Older 440 Build-ability

[Blazer85]

Pulled the 383 out of my 68 roadrunner with the thoughts of stroking it but an engine swap seems to be a better idea. The car is a 4 speed, so i know it needs the pilot hole. I met a guy at a car show last year who has a bunch of old mopar parts for sale. He has a 66 440 core motor that was out of a Chrysler imperial but he said that he had a professional machine shop drill the pilot hole. My concern is that i can find a lot of parts for a 67 up, but not much for a 66. We are planning on doing a cleaning bore, new heads or head work, cam, and manifold. Just a basic 440 street build. My two concerns are parts availability for a 66 engine, and if any major modifications would have to be done to my car. It had a 71 383 in it. Also anything in specific I should look at or for?

Thanks for the insight

 

[terzmo]

the 440 motor is not unique. Pistons//rings//rods///bearings///cam//heads//are all interchangable. The 66 727 was unique from the 67 on up

 

[71airgrabberRR]

the 440 motor is not unique. Pistons//rings//rods///bearings///cam//heads//are all interchangable. The 66 727 was unique from the 67 on up

I'm pretty sure they used a different hydraulic lifter and push rods too. I don't know if the bore diameter of the lifter was different, or if it was the height of the cup / plunger.

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I'm pretty sure this was in 1967 model year 440 engines too.

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I would go on line and look at a web site for a cam manufacturer to see if they mention anything about this in the "specs".

Hope this helps..............

 

[terzmo]

pushrods are measured with non stock cam/lifters. By NOT being unique...It is meant that rebuilding a 440 is easy because there are so many aftermarket parts out there for the blocks. NOW...if you intend to build a 66 motor to the exact parts used in it's original configuration...good luck....I'd never do that.

 

[GTX MATT]

Lifters/pushrods are different for the early engines, and 66 uses the narrow bolt pattern Carter. Everything will interchange though, you will need a set of pushrods to work with the later style lifters that come in all the kits and that everyone sells though. And you can run a later or aftermarket intake that will work with all of the common carbs.

Your engine will bolt right in, its just slightly taller. If you're running exhaust manifolds in particular the exhaust may need a little modification to the downpipes, but most likely not. Its literally a bolt in deal. Be sure to check your bellhousing alignment though.

 

[Blazer85]

Thanks for the insight, I figured it would need new pushrods and lifters no matter what we do. I've got a set of rb headers on order right now. Any advice on what you'd do for best bang for the buck? The 383 had a 509 purple cam so it had zero power until 4 grand. I want the exact opposite, will I be ok with heads, cam, and intake?

 

[71airgrabberRR]

Lifters/pushrods are different for the early engines, and 66 uses the narrow bolt pattern Carter. Everything will interchange though, you will need a set of pushrods to work with the later style lifters that come in all the kits and that everyone sells though. And you can run a later or aftermarket intake that will work with all of the common carbs.

Your engine will bolt right in, its just slightly taller. If you're running exhaust manifolds in particular the exhaust may need a little modification to the downpipes, but most likely not. Its literally a bolt in deal. Be sure to check your bellhousing alignment though.

Matt is right. The early 66-67 engines used a lifter with a different seat height for the push rod. (they are 1 gram heavier too, LOL)

Here is what I copied from Comp Cams web site showing the differences between the years. The lifters are the same bore diameter. As long as you keep the pushrod set matched with the lifters set you will be OK. Personally I would invest in an adjustable push rod to check for proper length. This becomes important if you have things done like machining the surface of your cylinder heads / block, and are planning on using a rocker arm other than a factory stock stamped steel replacement.

Now it comes down to a few other factors too. If you are planning on using a set of adjustable rockers, they will more than likely use a "cup" style push rod.


APPLICATIONS

•Chrysler


◦Big Block "B" Series: 383-440 c.i.d. ('58-'67)


◦Hemi Big Block: 426 c.i.d. ('66-'71)



SPECIFICATIONS .904” Diameter • 110g Weight • 1.91” Seat Height



APPLICATIONS
•AMC/Jeep 290-401 V8 ('66-'91)
•Chrysler 273-360 V8 ('64-'03) & 383-440 ('68-'80)



SPECIFICATIONS .904” Diameter • 109g Weight • 1.88” Seat Height

A stock 440 is fairly stout and they develop a lot of torque. The closer you keep it to stock the more street friendly it will be. (and easier to assemble with less complications from changes.)

Do your homework and ask questions. There are a lot of people here with knowledge about big blocks.

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Factory cast iron heads, with flame hardened seats for today's unleaded crap gas, (or modified with hardened inserts), a dual plane intake, and a mild cam will work just fine for what you are looking for.

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The cams and lifters will interchange as long as you keep the sets matched.

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Pushrod and lifter sets that is....................

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These Mopar Performance cams would be a decent choice.

1P4452783AC Camshaft, Hydraulic, 268/284 Adv. Duration

1P4529270AC Camshaft, Hydraulic, 268/284 Adv. Duration

1P4286677AC Camshaft, Hydraulic, 272/272 Adv. Duration

1P4452993AC Camshaft, Hydraulic, 280/280 Adv. Duration

1P4120235AC Camshaft, Hydraulic, 284/284 Adv. Duration

1P5007697AC Camshaft, Hydraulic, 284/284 Adv. Duration

and not too radical.....................