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No start issue

Sjd556

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Okay so I have a 73 charger, 383/727 that has just been rebuilt. The motor will crank fine, but I'm getting no start. Its getting good spark and fuel, but still nothing. everything electronically speaking tests good. Battery is also brand new. I started thinking it was timing and set the car at TDC, checked the firing order and all of that looked good. Rotor was pointing directly at no1 cylinder at TDC on compression stroke for cyl 1. Tried retarding timing a bit and still just crank, no start. Tried Advancing timing, got really bad compression backfire through carb. Backed distributor off. Could it be 180 out? Also checked reluctor gap, which was within spec per instructions (.008) So now I am at a loss, and am open to ideas and help..
 
I was under the impression that if its 180 out it will backfire and pop a whole bunch, can it be 180 out without those symptoms?
 
I was under the impression that if its 180 out it will backfire and pop a whole bunch, can it be 180 out without those symptoms?
Spin it 180 and find out.......You haven't labeled all of your components and the only info of importance was it doesn't start and backfired when advanced.....

Are you sure your distributor gear was installed properly?.........Did the builder aligned the timing chain sprocket marks right?
 
I am the builder, it was all done properly. And Mopar distributor, edelbrock e street heads, edelbrock intake, Holley carb, not sure on the model number offhand. stock rotating assembly,
Comp Cam Xtreme Energy .507/.510 if that helps.
 
It does sound like 180 degrees out....and I have had an engine that didn't cough/spit before like that.

If you're SURE you have spark (both while cranking & in run position) + fuel, then your only choices are timing horribly off or valves not closing (no compression). You "could" have the timing gear off by more than a few teeth, but that's unlikely...possible, but not likely.
 
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Could it be 180 out?

Verify.

Pull #1 plug, stick your finger in the hole enough to plug it and turn it over via a remote start button or have someone bump it over.. You'll feel the compression, bring to TDC and check to see where the rotor is at.
 
Verified, plug out, compression pushes finger out of hole, TDC matches on balanced and pointer on cover. Rotor is facing no1. Will try flipping distributor tomorrow and re setting with it it flipped
 
start at the beginning. pull plug 1 , crank to get the compression stroke. then manually turn engine to get initial timing 10 degrease before tic
then pop in distributor and with the power on turn it till it sparks. you should be in the area and if you have gas ( maybe just pour a small cap full in carb) it should fire up.
another thing are the valves too tight? if you get initial timing set , run a compression test to see
The mechanic i work with built a motor , and it wouldn't start , i could hear from my end of the shop
it sounded like no compression, and guess what the new valve cover was holding the valves just a bit open and wouldn't start !
 
I am the builder, it was all done properly. And Mopar distributor, edelbrock e street heads, edelbrock intake, Holley carb, not sure on the model number offhand. stock rotating assembly,
Comp Cam Xtreme Energy .507/.510 if that helps.
Well you verified, spark and fuel.....Lastly is timing...If you verified as you said then there is no need to flip the distributor. I would reset the timing for initial start up and check the valve lash.
 
Verified, plug out, compression pushes finger out of hole, TDC matches on balanced and pointer on cover. Rotor is facing no1. Will try flipping distributor tomorrow and re setting with it it flipped
OK, then assuming all this is correct,
a. Rotor facing #1 at TDC compression
b. You have compression
c. You have fuel
d. You have spark

Then.... is it just flooded??? Maybe pull out the spark plugs & walk away for the night and have a beer. If possible, maybe leave a heater on in the garage overnight. Tomorrow, put the plugs back in & see if it fires (has happened to me firing a new motor).

Also, maybe check your firing order 18436572 (odds on driver's side, evens on passenger) AND that you have the spark plug wires at the cap in COUNTER-clockwise order (has happened to me too).
 
It will, it will even sound a bit odd when turning over, then you'll get popping through the exhaust.
We had a motor backfire like his through the carb and it was a 180 out.....it did not make any other noises.......This is when you recheck everything as he did.....Back to the basics and move forward...
 
backfire like his through the carb

It will, but gases will build up in the exhaust and if a spark catches it can ignite with a 'whomp' kinda sound.

it did not make any other noises

No, what I meant is it just doesn't sound normal when turning over.

I did this once myself, I had the distributor 180* out somehow, lol.
 
Well then back to square one ..

OP, do you have a good known carb on it. Being a fresh build you don't want to risk a lot of cranking without it lighting off, unless your running a roller cam.
 
It will, but gases will build up in the exhaust and if a spark catches it can ignite with a 'whomp' kinda sound.



No, what I meant is it just doesn't sound normal when turning over.

I did this once myself, I had the distributor 180* out somehow, lol.
True...we all have done that once or twice in our building lives.....
 
you don't want to burn up your starter either.......

Are you running the "orange" box with that distributor?
 
carb was purchased brand new, although it does seem like its squirting quite a bit of fuel into the manifold.. flooding could certainly be something to dig deeper into.. I will pull the plugs.. also yes orange box, but if im getting spark on all cylinders I figured the ecu wouldn't be a factor..
 
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