Newb question re: kickdown linkage

[Cletus]

Been trying to wrap my head around the workings of those linkages going to the carb... I do have a basic understanding for the carb throttle pin/linkage/actuator bit, but when it comes to the stuff that deals with the transmission, I'm hopeless.

I'm about to put a new carb in, a Holley 500 CFM that will replace the weird 80's van carb, or whatever that thing is. I also have a hunch my kickdown doesn't work properly, or at all, which, as I understand it, is bad for the poor A904... simply put, when I floor it, I get an increase in RPM but no downshift.

I've tried to visually troubleshoot, but as I have basically no clue what to look for, it's kinda hard... tried studying the factory manual and various web pages, but things tend to look a bit different from my setup, so I'm hoping y'all might be able to help me out. Here's a pic of what stuff looks like under the hood... please explain what you see, preferrably in a way an idiot can understand, and let me know if you need pics from another angle or from another place altogether.

 

[Seax440Dodge]

looks to me like it needs adjusted

 

[383man]

looks to me like it needs adjusted

I agree as the throttle press rod needs to go forward to the front of the car so at idle the back of the slot just touches the carb linkage stud. That should get it close to see how it works and go from there. Ron

 

[Cletus]

Yes, the slot's off and will be aligned properly. Will comtinue troubleshooting, but could a badly adjusted throttle be enough to ruin the kickdown function?

 

[sleepar]

The thing about the linkages is #1 make sure you have the right linkage.... they made a different linkage for 2bbl 4bbl 6 bbl etc and cars trucks vans etc and it changed year to year..... that said it's real easy to have a mix of parts that seem right and never can get right.... the main problems people have is because a 2bbl has a larger butterfly than a 4bbl primary so it opens farther to push the linkage back at the trans than a 4bbl and the 4bbl sits on the intake different place and is higher than 2 bbl and is wider so the linkage and its bracketry have different lengths and geometry and there are different levers on the trans depending on column or console shift.... they become very car specific and they all look basically the same except for a few minor differences... as long as at full throttle lever on the trans goes all the way back and at closed throttle comes cleard and doesn't bind you're good...given the trans pressure is adjusted and verified with a line pressure gauge
You're supposed to use a pin to adjust the linkage and on YouTube they have videos of the dealer slide show they used to train the employees at the dealerships.... search for MASTER TECH or MSTC throttle lever adjustment and watch it a couple of times there are a few depending on year but basically there the same deal be thankful you don't have a push button because it would be nearly impossible to explain that with out showing you in person.... there are many posts and if it isn't right it kills the trans in minutes.... some will lock the lever down all the way back and crank up the pressure on the valve body and use a manual valve for racing but it never should done to any other set up.... mix match parts can be adjusted to work properly and the locar cables have to be cut to give more travel in some to work... you have to study this and get an A+ because the next grade below that is an F... good luck and don't run the car till you get it right... adjusting the carb and the band's in the trans first is the key.

- - - Updated - - -

Your missing a spring from the throttle pin to the linkage

- - - Updated - - -

Yes, the slot's off and will be aligned properly. Will comtinue troubleshooting, but could a badly adjusted throttle be enough to ruin the kickdown function?

Yes and the trans.... search the threads on here and find someone local to you come and help you... Sweden might be hard to find someone but eventually you will get their... master Tec on youtube for all kinds of fixes

 

[Cletus]

Excellent info, thanks. Yes, that Master Tech clip is what actually made me aware that something was amiss linkage-wise... well, that and the fact that I don't get a downshift when flooring the accelerator. Have no desire for a catastrophic trans failure, so yeah, will keep on reading up on this stuff.

 

[Garys1969RR]

I think you are missing the lightweight spring that holds the kick down linkage all the way forward on the throttle lever. And have someone depress the accelerator fully (engine off) and see if the kickdown linkage is all the way back until it won't go back any more, at wide open throttle. This is the point that the transmission will shift into passing gear.

 

[383man]

I think you are missing the lightweight spring that holds the kick down linkage all the way forward on the throttle lever. And have someone depress the accelerator fully (engine off) and see if the kickdown linkage is all the way back until it won't go back any more, at wide open throttle. This is the point that the transmission will shift into passing gear.

Yes thats right as I missed that. Ron

 

[SlinktRR]

aftermarket

looks to me like it needs adjusted

you might consider getting a bouchillon or lokar kickdown setup. These are aftermarket kits that simplify the linkage adjustment considerably. The main consideration is maintaining pressure on the trans kickdown lever (next to the gearshift lever on the trans body) even at idle in gear..if this is left loose or disconnected you risk burning up the trans within the first mile.

if you want to keep the OEM, keep in mind there are a lot of different combos as sleepar explained. You will want to get the FSM and read carefully, or search for the linkage diagram online. I am not doing a restoration so the bouchillon saved me a lot of parts hunting.

 

[Cletus]

I actually saw an ad for the Lokar setups recently. Seriously considering that option, especially after studying the FSM...

 

[Bruzilla]

I think you are missing the lightweight spring that holds the kick down linkage all the way forward on the throttle lever. And have someone depress the accelerator fully (engine off) and see if the kickdown linkage is all the way back until it won't go back any more, at wide open throttle. This is the point that the transmission will shift into passing gear.

Once you make sure the kickdown is all the way rearward when the carb is at wide open throttle, you also need to go underneath the car and make sure the kickdown is pushing the shift lever on the tranny correctly. If the rod is moving back, but not fully engaging the shift lever, it won't work.

 

[charger360]

the shift lever? I think you mean the other lever! sure don't want to be shifting with the kickdown linkage! ha! just busting your chops. the set up you have there does not use the spring at the carb it is on the rod that goes down to the bellcrank. that being said it is much nicer to have the one up at the carb. to do that you will have to weld a tab on there as you have the wrong upper rod for that spring how much can you unthread that rod before it falls off? unthread it which make it longer till you have the desired downshift. the fsm is nice but once there is some wear and tear and perhaps a mish mash of parts you sometimes have to go by feel. if you unthread it all the way before getting what you want you may have to weld in a bit more length. you will know when you have gone too far as it will hold on to first too long before upshifting or downshift on it's own when you slow down. it is really easy to get it close just start adjusting. the main thing is you should feel all of your gears when you take off from a dead stop if it seems to go right to third you are going to hurt the tranny!

 

[Al K]

Don't know if this will offer any help,but here's what I did on the '64. Not sure what year this stuff is,but ya work with what you've got-including what's lying around the nut/bolts/random stuff stash.

 

[rebootej]

Definitely needs to be adjusted. The slotted piece should be pushed all the way forward against the stud, but not pressing it forward. Also i look like you're missing the spring that hold the rod in the forward position. We just swapped a 570 holley street avenger on to my dads dart from a 2bbl. Here a picture. Also we did have to modify the throttle bracket.



But i have the BPE cable kit on my Satellite. And id recommend doing that if your thinking of switching.

 

[SlinktRR]

mopar tv

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6JsHSDQ_Ps

I like the chrysler training videos from the period, this one is pretty good at explaining all the details on adjusting the throttle linkage for the kickdown. Combine this vid with the FSM and you should be able to get your stock setup to work.

 

[Al K]

Excuse my butting in(maybe it will help someone else),but...my stuff is mounted solid(rod from trans mounted solid to bracket from carb linkage);should I fix that and go back to having movement(pin moving back and forth in the slotted part of the rod) in the linkage? The trans rod is slotted,but thick(1/4"),not like what you guys have pictured. It'll mean more fab work-no big deal-or,should I look for some later-model year parts and use them.

Might explain why I have to do the next job...

I'm getting ready to attempt a throttle shaft seal replacement;in looking at it,the header and part of the exhaust needs removal just so I have some room to move. I'm also only up on standard car ramps;a hoist would a godsend.

I'll post separately about that;now,back to our regularly scheduled programming...

 

[Cletus]

Got me the Lokar kickdown setup, awaiting the throttle wire. Getting rid of my old van carb (?) too and putting a Holley in, so might as well put in new and hopefully functioning parts.

 

[snakeoil24]

Yes, the slot's off and will be aligned properly. Will continue troubleshooting, but could a badly adjusted throttle be enough to ruin the kickdown function?

Do you have the spring connected to the Kick down at the transmission to push it back at idle?

 

[Cletus]

Do you have the spring connected to the Kick down at the transmission to push it back at idle?

Nope, seem to miss that.

 

[Cletus]

Welp, I grew a pair and removed linkage from carb pin, adjusted it and replaced it. Went for a test drive - kickdown is back A slight adjustment is all it took.