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Not Charging!!!

okiemopar

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Durant, Okla. South Central Okla.
70 RoadRunner 383 auto, every thing is new. I took the RR to a show yesterday and on the way the amp gauge started going from charge to discharge. I have all new alternater, regulater and engine wiring. When I started home it stayed on dischard and run my battery down. It was even making my tach jump when I turned a signal on. Where do I need to start? The only thing I haven't replaced is the VR, do i need to change this? I'm going to pull the new alternater and get it checked. Any thoughts are ideals on this? Thanks Ronnie
 
yes,,,change the voltage regulator. the body is the ground so make sure you have a good clean mating surface when you put it on
 
Easy test for the alt is to pull the positive post on the battery with the car running.If it stays running the alt is good.
 
70 RoadRunner 383 auto, every thing is new. I took the RR to a show yesterday and on the way the amp gauge started going from charge to discharge. I have all new alternater, regulater and engine wiring. When I started home it stayed on dischard and run my battery down. It was even making my tach jump when I turned a signal on. Where do I need to start? The only thing I haven't replaced is the VR, do i need to change this? I'm going to pull the new alternater and get it checked. Any thoughts are ideals on this? Thanks Ronnie

The voltage reg. is a new MP one so every thing on it is new. I'm going to check the ground and then put another reg. on it if it doesn't work. What should the alt. be putting out with it idling? I've got to get this fixed because we are suppose to go to a show next week a lot farther than we went yesterday. So I need all the help I can get on this. Thanks Ronnie
 
should be putting out 12V +/- one volt at idle at the battery. i thought your main post said you DID NOT put on a new voltage regualtor....or did you put a new one on in the past hour? lol
 
I went through two or three voltage regulators prior to finding a good-working unit, so I wouldn't count it out. Make sure you disconnect the battery, and ground the voltage regulator prior to installation. Connect all connections to the regulator prior to applying power through the system again.
 
Easy test for the alt is to pull the positive post on the battery with the car running.If it stays running the alt is good.


And if it DOESN"T stay running it DOES NOT AUTOMATICALLY MEAN that the alternator is bad. It can still be the voltage regulator causing the problem. Or a problem in the wiring with VR and ALT. Or corrosion, or a bad ground, or....??? Get the drift?

What I'm saying is, this test is not a conclusive way to troubleshoot the charging system.

What your test does tell you is, if it runs, "Charging System IS working". If it dies, "Charging System is NOT working". Doesn't tell you what part of the charging system is bad.
 
should be putting out 12V +/- one volt at idle at the battery. i thought your main post said you DID NOT put on a new voltage regualtor....or did you put a new one on in the past hour? lol


A fully charged battery at rest, with the engine OFF should read about 12.8 Volts or even slightly more. With a properly operating charging system and the engine running at 800 RPM idle, you should see about 13.5 to 14.0 volts at the battery.

If you only have 12 volts (or less) at the battery with the engine running, you are in a DISCHARGE mode and the battery will eventually drain.
 
I went through two or three voltage regulators prior to finding a good-working unit, so I wouldn't count it out. Make sure you disconnect the battery, and ground the voltage regulator prior to installation. Connect all connections to the regulator prior to applying power through the system again.

This is good, sound, and practical advice!
 
I checked the alt. and it was reading 11.55 at the back while it was running. I haven't replaced any thing on it yet but it is all new. It is a 60 amp alt. on it. I'm going to check the ground on the voltage regulater in the morning. The car was just all painted and it may be the ground. Would the reg. make the alter. show a low out put? Ronnie
 
I checked the alt. and it was reading 11.55 at the back while it was running. I haven't replaced any thing on it yet but it is all new. It is a 60 amp alt. on it. I'm going to check the ground on the voltage regulater in the morning. The car was just all painted and it may be the ground. Would the reg. make the alter. show a low out put? Ronnie

I had a similar issue if it turns out to not be the voltage regulator. If your battery is re-located to the trunk, and you are running your pos (+) wire to the starter, your factory wiring could be to blame. I ran an additional wire, off of my alternator to my starter relay (that in turns, bypasses the entire interior wiring, etc.) and went from 11.75-12V to 13.5-14V (via voltmeter). A simple way to check if this works, is to run an electrical wire from the alternator output to the battery in the trunk (just run outside of the car) and check your voltage with the voltmeter then. I ran in circles trying to figure this out, and finally did my homework and created a solution without re-wiring the entire car. Hope this helps!
 
I checked the alt. and it was reading 11.55 at the back while it was running. The car was just all painted and it may be the ground. Would the reg. make the alter. show a low out put? Ronnie

Yes absolutely, but you don't have a "low output" at 11.55 volts. That is "NO OUTPUT". You are just seeing the voltage from the battery at the alternator stud while the ignition system is drawing it down lower and lower.

Most likely your Voltage Regulator is not turning the alternator on at all, and this can likely be due to a lack of a ground at the Voltage Regulator since you have recently painted the car.
 
Checked the VR for ground and it was grounded, put a new VR on it and it is working good now. This has not been working since I got the car going I just had not used the head lites any on it. Thanks every one on the help now I'm ready to go. Thanks Again Ronnie
 
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