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Out of sight paint input appreciated

Color Match Bedliner, Single Stage or Chassis black


  • Total voters
    11
  • Poll closed .
Thanks again gentlemen. I am kind of a dealer....of Jeep CJs w a shop the same as my user ID. I am not a wealthy dealer w deep pockets. All my decisions need to be done with an eye on resale ....someday. I want to do right by the car with my own thing and an eye on consensus for resale someday. I have to make good decisions or I don't eat.

I can see and hear the expertise from the advice given and appreciate it immensely.

By the way, the green looks great as does the fade.

Perhaps a last question....if I do the fade/overspray direction, my current primer is black as shown in my first photos. It seems I need to advise towards a light grey?

Thanks,
Rudy
One other consideration:

If your car was a 71 Hemi Cuda convertible, the answer is simple - do it 100% factory correct.

My 70 Road Runner is an original Limelight Air Gabber 4 speed, but with the 383. No 6 barrel or Hemi. Bottom line it is nothing special from a production perspective. My car is now modified so it has modern day touches to make it drive and handle better, while still maintaining a stock look. I honestly think it is more valuable the way it is than if I returned it to 100% stock.

What I'm trying to say is a car is an overall "Package". If you are going for a stock restoration then I think the factory correct method is the only way to go. If you are modifying it, then you are targeting a different audience and having the beautiful body color paint all the way underneath can appeal to people too.

Good luck whatever you decide.

Hawk
 
Thank you again.

Fyi I decided I will not do the Rhino line underneath based on this input and one thing I have experience with in my Jeeps.

When it is done it adds a lot of thickness to many surfaces that can be a bit of a chore to deal with.

My Jeeps have about a dozen drain holes that I usually don't plug. These cars seem to have 30 some and will need plugged. All the plugs would get a deburring tool or similar which makes the metal raw and prone to rusting.

All threaded holes have to be taped w a cigarette and then maybe chased w a tap.

Any structure that holds bushings or brackets gets enlarged...like the rear spring hanger or shackle bushing torsion bar holes etc. I believe it will be just enough of a nuisance to take it off the table....for me.

Maybe this will help someone in the future.

I'll still appreciate the input on primer color if I choose to do the fade/overspray effect.
 
I can see and hear the expertise from the advice given and appreciate it immensely.

By the way, the green looks great as does the fade.

Perhaps a last question....if I do the fade/overspray direction, my current primer is black as shown in my first photos. It seems I need to advise towards a light grey?

Thanks,
Rudy

I have found the factory got almost nothing under the car to prevent rust, so the primer thing isn't exactly correct either, ; but we want our cars to last more than a few years......... light/dark/black/grey would be a matter of preference, even red oxide may be an option.........none of the above suggested options are bad, just a matter of taste and how much time and effort are to be spent......so we figure out what we need vs what we want; weigh the pros and cons; consider the added time and materials issue; and make the call. It's all pretty labor intense. and time is money; especially if it's on "shop time" vs "DIY"........ I'm over 35 years in and still learning something on every job, maybe by the time I get to mine, I can get it right
 
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I have seen the job done on Hawk's car by @eldubb440 , and to be honest if I lived in the USA, and was doing a car again, I would be contacting @eldubb440 to do the work on my project. My car took a slightly different approach, but I am sure it was of a similar standard in terms of finish.

From another thread here recently....

Sorry I don't have any pictures of the spray day for my GTX. It was 2001 and cameras were the last thing on my mind that day. My car was basically done apart for the main body, and then together for the final outer base and clear. :)

Underneath was already shot with Wurth Body Shutz stone-chip protector, and then "Matt clear coated" to seal the look and make cleaning underneath the car much easier. The areas with the Body Shutz that needed colour were also shot that way - with a Matt Clear coat on top. may sound unconventional, but it suited the purpose, and it was a great end result.

Next, the interior floor pan and inside of trunk area & inners of the front fenders were base and matt clear coated - right up to the back seat area, and under the dash etc.


Once that was all cured, the car went back into the booth for another round of base coats. This time all the door jamb areas, trunk finish panel and engine bay, inside of the doors, front valance panel, trunk lid and hood - all base coated and finished with a Two-pack clear coat. This meant that we had a gun finish with no need for buffing or sanding afterwards. It also allowed for those areas to stay clean for many years after.

Final stage was to hang the doors, trunk lid and hood, valance panel...basically all bolted together as a complete car, and then it was masked up - including back-masking of the finish lines up to the previously done clear coat lines. Then we spent an entire day spraying the base and Dulon clear coats in the booth. A long day, but well worth the effort. next day, the car was removed from the oven, and unmasked. Honestly, you couldn't tell where the Dulon and Two-pack clears met up. The definition was great.

After approximately 5 months, the sanding, cutting & polishing took place on the Dulon clear coat. It already looked great, but after my painter Rodney had worked his magic....the car was unbelievable. You could read a newspaper in the reflections from 5 feet away.

Needless to say, the car was awarded Best Paint at the Muscle car show not long after in 2002, and again in 2005, and again in 2008. I stopped entering the car shows after that to give others a chance. :D
The first outing for the freshly finished car was in Feb 2002, where it took out 3rd in the Masters Class at the Concours D'Elegance here. A feat never before achieved by anything American or Muscle. Started a trend in following years....:rolleyes: That show I scored one point less than the highest paint score given in the day - and that car was a Brand new Porsche Boxster that had a big branch of a tree fall on it earlier in the judging rounds....so a bullshit call really. The Concours Judges were brutal on my GTX, and were determined to find faults. I basically lost the win by 13 points.....and all of those were 'age' points.

To this day, the paint on that GTX is still like it was done yesterday, thanks to my friend Rodney and his experience and skill. :lowdown::lowdown::lowdown:

Photo courtesy NZV8 magazine 2002....
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Taken last year....(19 years after first being painted) .....
upload_2020-10-19_8-46-46-png.png


:thumbsup:
 
thanks for the kind words Kiwi (and Hawk)...... there are a lot of talented and very capable folks out there; both on, and off this site....... a lot just depends on who is willing to go the extra mile; and it comes from both sides, the car owner, and the one who is doing the work...... I just happen to be in the middle of a job that fits the current topic; and in no way did I, or do I intend to take over the thread...... just offering up some of my actual experience
 
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