Oh Noooooo, not another oil break in question.......

[bandit67]

Guys, its time to purchase break in oil and I see most all the major oil brand companies make the good stuff needed, high Zinc and phosphorus compounds in various weights. Question is about using syntnentic or convention mineral base oils. No doubt about it, synthetics have been proved superior in just about every way you can compare oils, but I , being an old fart have never believed in using a synthetic in our old sixties, seventies engines using flat tappet cams and lifters until several thousands of miles of break in have occurred. New, tighter engines, different story. But , it seems most all the major players sell this break in stuff as a synthetic. Am I dealing with old , outdated fuzzy logic in my head and its time to move ahead, or any of you share my thoughts.....thanks.....

 

[Jerry Hall]

In my old cars I use real oil not pretend oil. In the new stuff I use what is recommended in the owner's manual.

 

[bearman]

Not to be a smartass but watch some videos on how well oil of all brands stand up against each other. Most oil is a base one stock then the additive package is put in. Then you have the blend oil part oil part syn. Then you have the pure syn. I believe you can break in the engine on what you feel best and then pick what you will run in it. But that's just me I like syn oil and will use it for everything.

 

[Frank Mopar]

The topic says it all.

 

[Nate S]

Breaking in is inherently a wearing-in process, otherwise it wouldn't be anything at all right? The synthetic oil mostly lasts longer but it does lubricate a bit better too. So if you lubricate better while wearing-in, you do less of the wearing and more burnishing. That's why most people break in old engines (at least OE builds with cast iron rings) with regular oil. Once break in is done use whatever you like.

 

[khryslerkid]

Penn Grade makes a specific non synthetic oil just for break-in. There's a couple more brands that do also. No additive needed. I don't like the idea of a additive anyway if you're buying the proper oil for the engine you have.

A synthetic will not allow proper break-in.

 

[R413]

Do they make a synthetic break in oil? I’ve not seen one.

Don’t get fancy. Buy a break in oil. You know one that says “break in oil” right on the label.

Mixing in zinc is no way to go, the detergent in modem shelf oil fights your zinc additive and won’t let it do it’s job. Go buy the right oil to start. How much did the new engine cost?

Talk to your machinist, what Piston rings do you have? Generally start with conventional oil then switch to synthetic after rings are seated.

 

[slepr1]

x2
Joe Gibbs Driven break in oil.

 

[69Bee]

Use Driven (formally Joe Gibbs) Break-In oil, either BR30 (5W30) or BR (15W50). After the break-in, change the filter, and continue to use the break-in oil if you desire up to 400 miles or 30 days. If you want to change it right after break-in, that is fine too. After your finished with the break-in oil, use Driven products: HR1 (15W50), HR2 (10W30), or HR5 (10W40) as you desire. I would discourage synthetic use in a flat tappet cam engine as I have lost two to this I feel. Synthetic works better with roller cams, and a conventional works better for flat tappet cams. I would also highly discourage you to use regular oil with the zinc additive (ZDDP) as it would need to mix with the oil, and you would be doing break-in with unprotected oil. Also, the additive method is not as effective and had some drawbacks. Just stick with the pre-mixed "High Zinc" oils...

 

[Hey-O]

It is said to use standard oil high in ZDDP. Don’t use any type of blend or synthetic oil till you have 2,500 to 3,500 miles on the engine. Again, many say to switch to synthetic later rather than sooner. Synthetics are said to be too slippery and will basically STOP the break in of any engine once it is added. This is why it is best to just stay away from synthetic oil till you are completely sure the engine is broken in, which for me as with any new car I buy, I change oil the first time at five hundred miles. This is the way I have always done it, but this is just my opinion.

 

[DeltaV]

Thoroughly mix three jars of this pumice to your oil before pouring into crankcase. Change oil and filter after 4,000 miles or change after 8,000 miles for a really good break-in.

 

[bandit67]

Thanks for chipping in Guys. My local shop had the Royal Purple brand , Engine Break IN Oil for flat tappet cams on hand and I grabbed some to go. Thats when I noticed it said , Synthetic and I chose to back off of using that. I ll see what else they can get me or I will have to mail order in something. These guys are my local guys and really try to save me some cash whenever possible, and I support them. Heres to a trouble free break in......

 

[bandit67]

Thoroughly mix three jars of this pumice to your oil before pouring into crankcase. Change oil and filter after 4,000 miles or change after 8,000 miles for a really good break-in.
View attachment 993161

Bet that would really polish yer crank......

 

[khryslerkid]

Thats when I noticed it said , Synthetic and I chose to back off of using that.

Is it this?
https://www.royalpurple.com/product/engine-break-in-oil/

 

[bandit67]

Yes, thats it. As you can see it says synthetic twice, embossed and printed on the label. But , as I read the script it states mostly conventional oil with additives. Ha Ha, I should have read the fine print...thanks kk...