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oil question

4eyedblonde

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I run 20W50 full synth in my mustang 5L,
Question is, the car I bought has a 69 built 440, prev owner has no idea what oil he has in it. Is 20W50 full synth race oil over kill for this motor or is 10W30 or 5W20 better for street use?
What is the general recommendation for the bigblocks?
 
I'm assuming the 440 has a flat tappet cam in it, so I recommend a high zinc/phosphorus racing oil like Valvoline VR-1 or Brad Penn 10-30 to protect the cam lobe surfaces. If you have a roller in there you can use just about any good quality oil. I've been using Valvoline VR-1 in different motors for years and haven't had any cam/lifter issues. There's a lot of different opinions on this subject and I'm sure you will get a few.
 
The viscosity goes by climate and I think if you are in the 70 deg range 10-30 is recommended. I'm running 15-40 in my 440 and it seems happy. Unless it's very cold where you are I wouldn't run the 5-20. And as it says above, you want to run an oil that has the proper level of additives. Look for an SAE rating of Sl or lower, or something that says high levels of zinc and phos. I wouldn't use SAE SM and now SN on my door hinges. Synthetic is OK but really a waste of money if you don't have big shifts in temperature. This is where synthetics excel - superior cold flow and high heat protection.
 
At the recomndation of some on this board, I run Shell Rotella T. It's diesel oil and has all the good stuff in it at a fraction of the cost of the racing oil and brad penn. Not trying to saynit's 'better' but it' cheaper and i understand it's good enough for a non race application.
 
10-40 Amsoil signature synthetic in my 440. High Zinc. Happy and clean for years.
 
I'm assuming the 440 has a flat tappet cam in it, so I recommend a high zinc/phosphorus racing oil like Valvoline VR-1 or Brad Penn 10-30 to protect the cam lobe surfaces. If you have a roller in there you can use just about any good quality oil. I've been using Valvoline VR-1 in different motors for years and haven't had any cam/lifter issues. There's a lot of different opinions on this subject and I'm sure you will get a few.

ok, here's a newb question...how do I know if it's a flat tappet cam? It's a 509 purple shaft..that much I do know.
 
ok, here's a newb question...how do I know if it's a flat tappet cam? It's a 509 purple shaft..that much I do know.

Any non roller cam is considered a flat tappet cam.That purple shaft is a flat tappet and needs zinc to live.
 
I am of the opinion that you shouldn't run synthetic oil in these old blocks. The newer stuff works better with the synthetic oil where our older cars were designed and built around the standard type oils. I don't run synthetic but I know of others that do in their older rides, Just my personal preference is all...cr8crshr/Tuck
 
I am of the opinion that you shouldn't run synthetic oil in these old blocks. The newer stuff works better with the synthetic oil where our older cars were designed and built around the standard type oils. I don't run synthetic but I know of others that do in their older rides, Just my personal preference is all...cr8crshr/Tuck

X2 I'm not big on running synthetic oil in older motors either. Synthetics are blended for use in newer engines that have catalytic converters and roller cams and they don't have the zinc/phosphorus content in them that older motors need.
 
Yep, and a .509 requires a bit more spring then a factory cam so the pressure on the valve train is higher. You will want "the good stuff" as far as oil goes.
 
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