levicah
Well-Known Member
Ok, I've taken enough of your time, I will try to affirm the things that do work (Brakes and hazards) by testing continuity...Thank you very much...I'm "plumbing" mechanical for decades, but electrical frys me.
No flashers or blinkers, hazards work fine
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levicah
Well-Known Member
Ok. had my son doing it, he did something wrong. SOOOO, I get continuity for all 4 corners against the red socket. tan and brown, green and dark green according to t/s position. Thats good. But what on earth do I do now? I thought for sure it was the t/s switch. the flasher is new, hazards say all 4 bulbs are good. break lights work also. Any ideas now?
Sometimes doing continuity tests just messes you up. Just start looking for 12v going in and 12v at the end. I have gotten brain damaged from some of this electrical stuff over 69 yrs!
Ok, let's see
Continuity test in female end to confirm switch is good or bad
Power test on male end is to check power arrives to tirning switch and flashers and related are good.
Continuity test in female end to confirm switch is good or bad
Power test on male end is to check power arrives to tirning switch and flashers and related are good.
levicah
Well-Known Member
Ok night has fallen, I agree it's a power issue, I'll do what old bee said, and figure out where the power stops. kinda glad it aint the t/s switch...I'm not getting where the red wire to the flasher comes from, but it is dead no matter what gets switched or turned on. Thanks for all your help...I'll probably be on here tomorrow either rejoicing or asking more questions!
This may not help at all.
I got tired of trying to read prints page to page on my cars and did a simplified diagram on a 73/74 A body.
Fuses, etc will be "different" but I would think the switches and principles and bulbs are the same.
MAY sort of show how it works.
I got tired of trying to read prints page to page on my cars and did a simplified diagram on a 73/74 A body.
Fuses, etc will be "different" but I would think the switches and principles and bulbs are the same.
MAY sort of show how it works.
levicah
Well-Known Member
Alrighty then, key on or off, I got no voltage on the red male pin (dash side of column connector). using the pink hazard wire, I get light to all bulbs as I touch to brwn/tan or drk green and green. everything works, but no voltage at the turn flasher, in or out. flasher is good. (swapped it w/ hazard flasher, which also works)
So, the flasher is the next thing upstream on the red wire...right? then where does current come from?
where on the circuit does the fuse for turn signal come in?
and what number is the turn signal fuse? 1, 2 , 3, or 4 (left bank)
I feel like I'm close if the red is "supposed" to be hot with the key on. but I dont know what to check as the voltage source for the red wire next.
remember, I have continuity through the column wires just fine.
You've been a huge help!
levicah
Well-Known Member
So, I dont know what to check next on the red wire voltage source going to the column turn signal switch...it's dead and my schematic is incomplete...it seems like voltage comes from blk wire going into the flasher and comes out red to the column harness. is that correct? if so, whats the next stop on that black wire? Assuming I am moving upstream towards the problem or lack of voltage...
do you have voltage at radio? uses same fuse and as far I recall is spliced from same wire.
checking at flasher plug, one of them must be powered, can't recall which one ( in ACC or RUN of course ) coming from fuse box. I think should be black one, since Red one is the one running up to turning switch.
checking at flasher plug, one of them must be powered, can't recall which one ( in ACC or RUN of course ) coming from fuse box. I think should be black one, since Red one is the one running up to turning switch.
levicah
Well-Known Member
Besides having a incomplete schematic, my fuse box is not marked. cannot find a simple diagram that identifies each fuse. cant figure out the relation between the bulkhead connector and the fuse box...I'm making progress, thanks!
ok, 71/72 fuseboxes are marked with function, not 73/74 thought which are labeled with numbers
if you don't want a FSM, a owners manual will help, since the owners manual got the fuses chart
anyway, I'm going straight... As far I recall and I'm allmost 100% certain about that, the radio gets the power from same wire than feeds the turning flasher. My memory tells me you should get at turning flasher plug one cavity with black and red wires spliced into one terminal, and the other cavity leaving a single red wire.
the black wire comes from fusebox, and splices into the red one to feed the radio.
the single red wire runs to the turning switch
SOOOOO, you should have power to the cavity where arrives the black wire with the red wire spliced to ( in RUN or ACC )
if you don't want a FSM, a owners manual will help, since the owners manual got the fuses chart
anyway, I'm going straight... As far I recall and I'm allmost 100% certain about that, the radio gets the power from same wire than feeds the turning flasher. My memory tells me you should get at turning flasher plug one cavity with black and red wires spliced into one terminal, and the other cavity leaving a single red wire.
the black wire comes from fusebox, and splices into the red one to feed the radio.
the single red wire runs to the turning switch
SOOOOO, you should have power to the cavity where arrives the black wire with the red wire spliced to ( in RUN or ACC )
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and of course you should be able to turn on your Radio ( if stock or if aftermarket but using same source! ) if not, well, there is a clue on the fail.
levicah
Well-Known Member
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