Opinions from bodywork pros

[WileE]

Driveable ? Enjoy it as is. You can do a little at a time, when budget and time allows. Attack a specific task individually. A dent here, a patch there, a seat cover today, a dash pad next week, etc, etc. Maybe a mechanical issue needs attention. Focus on one thing only. You'll be surprised, after a few weeks, after a few months, how nice you progress and the satisfaction.

 

[68BabyBlue]

Not all cars have to be restored. If you have the skills and a couple years to do the deed the car could be a nice driver. If you inspect the car and find no hidden rust (floors, frame rails etc) you can drive it as is and just enjoy it the way it is. If you want a nice shiny car and would have to pay someone to fix the issues and paint it for you I would think it's a no-go. Just my opinion of course and we really can't judge condition without seeing it in person.

When I bought Baby Blue in 1983, the car had a scabby re-paint over a nearly rust free body, and sun baked interior, still intact, but split seams everywhere and a cracked dash pad. Perfect mechanical condition, and all the electrical items worked perfectly. To this day, the car has not undergone a restoration, just had upgrades along the way, the most recent being new paint by the current owner. He and his son did the prep themselves, and the only surprise was some minor rust in the rocker panels, which they replaced. My friends who knew the car's history felt it was a shame to see the $2000 paint job I'd had done in 1985 removed, but as I said at the time, it's not my car anymore.

In the 22 years between the times I owned it, the GTX ended up with a new interior, and replacement of wear items. When I got it back in 2013, I had the radiator re-cored, and transmission seals replaced. That was it. Nice looking at 20 feet, and I was never afraid to drive it, was a regular at Carlisle, and never trailered. Had more fun with that one than any of the trailer queens that followed it. I think shiny paint is over rated. Shown below in 2021, before the new paint.

 

[koosh]

Thanks for all the replies!

 

[67 R/T CORONET]

I know its a stretch… wondering if some bodywork pros out there could take a look at these pics and provide opinions?basically looking for advice to buy or stay away? I know will need some bodywork before paint, just not sure how deep my pockets areView attachment 1766572View attachment 1766573View attachment 1766574View attachment 1766575View attachment 1766576View attachment 1766577View attachment 1766578View attachment 1766579

You have to put your eyes on it I owned a body shop for years had so many guy's buy car that looked just like this that they said I bought from a guy it's almost ready for paint 99% of the time the bad primer was hiding a disaster touch the car get under it feel it run a magnetic over it you won't regret the extra time

 

[koosh]

You have to put your eyes on it I owned a body shop for years had so many guy's buy car that looked just like this that they said I bought from a guy it's almost ready for paint 99% of the time the bad primer was hiding a disaster touch the car get under it feel it run a magnetic over it you won't regret the extra time

Is there a particular “magnet “ to use?
What should i check or expect?

 

[Wojo68]

Make sure you check the trunk.

 

[Wojo68]

I mean no disrespect. If you don’t know what you’re looking at 100 percent, PLEASE, pay an experienced body man to go with you. Don’t do what I did. I got so caught up in the outside, I didn’t look deep enough. A couple hundred can save you thousands.

 

[threewood]

Black primer over rust and dents? I would not expect an inexpensive endeavor. For $30k I'm paying $400 and flying over to look at it in person. A running, driving Second Generation would be in the $30k ballpark. The more rust, the less I would pay.

What state is the car?

Is there a particular “magnet “ to use?
What should i check or expect?

Just a good magnet. Not a refrigerator magnet. You need to check lower fenders and quarters for body filler. The harder it pulls, the more metal there. If it sticks very lightly, and pulls away easier you have filler.

You can also run your hand over panels and knock to hear the dense filler.

Rust areas...front frame rails behind the shock support, cowl, torsion bar crossmember, lower quarters, fenders, rockers, rear window filler panel between the sail panels, outer wheel houses, trunk, trunk extensions. Pretty much everywhere and even the roof if it was a vinyl top car.

 

[ynst]

I've been using an old paint thickness gauge for decades. You can still find them if you know what you're looking for.

Paint Thickness Gauge,Paint Coating Tester, Car Body Damage Detector​

Buy one of these from Amazon. They're only $14.88

Paint Thickness Gauge,Paint Coating Tester, Car Body Damage Detector,Crash-Test Check, Car Paint Inspection,Water Resistant, Great to Have When Shopping for Used car(Size:17.8x7.2x1.7cm)​

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​

• This is a magnetic paint thickness gauge. It’s magnetic tip is extremely convenient in reaching curved surfaces, and in hard to reach places.Its mechanical thickness gauge is water resistant, no batteries needed and can be used in the rain and on a dirty car.
• Colored gauge shows you exactly what you're dealing with as to thickness of metals and the paint on it, and it will easily reveal any damages.
• The tester instrument is highly accurate with a micron-level color scale due to its compatibility with digital thickness gauge. Quickly and accurately check if the vehicle has been painted in the past.
• It’s shaped as a small pen, and is made of high quality materials, making it the perfect choice to carry around and always be prepared.
• Package includes:1* Paint thickness tester

​

Visit the Parthan Store

 

[ynst]

You can also use a refrigerator magnet like the ones you get from Rock Auto with every order.

They're nowhere hear as accurate but they won't stick to the body if there's filler under the primer.

 

[koosh]

Tbanks guys…. If im told the weld seam on the quarter panels need grinding/finishing, would that not mean no filler on the bottoms?

 

[hemifiedbird]

Good points! It is not a real RT

Just remember it will cost the same if it is a plain Charger or a HEMI R/T. The work is the same

 

[koosh]

Just remember it will cost the same if it is a plain Charger or a HEMI R/T. The work is the same

Fully understand that….

 

[ynst]

I've been using an old paint thickness gauge for decades. You can still find them if you know what you're looking for.


View attachment 1769634

Paint Thickness Gauge,Paint Coating Tester, Car Body Damage Detector​

Buy one of these from Amazon. They're only $14.88

Paint Thickness Gauge,Paint Coating Tester, Car Body Damage Detector,Crash-Test Check, Car Paint Inspection,Water Resistant, Great to Have When Shopping for Used car(Size:17.8x7.2x1.7cm)​

​

​

• This is a magnetic paint thickness gauge. It’s magnetic tip is extremely convenient in reaching curved surfaces, and in hard to reach places.Its mechanical thickness gauge is water resistant, no batteries needed and can be used in the rain and on a dirty car.
• Colored gauge shows you exactly what you're dealing with as to thickness of metals and the paint on it, and it will easily reveal any damages.
• The tester instrument is highly accurate with a micron-level color scale due to its compatibility with digital thickness gauge. Quickly and accurately check if the vehicle has been painted in the past.
• It’s shaped as a small pen, and is made of high quality materials, making it the perfect choice to carry around and always be prepared.
• Package includes:1* Paint thickness tester

​

Visit the Parthan Store

Here's a pair of pictures of the one I've used for years.

You place the end against the paint and a ring on the end of the clear tube surrounds a magnet in the black portion of the tool.
The magnet "sticks" to the body. You, then, pull on the black plastic and the magnet and spring-loaded plunger stays in place still stuck to the body while the black, plastic, sleeve surrounding the magnet pulls away from the body.
Because the clear tube has a lip on the bottom, it stays in place along with the spring-loaded plunger with the magnet and the rear end of the clear plastic tube creeps down the scale at the back end as you pull back on the tool.
When the internal spring pressure overcomes the magnet, the whole tool comes loose and you, then, look at the scale and it reads the mil thickness of the paint.

While it was designed to measure paint thickness so that you can tell if the panel has been re-painted, it will also give you a quick indication if there's any body filler under the paint.

I've saved customers a lot of money over the years when checking out "professional" restorations that were actually whored up auction specials.

From experience, never go to an auction, especially a Barret Jackson auction, without one of these.

 

[Bighouse]

Is there a particular “magnet “ to use?
What should i check or expect?

Wheres the car located?

 

[1967coronet]

If you just can't live without a second gen charger then I get it.
30k for what i am reading and seeing is over the top ( JMHO )
Toss another 10k at that car your just getting started.
Now search other models of completed, gas it and go Mopars in the 40s .
I know .... it's a charger but dang.

 

[eldubb440]

don't do the crime, if you can't do the time .........

 

[torredcuda]

Tbanks guys…. If im told the weld seam on the quarter panels need grinding/finishing, would that not mean no filler on the bottoms?

What weld seam, the factory one at the roof or some patch panel or ???