New windows, too tight to roll up!

[Mocajava]

To all
I ordered and received new windows for my 2 door, 69 Coronet. I also ordered the new sets of plastic "shims/slides" for the door windows. I had to pull windows several times as the windows were very tight going up and down in the curved channels. Every time I removed them I would take .030 to .060" off the thickness of the plastic sliders. I have removed over half the original thickness of the sliders to this point and the windows are still very hard to get up and down. I am afraid I will strip the gears in the crank trying to move windows up and down.
I don't know if I should try and bend/ take some curve out of the original channels or keep removing more of the slider thickness to get them to roll up and down? Has anyone else had this problem and what can I do to correct these tight channels. The window curvature doesn't match the channel obviously, but I don't want to permanently damage the original window channels trying to bend them to match window curve. Any help or feedback would be appreciated. Mocajava

 

[AR67GTX]

Is it difficult to get the first pair of plastic pads to enter the channel? If so then they just need to be thinned some more. Mine entered pretty easily. Since there are only 2 sets of pads on the glass I wouldn't think a very minor difference in glass curvature would affect it much up front - but probably could in the rear. A major difference in glass curvature would sure be a show stopper. Does the window slide up and down with difficulty before you hook it up to the regulator?

 

[dadsbee]

If you are using new slider H's.. it's not the outside overall that is mfg wrong, it's a combination of a few things. They need to be modified to match the OE's to get the correct fit/width and pending what reproduction mylar you have plays into "freedom" as well.

 

[snakeoil24]

Lubricate lubricate and sand them til they slide

 

[Mocajava]

I have the new "whiter" versions and have sanded them down to less than half the original thickness. I have also rounded them down to a point but haven't addressed the width. I am guessing NO ONE would recommend trying to flex the original channels, I am afraid of bending the chrome exterior or making the problem worse.

 

[dadsbee]

^^^ that's what I was trying to convey. Look at the OE vs repro sitting side by side, and in the case of the repro opened up to window thickness! It's not the outside you need to be trimming down, it's the inside so the glass boss "posts" sit further into the glass hole.

 

[VFilms]

Dadsbee is correct. Also, the original mylar is curved properly, unlike the repos that are not curved at all. So do not try to 'adjust' the original mylar.
Making the guides fit properly is a tedious job. Perhaps you can find some original guides from someone here. I reused all my original guides and re-flocked my original mylar. Works great.

 

[AR67GTX]

The mylar repro slides I bought last fall are curved just fine to match the channel but the mylar itself is thicker than the old originals (or maybe earlier repros). Because of the added thickness my old guides were too thick to work so I had to use the plastic ones furnished in the kit. They worked fine in the channel after fitting. I didn’t have to sand them or anything. This was with OEM glass.

 

[Pistol Pete]

Mocajava - out of curiosity, where did you get the glass ?

 

[Mocajava]

Okay, I see the internal depth difference now! I will have to dig into my files but the glass was bought from a very reputable company, and more expensive than most. I even bough the smoked pieces, they look great. I appreciate the help gentlemen and will give this a try. Mocajava