Noob Question

[CYB3RKN1GHT]

So I am looking to purchase my first Charger a 1973 SE, and I just want to get an opinion of what some of you more seasoned professionals think she is worth. Took me awhile to find all the bells and whistles I was looking for.
Here is what I know about her.

It has been completely torn down and coated the frame and all under body with POR15, and has some putty work done to the rear quarter panel but unsure on extent.
7.2 440 BB (not original and needs new radiator) but turns over.
new stainless steel brake lines
brakes rebuilt
power windows
factory power sunroof (non working)
New 727 Torque flight transmission rebuilt
Cheetah Shifter
New 3.55 rear end with sure grip
Tuff Wheel
New Carpet
Headman Headers-ceramic coated

Interior needs work but it has all the parts needed to put it together.

 

[shag766]

welcome aboard:headbang: to new for me to have an opinion, sorry.

 

[70rr-brian]

Yeah anything after 70 is kinda out of my area of comfort. Being a 73 and in the shape you describe though I will throw out 5-8k. While it shared the body with the 71 charger...by 73 these were really no longer muscle cars in my opinion. Just government regulated weak shells of their former glory. But nothing stopping you from making it a real good running car. I just wouldn't pay more than 5-8k for it. It will never have the appeal if restored to original as a 71 or earlier car.

Again, just my opinion. I am sure lots will disagree with me though.

 

[YY1]

I like!

Was it a 318 car, or a BB car?

Carefull with "torn down" and coated with POR 15.
The POR stands for Paint Over Rust, and that's just what some people do.

Didn't think they had power s/r in 73, just manual.

Care to post the asking price?

For a while I was watching these very carefully.
I've seen nice ones go for anywhere between $3500 and 10K.

 

[CYB3RKN1GHT]

I like!

Was it a 318 car, or a BB car?

Carefull with "torn down" and coated with POR 15.
The POR stands for Paint Over Rust, and that's just what some people do.

Didn't think they had power s/r in 73, just manual.

Care to post the asking price?

For a while I was watching these very carefully.
I've seen nice ones go for anywhere between $3500 and 10K.

He says it was originally a BB but haven't seen the vin number to verify that, Also I found out as well that the exhuast is just jerry rigged together right now. He was asking 8k but says 7K is his bottom dollar, but I feel it is worth more along the line of 5 - 6K in its present condition. Also can anyone tell me what kind of scoop hood that is? I have never seen one on a Charger before maybe on a Road Runner if my memory serves me correctly. Is it better, rarer, worth more then a buldge hood?

 

[Mooky]

if thats the original hood i have never seen one before with scoops like that...thats a solid 3-4k car if the rear quarters aren't completely destroyed as they are one of the hardest things to get replacement wise for this body...71-72 not so bad but there is a more defined body line in the 73-74 chargers so using the earlier ones would be a tuff match...its about a cool 1k for skins through timco....if its an ac 400 bb car stock floor console then its a good 4-4500 car in this area if it runs...as stated the 73-74's are close but not the same to the collectors...best to build the hell out of it and enjoy it...I have a 73 se 400 bench car that I love to death...quick comfy and sharp looking ......if you looking to resale after some labor best to shop for a 71-72 for the same money or get the guy down a bit on the 73...but just my 2 cents...you never know...nice car and welcome

 

[fla 66 cuda]

It don't look bad but mine did not either then everything changed when we began working on it i agree with the other poster 3-4 k that's it 7k is steep for that car.

 

[YY1]

If the quarters are excellent, and it's a 400/440 car, then 7K maybe, as long as the frame/firewall/cowl is not rusted and the interior is good.
Having bad paint hurts, but at least you're not paying for paint that has to be redone.
That has to be a fabricated scoop. No value add, possibly detraction.

Look at the cowl to firewall seam, on the cowl around the hinges, and at the seam under the A pillar wit hthe door open and the kick panel removed.

Also look at the frame wher the K frame isolators are, and look at the big bolt that goes through the isolator, holding the K frame to the frame horns.

Look closely at the rear wheel wells and lips, and the tops of the front fenders near bumper.