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Opinion on this 440

69clone

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Hey guys,
I am going to look at a 440 this weekend and was wondering what you more experienced guys think of it and maybe a rough estimate? No price has been brought up... We don't know much about it, I guess he bought the car and doesn't want this engine. We don't know the year or anything...yet. I will take pictures and decode it. He provided this bit of info on what he saw;
It's got some great stuff on it from what I can see without looking inside. Holley double pumper carb, Edelbrock intake, MP cast aluminum valve covers, ductile iron adjustable rockers, deep oil pan, aluminum water pump housing, MSD distributor, Hooker Super Comp headers with some 3" short pipes and a pair of big stainless steel mufflers with short downpipes.

81.jpg
 
Goodmorning, It looks like it has some nice performanceparts.
It also looks like it hasn't been running for a while, so that is always a risk; i would always take this engine apart and check it, ( if i bought it. ) so those extra costs should be counted in also.
But that's my cup of tea.
 
Well, assuming you can hear it run and all sounds and feels fine this is what I paid just south of you in Delaware.

Recently rebuilt 1969 440HP With Eddie performer intake and eddie 750cfm carb. Stock cam, MSD ignition and coil and delivery to the shop doing the swap for me.

My price $2,695.00
 
if it runs, can drive the car also and it sounds good ( all general terms as I would want to hear it, drive it etc ) ruuns out strong, I would go 2000 tops. If buying without hearing run, and I wouldn't, 500 tops. I'd rather go home with My money than buy a money pit. Check for leaks and be wary IF the motor is warm before getting there. Demand a cold start. Check water for bubbles also when running. Make sure the thermostst opens to look for the bubbles...smoke from the exhaust pipes after warmup also
 
Bought my 440 with 727 attached out of a 71 Charger--heard it run first: $750.00

If this one has already been bored, you might be limited as to what you can do. Good luck.
 
Looks like an old build. Not bad looking for the time but the PVC can't work very well without a breather cap on the other side instead of a regular cap. Looks like a line lock on it....I would say it's been set up for the track only. He doesn't know any history at all? I run the old style Isky ductile rockers and they worked fine on my old 10.60 car turning 7000+ but all that stuff wears out after awhile. Old race engines....I'm the same way. I want to see it apart. What size DP is on it? That's easy to read by the list number if the choke horn hasn't been milled off.
 
if it runs, can drive the car also and it sounds good ( all general terms as I would want to hear it, drive it etc ) ruuns out strong, I would go 2000 tops. If buying without hearing run, and I wouldn't, 500 tops. I'd rather go home with My money than buy a money pit. Check for leaks and be wary IF the motor is warm before getting there. Demand a cold start. Check water for bubbles also when running. Make sure the thermostst opens to look for the bubbles...smoke from the exhaust pipes after warmup also

Out of curiosity, what do the bubbles tell you?
 
My .02, It appears to be built for racing and has a lot of good parts, but appearances can and usually are deceiving. Even if you hear it run there may be surprises. I consider all used motors as cores to be rebuilt. This one just has a lot of parts that may be reused or sold. Spend only as much as you can afford to if it has to be rebuilt. I once bought a car that ran good on start up and had good oil pressure.... until I drove it away and it got hot and oil pressure went to Zero!! Luckily I applied my rule and could make my money back in parts.
Take care,
Norman
 
Hello. I agree with the guys. If you cant hear it run. Figure on stripping it down and tell the guy that. That would be some leverage for you. Tell him its a gamble the way it is now not hearing or knowing how it ran.
 
if you don't go threw with getting it running.witch would probably be best you didn't.I would take a socket and breaker bar and see if it turned over easily.and then if it turns over I would buy it as cheap as possible.and I would probably start around 200.00 bucks and tell him you will help pull it.and I wouldn't go over ah ( 100.00 for intake 50.00 valve covers 25.00 on the carb.elc.fan 20.00 ya start at 200.00) and go to maybe 600.00 tops.......my thuat...Artie PS I would convince him that you will have to completely rebuild and any thing more than that wouldn't be worth it.
 
oooooooya the first thing I would do is smell the oil a motor that has a bad bearings will have a weird smell.I'm sure sum engen guys will know what I'm talking about............that being said I'm willing to bet that motor will run.......Artie
 
Quote:
It's got some great stuff on it from what I can see without looking inside. Holley double pumper carb, Edelbrock intake, MP cast aluminum valve covers, ductile iron adjustable rockers, deep oil pan, aluminum water pump housing, MSD distributor, Hooker Super Comp headers with some 3" short pipes and a pair of big stainless steel mufflers with short downpipes.

Even though it looks as like its sat a while ..all those things added up = alot of money spent (even the flex fuel line connections are expensive)

Hope you can get it as cheap as possible...I mean who wants to spend alot of cash
Let him ask the first price and unless he's a tough *** you can usually negotiate it down a bit..
I say max 1300 not running
 
Thanks guys,
Yeah, It has a lot of good things on it...Which I like. The guy seems honest and told me if I like it and we work out a deal he'll tear it down and checked everything out before selling it and could change out the cam,etc if I want.
 
Thank you,
I really hope it is too. Although, I'm not afraid to walk away.
 
how much

It is all what you want to do with it if you want to race it you got a good start.but if you want a restor you have to buy lots of new parts water pump oil pan intake so on & on .if its turns over with no lock ups give him the carb intake and waterpump and $400 If you want to race it give hi $650 and call it a day.good luck with what ever you do ITS JUST GOOD IROIN:spam dragon:
 
Line-loc, electric water pump, no wiper motor and no alternator all points to a motor that was set up to race. I'd be a little concerned about the compression ratio if you're going to run it on the street. Good luck and I hope it works out for you.
 
Line-loc, electric water pump, no wiper motor and no alternator all points to a motor that was set up to race. I'd be a little concerned about the compression ratio if you're going to run it on the street. Good luck and I hope it works out for you.

Thanks, You know I had not though about that. He told me the heads (don't know what they are) were ported. Any way to check without a compression test? and this engine would have to run on the street as it's my nice day driver.
 
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