Oil filter mounting unit.

[Unkle Krusty]

Hi folks. I checked the manual, and the previous threads.
Cleaning the engine before installing new bits. The part that the oil filter screws on to.
It looks removable, but I can not find any info. I would like to clean it.
My Haynes manual says engines up to 78 require extra fiddling to remove the sump / pan.
The sump dropped down fine on my 77 318. Have the pump off for cleaning.
Does the wyre mesh piece remove easily. The ring that holds it in place appears to be crimped.
But does it expand like a piston ring. If it all stays in place, I can blast it with air.
Inside the pump, are the gears readily assessable? Cleaning and painting today.
318 is out of the B200 camper van. Easy to get at bits.
Assembly real soon.

 

[RJRENTON]

Hi folks. I checked the manual, and the previous threads.
Cleaning the engine before installing new bits. The part that the oil filter screws on to.
It looks removable, but I can not find any info. I would like to clean it.
My Haynes manual says engines up to 78 require extra fiddling to remove the sump / pan.
The sump dropped down fine on my 77 318. Have the pump off for cleaning.
Does the wyre mesh piece remove easily. The ring that holds it in place appears to be crimped.
But does it expand like a piston ring. If it all stays in place, I can blast it with air.
Inside the pump, are the gears readily assessable? Cleaning and painting today.
318 is out of the B200 camper van. Easy to get at bits.
Assembly real soon.

Perhaps you should consider using MOPAR Factory Service Manual, for your specific year and model, rather than the generic Motors or Haynes, which give a overview rather anything specific........just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON

 

[493 Mike]

Hi folks. I checked the manual, and the previous threads.
Cleaning the engine before installing new bits. The part that the oil filter screws on to.
It looks removable, but I can not find any info. I would like to clean it.
My Haynes manual says engines up to 78 require extra fiddling to remove the sump / pan.
The sump dropped down fine on my 77 318. Have the pump off for cleaning.
Does the wyre mesh piece remove easily. The ring that holds it in place appears to be crimped.
But does it expand like a piston ring. If it all stays in place, I can blast it with air.
Inside the pump, are the gears readily assessable? Cleaning and painting today.
318 is out of the B200 camper van. Easy to get at bits.
Assembly real soon.

You can just unbolt the pump cover to access the internals if you want to inspect the unit but, it shouldn't be necessary. I wouldn't use compressed air as you may dislodge something and force it into the pump.
Mike

 

[Cranky]

The pickup tube/screen does not come off easily....or it shouldn't.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

There was a bit of sludge on the pick up screen. I soaked it for a while in the parts washer. The air blew out the sludge.
It is clean enough. The 7/16 head bolts, 5 of them, were quite snug. I am thinking of using some loktite on them.
The pump should self prime being deep in the oil.

Tomorrow I will study where the oil filter screws on. A quick peek suggests it should unscrew from the block. Not the filter, the part still in the block.

 

[Cranky]

There was a bit of sludge on the pick up screen. I soaked it for a while in the parts washer. The air blew out the sludge.
It is clean enough. The 7/16 head bolts, 5 of them, were quite snug. I am thinking of using some loktite on them.
The pump should self prime being deep in the oil.

Tomorrow I will study where the oil filter screws on. A quick peek suggests it should unscrew from the block. Not the filter, the part still in the block.

Ok, the pickup screen is bolted to the pump.....I was thinking big block. Been too long since working on a small block.

 

[493 Mike]

There was a bit of sludge on the pick up screen. I soaked it for a while in the parts washer. The air blew out the sludge.
It is clean enough. The 7/16 head bolts, 5 of them, were quite snug. I am thinking of using some loktite on them.
The pump should self prime being deep in the oil.

Tomorrow I will study where the oil filter screws on. A quick peek suggests it should unscrew from the block. Not the filter, the part still in the block.

It may have a "square" hole in the center which will accept a rachet square drive. You will need gaskets for replacement.
Mike

 

[dvw]

The oil adapter filter plate will come off. It has a gasket underneath. Nothing behind it except some galley plugs.
Doug

 

[toolmanmike]

Are you talking about an oil filter adapter or does your filter screw directly to the block?

 

[Unkle Krusty]

Thank you men. The filter is stock and screws on. The part that it screws to, should come off. It looks like it should. I am cleaning the block before assembly. The crank and pistons have not been touched.
I have a plethora of gaskets that came with the expensive kit.

I added that expensive word above, as I had trouble with immerse previously.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

Manual said to prime the oil pump, so I filled it with oil, and bolted it in place. had 3 bolts, but it only needs 2. Put the gaskets on the sump, and bolted it in place. Not too snug on the bolts said Doug. I cleaned around the block side of the oil filter. Thought I had a filter, but have not found it so far. I removed the old cam and gears. Tomorrow I will bung in the new cam and lifters. A keen kid would continue working and do it today, but my union has said I did enough today.

 

[Cranky]

Thank you men. The filter is stock and screws on. The part that it screws to, should come off. It looks like it should. I am cleaning the block before assembly. The crank and pistons have not been touched.
I have a plethora of gaskets that came with the expensive kit.

I added that expensive word above, as I had trouble with immerse previously.

Yup, the thread that the oil filter screws to does come off....and I like to put a thin film of grease on the oil pump rotor. Yup, I open up my pumps and check the rotor clearance with the plate. Take the plate off and use a depth mic to see where the rotor is in the cavity of the pump. Anything less than .0015 will get fixed. I got to rebuild a guy's engine because his pump only had .001 and something got in it and locked it up breaking the pump drive. Someone else built it and it happened within 100 miles. That engine build is a whole nother story!

 

[Unkle Krusty]

My pump and oil pressure were fine. So I just cleaned the pump and checked to be sure it spun / turned okay.
I recall someone had snapped a pump drive shaft. I will check the drive shaft again before I slide the new cam in.
Old cam is in good condition, so too is the rest of the engine.
Cam chain was sloppy, and the cam still had the fibre gear.

 

[RemCharger]

My pump and oil pressure were fine. So I just cleaned the pump and checked to be sure it spun / turned okay.
I recall someone had snapped a pump drive shaft. I will check the drive shaft again before I slide the new cam in.
Old cam is in good condition, so too is the rest of the engine.
Cam chain was sloppy, and the cam still had the fibre gear.

A snapped driveshaft is commonly from a piece of crap getting sucked in locking up the pump.. otherwise there's no reason the shaft would just " break"

 

[Unkle Krusty]

Back to the pan gasket if I may. With the two rubber pieces of the gaskets in place, do folks trim the cork gasket at the ends, or overlap the cork on to the rubber bits.
I did the overlap, figuring the cork would compress, flatten out, over the rubber parts. The last two rear bolts were finger tight. The non trimmed rubber pull thru tabs had not been trimmed, so they interfered with a socket.

 

[493 Mike]

Back to the pan gasket if I may. With the two rubber pieces of the gaskets in place, do folks trim the cork gasket at the ends, or overlap the cork on to the rubber bits.
I did the overlap, figuring the cork would compress, flatten out, over the rubber parts. The last two rear bolts were finger tight. The non trimmed rubber pull thru tabs had not been trimmed, so they interfered with a socket.

I hope you added some silicone to the corners where the cork and rubber meet.
Mike

 

[Unkle Krusty]

I hope you added some silicone to the corners where the cork and rubber meet.
Mike

Did that.
Just put the cam in and lifters. Checking the cam cover and water pump for fit. Took it apart last November I think.

 

[dvw]

Trim it as we talked about. The pan hasn't been touched on this motor in 21 years. This picture was from 2015, looks the same today.
Doug