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Noisey tappet only on cold start up

JMHO o not add zddp to SN oils
buy one with the Zn Ph level U need
those made for non roller MB and BMW work
new base stocks are so good they do not need any additive so they o not shear down
That's how they get the 20,000 ile spec
 
To the OP. Only if the oil doesn't solve your problem, I had a set of Edelbrock push rods eat themselves. Make sure the ball on the end of the pushrod is round.
 
Ford issued a TSB on 302s years ago about this very problem.
It was the Fram filter.
A friend had the problem and switched filters. Problem solved.
 
Fram...Orange Can of Death
WIX Racing Filters for high flow applications and WIX XP for synthetic oil applications (Driver)...IMO.
 
Okay so the engine is fresh top to bottom right? Why are you running such heavy oil? I agree with Turbine68, change the weight of oil to 10-30 if the bearing clearances are where they should be on a fresh street engine.
The higher the number the thicker the oil
 
Hi all

Wonder if you can help with a rather frustrating noise.
I've recently completed the top end of my mopar 440 (fitted to a Jensen interceptor) and I get a reasonably loud ticking noise (I'm assuming tappet) for about 5 or 6 seconds only when starting after leaving the car overnight. I think it is only coming from one side and perhaps towards the front of the rocker covers. Once it goes the engine sounds great and I can start it all day and there is no noise. I only get it briefly on initial startup after the car has been left overnight.

As part of the rebuild the engine has new edelbrock ally e-street heads, edelbrock performer cam and lifters, pushrods comp cams roller rockers. It set the lifter pre-load to ¾ turn initially and tried reducing to ½ turn but this didn't make any difference.

The cam break in went well, the tappets were noisily for the first minute or two but were then quiet.


Oil wise, I'm running Lucas classic car oil 20/50 and a Fram filter.

Any thoughts on what I should do here. Do I just live it as a feature, try messing about with the pre-load or perhaps try different oils / filters.

Thanks for any advice,

Alex, London UK
I run Valvoline 10/30 VR1 High Zinc oil with WIX oil filters in my 440, try that.
 
you still do not need a "thick" oil at start up
you need quick lube
it all evens out to the big number once warmed up
It's not that the 0 oils thicken up
It that they do not thin down with heat
and they do not shear down - they stay the same- not so with 20-50 or 10 x anything
 
Zero weight oils are for use in extremely cold temps or in engines with very close clearances.

Use what is recommended.
 
They do not even make what was recommended anymore
0 wt oils flow better atstart up even the summer inso cal
and srart up is where you get the most wear
gm now recommends 0W-20 where the book in the dash says 5W
pick the high number for your build use
lower low number is better
 
Who doesn't make 10-30 or 10-40?

What engines is GM recommending 0 or 5 wt oils?
 
My bet is , you have a lifter leaking down ..takes several hours. I don't think there are any lifters made in the USA anymore.. except for maybe a high dollar racing set. I expect even the " name brand" are China or Mexico. I had a machine shop do a full overhaul a year ago and I asked about the lifters he said " they come in a quality kit that I use , don't know the brand" Yeah, right. they still leak down and make noise for few seconds , and I'm not using strong valve springs................MO.
Melling still makes lifters in the USA. So does John Callies and Morel. Johnson Lifters as well. :)
 
everyone makes 10 30 and 10 40
but why?
at least 90s
For older engines with larger bearing clearances. Flat LIFTERS.
Engines today run tighter clearances so they need thinner oil. It also improves mpg a wee bit. And they use roller LIFTERS.
Back when na$car used separate engines for qualifying they used 0 wt oil for that extra 1 or 2 hp.
 
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