NSS bad?

[440beep]

Car is a 69 Super Bee with column shift 727.

This morning I spliced in a new NSS harness plug as the original one fell off the NSS and melted on the headers. After the splice, the car fired right up using the ignition key. Went to the gas station and then car would not start with the key, so embarrassingly I had to short the starter relay to get her started. I got home and read the service manual and it states to check the NSS, check continuity from the NSS center pin to the tranny case. The test light does not light up. I checked this with the key in both the "run" position and "off" position and test light does not light.

Is this a sure sign of a bad NSS? I'd prefer it be the starter relay (much easier to replace). Just want to check before replacing the NSS and having tranny fluid spill out making a mess on the headers and me.

TIA!

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Must be checked in the start position of the ignition switch, with trans in neutral or park.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Ignore that last post. Ignition switch is irrelevant for continuity test

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

Center pin to case with transmission in PARK and/or NEUTRAL. Any other position will not give you the ground that is needed.

Then check continuity of the harness. Center pin on the NSS plug to the Brown wire terminal of the Starter Relay. This is how the relay gets its "ground" from the NSS when in Park/Neutral.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Hello it's me again. If you run a jumper wire from the relay ground terminal to a good ground, and it cranks over, then it is the nss, or the wire going to it, or shift
linkage that is slightly out of adjustment. If it doesn't crank then it is the relay, or the power circuit from the ignition switch. On my car it is the yellow wire.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

Yes, yellow wire to starter relay is the +12 volt start signal coming from the ignition switch. Both the "start" signal and the "ground" signal are needed at the starter relay at the SAME time in order for the starter relay to close and crank the engine.

 

[440beep]

So I did the jumper wire test, and car turned over with the key. Checking the plug continuity, here's something funny. The plug has violet and solid black wires on the outside positions, and black wire with yellow tracer in the middle. So I spliced the harness wires to the NSS plug matching the wires. However, the FSM shows the black wire with tracer in an outside position, not the center. I have no continuity on the center wire (brown) from the relay to the plug end. I cut the NSS plug off, exposed the harness wires, and checked continuity of the harness brown wire and nothing. WTF?!?!

Hello it's me again. If you run a jumper wire from the relay ground terminal to a good ground, and it cranks over, then it is the nss, or the wire going to it, or shift
linkage that is slightly out of adjustment. If it doesn't crank then it is the relay, or the power circuit from the ignition switch. On my car it is the yellow wire.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

If you don't have continuity in the wire from the center terminal on the nss connector to the terminal that connects to the starter relay then that is your problem. What ever the color the relay wire is, that color should go to the center pin. The wire could be broken inside also.

 

[440beep]

before I start my internet search, any idea if someone makes a complete wiring harness for the NSS?

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

http://www.megapartsusa.com/proddetail.asp?prod=124-HU232N

https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/hu232n

http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/pro...8-late/cPath/347_136_280_375/products_id/7791

 

[440beep]

yep, found one. Thanks for the help guys!

 

[440beep]

It hit me this morning, I should be able to run a jumper wire from the starter relay ground lead down to the NSS center pin (with NSS harness plug removed), and if all is good, the car should start with the key, correct? And at least then I would know that the NSS is good.

Then recheck the NSS harness.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

You are correct! Temporary fix/check.

 

[440beep]

Totally wasted my time last night with wrong/incorrect/unrealized troubleshooting methods.

You are correct! Temporary fix/check.

 

[440beep]

Did the electrical testing correctly this time, NSS is good, NSS harness is good, so instead of using butt connectors for the new NSS harness plug I soldered it on instead and made sure I had the correct center wire. Car fires up now with the key so hopefully it was merely crappy butt connections. (also got a new harness as back up).

Thanks everyone for the help!