No Spark At Coil

[dodge68charger]

Tried To Start My Car Earlier and Found There Was No Spark At The Coil.. I Am Running a Pertronix 3 Electronic Ignition In The Coil.

I Ran The Black Wire To The Neg Side Of The Coil And The positive Side To The Pos Side Of The Coil..

I am Running a Voltage Regulator In The Car and Hollowed out The Back Of The Ballast Resistor And Jumped It So There Is No Resistance..

I Do Not Have any Other Wire Going To The Positive side Of The Coil. Which Wire Do I Use To Provide a Keyed Ignition To The Coil. Thanks

 

[BDF6]

Have you seen this? Maybe it will help, I don't know answer right off hand...
http://www.pertronix.com/support/tips/

 

[BDF6]

This helps with Mopar electronic.

 

[dodge68charger]

Looks Like im Missing A Wire From The Left Side Of The Ballast Resistor To The Coil..

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Wire it the way Pertronix instructions say. Do not go by a Mopar electronic wiring diagram...................................MO

 

[dodge68charger]

I will go By The Pertronix way. To My Ballast is a brown and Blue Wire going Into One Connector to One Spade and On The Other Side Is A Blue With a White Tracer Going Back Into The Harness..

Am i Missing a Wire? Or can i Tap into one of These. Only the Blue n White one has power when the keys on n the others Arent Connected

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Mopar ign circuit got two power stages from ign switch. One coming from blue wire on ign 1 or RUN and one coming from brown wire ign 2 or Start. Both wire systems are hot when spliced into the ballast, but setting up a diff voltage rate to the coil acording to the correct ign stage.

The brown wire must be linked to coil since this wire bypasses the ballast voltage decay while cranking for more power on that stage, which is existant while in Run coming from blue wire from ign switch. Up to 69 the wire between ballast bypass/ign switch and coil is blue, from 70 is the same brown coming from switch.

Soooo I think you need to check the ballast terminal spliced with both wires ( brown and blue ) for power... must be hot on both ign switch stages ( since you bypassed the ballast on back, both should get 12 volts ). And this is the same signal the coil must get... on both stages

If the ballast side with two wires spliced is not getting power on both ign stages, something is wrong between ballast and ign switch... Either from single Blue wire in RUN or from Brown wire in START... or in both stages if is the case

 

[JimKueneman]

Tried To Start My Car Earlier and Found There Was No Spark At The Coil.. I Am Running a Pertronix 3 Electronic Ignition In The Coil.

I Ran The Black Wire To The Neg Side Of The Coil And The positive Side To The Pos Side Of The Coil..

I am Running a Voltage Regulator In The Car and Hollowed out The Back Of The Ballast Resistor And Jumped It So There Is No Resistance..

I Do Not Have any Other Wire Going To The Positive side Of The Coil. Which Wire Do I Use To Provide a Keyed Ignition To The Coil. Thanks

View attachment 553607

Not clear here. Did this ever work? I have a III that I have not gotten to work yet.

Jim

 

[dodge68charger]

I checked at the ignition Switch and The brown wire coming from it to the balladt resistor has no power and Cant Seem the trace the blue Wire that its Tied Together with.

Is The brown Wire supposed to have power at the switch?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

If you unplugg the ballast, just should get power in START and not in RUN. When ballast is conected with the brown wire, it should get power also in RUN.

With untouched ballast, brown circuit should get power coming back from ballast so with voltage decay in RUN and full power while cranking, straight from switch but since you modified the ballast, should get same full power in both stages

 

[Cornpatch MO]

I have no use for a ballast resister unless you want it for original appearance. Take it off -throw it away or store it. With points , simply buy a coil from your parts store that is labeled" no external resister ( ballast) needed" The starting full 12 volts , all the time, wire from the ignition switch is attached to the + side of the coil. The - side of the coil goes to your distributor points. That coil automaticaly goes from 12 volt to start to 6 volt to run and not burn up the points. IIRC with the Pertronix , and I assume, some other electronic distributors, use a regular or high voltage 12 volt coil and use 12 volts to the coil and the distributor all the time. .............................MO

 

[dodge68charger]

So Guys I Found The Problem.

I Knew There Was A Blue Wire Missing And The Coloured Wiring diagram wasnt the greatest so i Refered To the one in The FSM.. I Found It Cut In The Harness That Went To The Alternator. Hooked It Up To The Coil and I Got Spark...

Next Problem Was The Spark Was Acting All Weird and Couldnt Figure Out Why. Luckily an Engine Builder friend Stopped By The Shop and Looked In The Distributor and Noticed Something Wasnt Right with the pertronicx Setup. The magnetic pickup that the rotor slides into wasnt there.

Bought a new one and installed it, noticed one of the cylinders wasnt building heat no matter what we tried n Running rough..Took The Magetic Pickup out and Inspected it and noticed it only had 6 magnets, not 8..

Replaced it with the proper one and The car runs Amazing.

Thanks For All The Input Guys

Just Gotta Figure out Why My Ammeter Which I Converted To a Voltmeter is Showing Discharge. The batterys Showing 13.3 volts At idle

 

[JimKueneman]

Are you saying the magnet that is in the Pertronix unit was missing? My Ignitor three did not come with anything other than the plate and box. The II and I need the extra part on the rotor since they are hall effect and the III a variable reluctance pick up I thought.

 

[dodge68charger]

I Was Missing The Black Piece With The Green Tape Around it. Installed it and Car Fired Right Up..

 

[dodge68charger]

In The pic

 

[JimKueneman]

That is not the Ignitor III

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Are you saying the magnet that is in the Pertronix unit was missing? My Ignitor three did not come with anything other than the plate and box. The II and I need the extra part on the rotor since they are hall effect and the III a variable reluctance pick up I thought.

Yes, that was my thought too. Things just not making sense.
I have had a Pert. 1 and when I got my III it did not have the sleeve to go over the points cam. I'm glad you informed us as to the difference.......................MO