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Got these in the mail, time to get rolling. Although I need to get bolts for the trans mount because mine were missing when I pulled the 904 out ... Stupid question which way does the cross member go? Trans mount go in front or back of crossmember?
Thanks 69 gtx, sorry I meant the bolts that went into the rubber mount to tranny. Figured out it's 7/16" coarse bought a handful of sizes seems like 1" fit best. I was installing my b&m shifter stuff while the tranny was out and I noticed this hole in the top of the tail shaft. It doesn't appear to be threaded any ideas? My other 727 doesn't have any hole.
Quick question since my converter needed 7/16 and not stock size I had to run out and grab a set at the auto store my problem is it's just a hair too long. But they came with locking washer can I use that or should I order the correct 7/16" for 727.
Boy today was frustrating first my bolts were too long when I tested the converter to flex plate. Then I dealt with getting the converter in the tranny for a solid hour. I am hoping its in right now. I've never done any of this so I tested the converter into the tranny before i added any fluid to see/feel the clunks. Well I got it on and turned it "clink clink". Thought sweet that was easy pulled it off filled it with fluid greased everything real good. Put it back on nothing... Pulled it off tried again spun it probably 10 complete circles each time just kept at it. Finally, I put it on barely moved it and it popped one time spun it awhile more didn't get any more clunks so I assume because I had it go all the way in when I was testing that everything was lined up and that is why it only clunk once? Hopefully anyways I don't wanna pull it off again. From what I read it should sit about 3/4" in the bell housing which it is.
Anyways, other than that I took the intake off and resealed the valley plate. Removed the water pump and crank pulley cleaned up everything. tomorrow I should have the engine in and start mocking up the motor plate placement.
already falling behind with this thread. Let's see... Last week I got the engine installed and I've slowly made progress since then with 30min-hour a night out in the garage but I've got just about everything done the only issues I've got on my plate right now is the driver side header tube is hitting the power steering causing it to not sit flush on the head. so as suggested by cranky I will probably slide the engine over a 1/8 or so to clear. The pass. side has enough room to make it happen. The only issue I found is a couple of my spark plugs won't work on the pass side so I'll need to get 2 or 3 angled plugs expecially if I'm moving the engine over that way. The only other issue right now is trying to line everything up front with the plate in the way I'll have to run both the alt. And power steering pump at the bottom of the plate.
Well I got it to start but it won't stay running... I've been trying to track down the issue but I just don't get it. Everything's wired correctly according to the instructions the only gray area is the switched 12 volt for the ignition. Once I let off the key it dies. I have it wired to the old blue/white wire that reads 12 volt in the start and run position but only shows 2 volts when I have the ignition box connected to it...
So, apparently you have to splice the blue and brown ignition wires to the MSD... It clearly looks to be running rich. I've gotta hook up my tach to see where its idling but it sounds pretty low so hopeful turn the idle up alittle and lean it out a little. But I'm excited it runs. Now I just gotta bolt in the motor plate and hook up the accessories.
So,I knew from the beginning my stock 5/16" fuel lines wouldn't cut it. I am finally tackling it although I probably should have done it before I got the engine in but I seem to do things out of order lol. Anyways, I've got my new 1/2" sending unit from 521 restoration. And a roll of aluminum. I just got started trying to bend the lines. We'll see how it goes. I am also ordering a fuel regulator here tonight after learning more about the racepump I think I'm suppose to run a non return style but have to add a return to the low pressure side.
Edit: finished bending. I gotta say it wasn't so bad. I have bent a few lines at my old job that probably helped. My biggest problem was using the piece of sh** bender that would kink the aluminum if I wasn't careful...
Now I have to decide where to end the hard line, at the firewall or run it all the way parallel to the pump. It'll be -8an from that into the pump.
The last couple weeks I have made a little progress. Its mostly me going out to the garage in the evening trying to tackle something only to find out I need some piece and have to wait a couple days for it to come in the mail.
Anyways, I finally pull my gas tank to take a look at it. It is in worst shape than I expected. Being that everything is brand new I think I'll wind up ordering a new tank and not even deal with trying to clean it. I also got the Quicksilver shifter installed. All I need to do is adjust the cable a little as it seems like its tight going into park as well as third still. I spent a long time trying to route the cable different ways but ultimately I only saw one option and that was to run it down the passenger side of the transmission and loops around the front of the pan. I wrapped it in heat reflecting tape as well as used a rubber grommet on the hole in the tunnel to keep the cable from rubbing on the sharp lip. I had asked about battery relocation in another thread earlier this week and I received just about everything for that yesterday.
My goal is to take it to the Good guys show up in Bowling Green Ky. in October for a couple days of drag racing. Still need a Dana 60 and driveshaft but that should put me on the road.