New or old A/C

[Dennis H]

Good luck, keep us posted. With R12 availablity, I would use it.

 

[MarPar]

 

[dan juhasz]

Took the major components out of the case. Few tricks and things I didn't realize to get the heater core out. Didn't realize that the extension pipes for the heater core uses slide on over o rings to seal technology. I didn't think it existed before the 90's. Also on the 2 water drains, because of the dirt and corrosion I had a time figuring out how to remove what looks like 2 top hats, they serve as a backstop for thick sponge seals to firewall. Good news, all actuators are good, I found a NOS vacuum switch and a NOS h valve, sent the Ranco heater valve out to be restored. These are made of unobtanium. Both the 50 year old dual core and the evaporator got a thumbs up from my local radiator shop.

 

[The Capitan]

I spent about $60 total to redo my a/c hoses on my 68 Chrysler. Cut the old hose off and reused the fittings bought $45 of stuff from www.coldhose.com and had them crimped at the local truck supply house for $15.

 

[The Capitan]

I spent about $60 total to redo my a/c hoses on my 68 Chrysler. Cut the old hose off and reused the fittings bought $45 of stuff from www.coldhose.com and had them crimped at the local truck supply house for $15.

 

[dan juhasz]

I spent about $60 total to redo my a/c hoses on my 68 Chrysler. Cut the old hose off and reused the fittings bought $45 of stuff from www.coldhose.com and had them crimped at the local truck supply house for $15.

I need to find a place that can do the crimping by me

 

[The Capitan]

The a/c shop wanted $45 for 3 hoses and the truck supply house said $5 each

 

[Max440]

Hi, as I haven't taken the case out or apart yet you can answer a bunch of questions I have.
1. Is the case removable from under the dash without taking the dash out of the car? Yes you can get it out.
2. Is the H valve an actual valve that is hooked up to a cable or is it mearly tubing to hook up both sides of the core? The H valve inside the heater box is linkage driven - replac this one because it is a PIA to open the box again and it is cheap enough. The other H valve for the coolant mounted on the firewal is the expensive one and not available in the aftermarket. If yours is all origional it can be rebuilt for about 150.00 - I you are not stuck on all original there are other aftermarket valves you can use - in either case it is cable driven from your heater controls.
3. Are both the heater core and evaporator readily available in the aftermarket? Both are readily available in the aftermarket. If getting them rebuilt be sure its a place with a great reputation otherwise you will do this again , I have seen several work for a year or so then leak again -
these are 50 year old parts rebuilt or not - I went new
Thanks so much
Dan

 

[YY1]

We have 2 places that do custom hydraulic and other pressure hose work around here.

Didn't really notice them until I needed a clutch line for a motorcycle.

OEM was $175.

Hose place made me one for $45. Slightly different connector, but can't see it.

They said no problem to do A/C lines and or mix ends on older/newer hoses.

 

[YY1]

...and mine does just fine in 100* 100% humidity FL with a simple r134a conversion.

 

[dan juhasz]

Had the ranco heater valve rebuilt by Joe Hudecek for under 100 bucks, he also had a nos h valve which I bought. Got my case gasket and seal kit in today so time to start putting the pieces together. Bought a compressor front seal kit also. Still looking for a place in Jersey that can replace the rubber hose sections of the ac lines.
While I was waiting I sent the AM/FM out to a guy who can fix the original radio. Sent the clock and tach out to redline gauges, they did a VDO upgrade to the console tach, they promise it will be accurate and work with any ignition. Clock got a quartz movement.

 

[dan juhasz]

All gone through and checked first on a bench for blower motor and and vacuum doors correct operation. Ready to re install

 

[Richard Cranium]

I spent about $60 total to redo my a/c hoses on my 68 Chrysler. Cut the old hose off and reused the fittings bought $45 of stuff from www.coldhose.com and had them crimped at the local truck supply house for $15.

I would imagine that it would be tough to dig the old hose out from under the crimped fitting, but how do they re-crimp new hoses onto used fittings that have already been crimped?

 

[dan juhasz]

I would imagine that it would be tough to dig the old hose out from under the crimped fitting, but how do they re-crimp new hoses onto used fittings that have already been crimped?

My understanding is the old fitting is cut of and discarded. The new fitting is a collar that slides over the barb, then the hose is pushed over the barbed fitting and crimped.

 

[dan juhasz]

95 percent success, fixed my defroster duct to make it usable . Swapped everything over on the compressor. New expansion valve and drier. Ran out of r12 when charging so didnt get a clesr site glass. Small issues that I hope to iron out. Need forum members input on these.
1. New vacuum switch, mopar part , but one set of terminals are seperate on original but joined on replacement switch. Problem is compressor only disengages in the heat position. All other positions are hot including off.
2. Did not take pictures of location of these 2 brackets. Need help identifying if anyone can help.