kb67mopar
Well-Known Member
Alright guys, anybody who has followed my build knows by know I put an NV3500 5-speed behind my hemi in my Coronet. Now while I haven't been on any long drives or tested its longevity I can tell you it works and moves the car. With that said I wanted to share some details for anybody who may want to do this on their own.
The transmission is readily available at salvage yards and came behind 318's in Dakotas 96ish through 2003. Some later year v6 trucks too. They have the small block bell-housing cast into the case so no need to buy a separate part here. I paid $450 for mine with a 90 day warranty. Take note, after around 2000 they stopped providing the speedo cable output so make sure if you want to run your speedometer to get one with the cable output (wish I had noticed this).
For a clutch and flywheel I used stock parts from a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 with the NV4500 and Hemi. This clutch works perfectly with the transmission, is inexpensive (thanks amazon) and even has the right throw-out bearing.
The dust shields for the transmission are also the same as the Ram 2500 and you need two parts, one is the cast aluminum structural dust cover and the sheet metal shield. Total from the dealer around $40 for those two parts.
For clutch actuation I used the hydraulic components from the 2001 Dodge Dakota. The master cylinder will bolt in the stock location with the addition of two holes and you will have to modify the pedal to adapt to the rod or the rod to the pedal, your choice. If you buy the parts separate and need to put them together with a line, summit racing sells http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-641001/ these adapters to allow you to use a -4 AN hose. The slave cylinder in my case needed an extra 1.2" of rod length to provide full clutch throw, a trip to Menards and 5/16" bar stock made this pretty easy..took more time then anything to figure out the length.
There was no cutting needed to the floor of the car, I was able to fit it in there with just making a new rear mount and 2 notches into a couple of transmission ribs.
For the drive shaft, the stock slip yolk from my 3 speed manual actually works in the transmission. I cut two shafts and welded in an extra 3" to make it fit....this is for yard driving only, you will need to spend some money and have one custom made to your measurements.
Overall this swap went pretty well and was WAAAY cheaper then any other transmission swap. However, a word of caution, this transmission is not rated for big power. On paper they say 300 ft-lbs. My car is going to be a street driver with a stock 3G Hemi. This should live behind here pretty comfortably. If you plan to make 11 second passes down the strip with sticky tires you need the T-56 or TR6060.
If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask, you can do this with a 318 car, 340 car...they will bolt to this trans too. Overall I think this is an excellent trans to put in one of our cars for a cruiser or town tourer.
The transmission is readily available at salvage yards and came behind 318's in Dakotas 96ish through 2003. Some later year v6 trucks too. They have the small block bell-housing cast into the case so no need to buy a separate part here. I paid $450 for mine with a 90 day warranty. Take note, after around 2000 they stopped providing the speedo cable output so make sure if you want to run your speedometer to get one with the cable output (wish I had noticed this).
For a clutch and flywheel I used stock parts from a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 with the NV4500 and Hemi. This clutch works perfectly with the transmission, is inexpensive (thanks amazon) and even has the right throw-out bearing.
The dust shields for the transmission are also the same as the Ram 2500 and you need two parts, one is the cast aluminum structural dust cover and the sheet metal shield. Total from the dealer around $40 for those two parts.
For clutch actuation I used the hydraulic components from the 2001 Dodge Dakota. The master cylinder will bolt in the stock location with the addition of two holes and you will have to modify the pedal to adapt to the rod or the rod to the pedal, your choice. If you buy the parts separate and need to put them together with a line, summit racing sells http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-641001/ these adapters to allow you to use a -4 AN hose. The slave cylinder in my case needed an extra 1.2" of rod length to provide full clutch throw, a trip to Menards and 5/16" bar stock made this pretty easy..took more time then anything to figure out the length.
There was no cutting needed to the floor of the car, I was able to fit it in there with just making a new rear mount and 2 notches into a couple of transmission ribs.
For the drive shaft, the stock slip yolk from my 3 speed manual actually works in the transmission. I cut two shafts and welded in an extra 3" to make it fit....this is for yard driving only, you will need to spend some money and have one custom made to your measurements.
Overall this swap went pretty well and was WAAAY cheaper then any other transmission swap. However, a word of caution, this transmission is not rated for big power. On paper they say 300 ft-lbs. My car is going to be a street driver with a stock 3G Hemi. This should live behind here pretty comfortably. If you plan to make 11 second passes down the strip with sticky tires you need the T-56 or TR6060.
If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask, you can do this with a 318 car, 340 car...they will bolt to this trans too. Overall I think this is an excellent trans to put in one of our cars for a cruiser or town tourer.
