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Who has NEVER had a cam or lifter go bad?

I have never had any problems but it's also been 20+ years since I put one in. I've been watching various vids on the tube getting informed better on issues. I am concerned though as the Indy engine for the 65, built in 13, was supplied with a Comp SFT. They broke it in and dyno'd it, but I personally have not run it. I'm hoping that since Indy is a MAJOR Comp customer that Comp had better qc for that. The 67 wagon has a Comp one in it that falls into the current problem child versions. So far, so good. If it does go tits up, I'll put a Hughes in thats better suited for the car. The current one is overkill for that.
My prior cam swaps consisted of Sig Erson, Camonics[ used to work for Racer Brown], Crane and Mopar Performance.
 
It always bothered me that they removed the oil hole from rod bearings. Could this be associated with camshaft failure? Not enough splash? Seems like a coincidence.
 
I know you said "never" had it happen, but that wont get the thread going. So I will say that I have had it happen to me recently on a SBC. Cheap cam went flat within 5-10 minutes of first fire on a break in stand. The vendor that I bought it from blamed it on the VR1 oil. Flattened 15 of the lobes.
I have since replaced it with a "made in USA" cam, as well as all new bearings, and it broke in fine. I used Comp cam lube and break in oil the second time.
 
Had a mopar 484 cam for many many years, no problem with the cam itself but didn't give me the vacuum I wanted for my brakes, 14 in
Switched to mr six pack cam and his lifters, much better idle and vacuum but freaking noisy as hell, and they leaked down. replaced the comp cams lifters that he provided with isky and best of both worlds... 18 in of vacuum and quiet as can be.
Many years and miles and all is still good!
 
I've never lost a cam or lifter, but with today's cams and lifters it's hit and miss, you never know whatcha got. With flat tappets I use a lighter spring load for break in and afterwards I go to the higher spring rate.... the guys that I've known that lost a cam during break in ran too high seat pressure initially.
 
Lots of cams and engine builds ( mostly comp) no failures. Checking in.
 
The key here.
Now I’m taking out all the old engines lifters to send to a company who will regrind them. Luckily in changing cams and even switching from one engine to the other (knock on wood) none have went bad. One cam had triple springs on it and I raced that engine for three years, same cam has been in a 440 for 30 years and still ok. OLD STUFF.
I’m looking into an attachment to install on my Kwic Way valve grinder to grind the lifters myself. Might have to make one up?!
 
It always bothered me that they removed the oil hole from rod bearings. Could this be associated with camshaft failure? Not enough splash? Seems like a coincidence.
That seems to be the issue with the new Gen III engines, not enough splash at idle, you might have hit on the problem.
 
Heard a lot of bad from Comp Cams but my biggest gripe with them was customer service and having tech help that didn't know anything. The customer service was getting the wrong stuff and having to send it back and re-order. Anyways, never had to deal with a flat cam but quit building engines probably around the late 90's.
 
Now I’m taking out all the old engines lifters to send to a company who will regrind them.
There were a few places that offered this service but I lost contact with them. Who do you use?
 
There were a few places that offered this service but I lost contact with them. Who do you use?
I’ve never sent any yet but Trend, Racer Brown in Baltimore and the cam grinder at Oregon cams can do them, they said piece of cake. At the time it was $75 a set. Haven’t had to send any out because I still have 4-5 nos sets from the 60s-70s.
 
Shoot, I'd pay $75 a set to have stuff done. I ought to start pulling old lifters just to have cores!
 
I asked this because I am considering a cam swap and I am once again wrestling with the option of going with a roller cam.
There are a few turnoffs that aren’t major but they do stick out.
Cost: this car is a toy for me. It is not a necessity. That means that money I spend on it isn’t based on need.
I don’t need to swap in another cam, I want to. The cam, lifters, distributor drive, pushrods, timing cover, cam button and gaskets will be about triple the cost of a flat tappet hydraulic setup.
Complexity: I haven’t done this before but I’m sure I can figure it out.
I have had success and failures with cams in this engine so I don’t blame the block or the oiling system.
If I felt more confident, I’d just move ahead with a hydraulic flat tappet.
 
I've been watching some of this gents vids. Smart mofo. You may need to back it up to the beginning.
 
I'm happy to say I never had a failure on the one and only one I have changed. Thanks to all the great knowledge and skills on this site, I gained the confidence to put in a voodoo 703 cam on my 383 about 2years ago. Bought all the equipment to make sure the cam was indeed what it said it was. New lifters, springs, valve seals, and new timing chain. Put it all together, did all checks and precautions that were needed and with a whole lot of luck everything went well.

As you can tell I'm late to this game and this project will be my one and only. In addition, I have done brakes, rebuilt front end and countless other new adventures that I never did before. A/c is going to my next new adventure. For most of my adult life I did all the usual weekend maintenance on my vehicle's to keep them running.
 
I've been watching some of this gents vids. Smart mofo. You may need to back it up to the beginning.

Listening to that voice takes a LOT of patience. I agree that he is sharp but that voice ....
 
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