate for that amount with the head gasket. The end result is everything still fits where it should and you have the target CR.

Not to say this would resolve the stud issue, they're probably too long regardless. Just saying that in 99% of builds if you've chosen your pistons correctly then you should be correctling the machining with head gaskets.

For example, if your stroke, rod length and piston combo says the piston should sit .009 below the deck with your head volume and after machining the piston is .016 out of the hole, you better be adding .025 to the stock head gasket thickness.
 
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