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New lower control arm bush but when I grab the pivot shaft, there is play in it? Help

fluffoffal

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Hi.
I'm in the process of rebuilding the front end of my 66 Coronet as it would not hold a wheel alignment and had crazy +ve wheel camber when I accelerated hard but when I braked it would return to normal.
I have pulled one side apart and fitted a PST poly graphite kit. I am using a rubber lower arm bush though.
I welded a piece of steel across the cuff of the old lower control arm bush and hammered it out from behind. I then hammered in the new complete rubber bush using a hi impact socket that was the same diameter of the lower control arm bush cuff until it seated. Next, I cleaned and greased the pivot shaft and tried hammering that in by placing a piece of tube over the shaft that sat against the flared rim halfway along the shaft. It went in about halfway by hammering but then wouldn't go anymore. I took it into work and pressed it the rest of the way in which took around 2 tonnes.
Satisfied it was all done, I grabbed the torsion bar pivot cam that the torsion bar adjuster bolt butts against and rotated it to find that it also moves the spindle length ways 2 or 3 mm and the bush cuff moves with it?
I don't want to put it back together if this is going to affect my alignment. A guy at the suspension shop said it would be fine once it was back in and had the pressure of the torsion bar against it but I'm not convinced. Someone also said to tack the cuff of the lower arm bush to the lower arm?
I guess the question is, should the lower arm bush and spindle be able to rotate as one? Could this have been the source of my original alignment issues? Could the 2 members that make up the Lower control arm have spread apart a bit allowing the movement?

You can see in photo 1 and 2 the movement in the torsion bar adjuster arm.
Is this normal or have the 2 control arm members spread over time and need pressing back together and a plate welded on to stop them spreading again?

There are no old time mopar guys in Australia to help me!

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Many thanks,

Steve. Australia
 

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Last edited:
I got myself a pair of those:
http://pepsparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=abe%2Dlcas
You can make them yourself.
Before you weld them in place you press the LCA together in a vice so the backlash dissapears, (just leave a little...).
Bad english but I think you get it?

And don´t use the hammer on the car anymore, they are for carpenters.
 
I got myself a pair of those:
http://pepsparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=abe%2Dlcas
You can make them yourself.
Before you weld them in place you press the LCA together in a vice so the backlash dissapears, (just leave a little...).
Bad english but I think you get it?

And don´t use the hammer on the car anymore, they are for carpenters.

Hi, thanks for the response. Will definitely get a pair of those!
So after you welded them on and pulled the lower control arm members together, did it eliminate any play of the pivot shaft?
 
Sorry for a late answer, it worked just fine for me, almost all play are gone but it will always be some play but the strut rod will take care of that.
 
Someone also said to tack the cuff of the lower arm bush to the lower arm?
I guess the question is, should the lower arm bush and spindle be able to rotate as one? There are no old time mopar guys in Australia to help me!
Many thanks,

Steve. Australia

Hi Steve, You should not be tacking or welding any bushings. If you have to then something is wrong. The nut on the pivot for the lower control arm should remain loose until you have the weight on the front wheels and adjust the torsion bars. Then you can tighthen the nut.
Regards,
 
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