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No more oilpressure after installing new rear crank seal. On indy 500ci

Breth

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Hi,

We have a customers 1968 top of the notch dodge charger. It has all matching numbers but with some modifications. The car got a to 500ci stroked indy head, indy valvetrain engine in it. The engine got a different carb, intake, got headers, 2x 3" exhaust, built trans with different converter, etc. etc. It made 585hp on our dyno.
Now the customer came to us because the engine was leaking on the rear mainseal.
The engine was allways filled with 15W50 V300 form Motul.

So i did remove the oilpan, removed the rear mainbearing block and changed the seal, i keeped an eye on the bearings and was also removed one rod cap to check one rodbearing. Everything looked fine.
After reinstalling everything i was filling in our 77 high zingg 20W50 engine oil specially for build classic engines. Everything was running fine, but the engine was still leaking. Was much better then before, but it leaked again. After long researching i saw that on some blocks the cranks are not exactly straigth to the blocks, and thats why i can be that you never get it sealed propper. But we still tryed and installed a high perfromance oilcatch can, because i was thinking there could be to much pressure inside the block and thats why it pushes oil out of the seal. So i made all the vents bigger and built that catch can, but it was still the same with the leaking.
After that the customer told me he wants to go back with the 15W20 Motul V300 Oil, so i changed the oil to the V300. Now he has no more oilpressure when the engine gets hot. He say now that we did something wrong with the maincap on the crank bearing, thats why he has no more oilpressure. I can not belive that this is the reason. All the caps are propper installed with the right torquespecs. I dont now the exact numbers after chainging the seal with our 77 oil, i wasnt looking the oilpressure all the time, so i dont think its about the oil.

His numbers are following:

Before he had 25psi in idle when warm, and 60-70psi under load
Now he has 10psi when warm in idle and 25-30psi under load

Can someone help me out?

What i did checked after the seal was the oilpump dirver, but it looked fine when i had it in my hands.

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See if the oil pickup has a crack, maybe by the block.
 
WIch oilpick up do you mean?
What oil system is being used? A stock type strainer where it threads into the block might be an issue.
You might check the oil pump relief. Make sure it's functioning.
 
WIch oilpick up do you mean?
He means the long metal tube that screws into the engine block near the oil pump (inside the oil pan) that extends down to the bottom of the oil pan.

Now my 2-cents...
a. The oil catch can is COMPLETELY un-necessary
b. Your customer might be right about the caps/bearing causing the low oil pressure.
c. Demonic has a good idea. You should check the oil pickup tube near where it screws into the block for a crack, and while you're in there, re-seal the threads of the pickup.
d. There is a lot of information online about re-sealing the rear main seals. As your customer if the engine was align honed (likely) & I've heard of people milling the block mating surface of rear main seal caps to account for align honing if it was done with main caps only. There is a good article at Hughes Engines on rear main seals.

http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload...in_Seal_Installation_InstructionsJune2006.pdf

Hope this helps!
 
How you mean about the oilpressure about the bearing? Because after the reinstall that it not sit in the excact same place as before?
 
Or is maybe just the oilpumpdriveshaft not good anymore?
 
The stock ones are known to fail in high horsepower applications with higher volume and pressure pumps. But usually they break at the tip, resulting in no oil pressure and a ruined engine. I meant that there's a crack in the pump pickup, resulting in the pump pulling in air with oil, reducing suction.
 
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