Painting interior of door - metal part 67 Coronet

[pwm72]

I would like to refinish the metal part at the top of the doors in my 67 Coronet. They are black. Does anyone have any paint (type / finish) recommendations?

 

[440 4 speed]

SEM products work quite well. Factory service manual has an area where they show tell the paint shades.

 

[R413]

Quality single stage paint for the outside of the car with hardener. That's what the factory used. Rattle cans suck.

 

[AR67GTX]

Duplicolor gloss black lacquer would work fine. Or if you have a compressor you can go on-line and order some gloss black lacquer from a lacquer supplier like Eastwood, TCP or Summit.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...niversal-gloss-black-spray-paint/dpl1/bun0100

 

[snakeoil24]

avoid all rattle cans! use two part system with hardener. If you need some i have plenty left over for gloss black. Also plenty of texture product from PPG for dash board.

 

[440 4 speed]

Is there a budget and what are the goals? It is not easy to ship paint, thinners and other flammable goods etc. If one is spending 35,000.00-40,000.00 on a paint job then it should be done like factory in my opinion.
For some of my friends and acquaintances having a nice looking driver is all they need. How many miles/kilometres are put on in a year? Do they stay inside and are inclosed trailered to shows? Too many variables to be able to tell someone else what they need.
I know of people that have a genuine love for their car and it looks like jigsaw. Very slowly it is coming along, and being improved on. Doesn’t come to car shows, because of potential ridicule most likely from people that stroke a cheque to get in and drive their car.
Off my soapbox now.

 

[1967coronet]

Just adding this... no matter what product you go with , paint the rear panels also under the qt. windows so it all matchs.

 

[AR67GTX]

Just remember, hardened urethane doesn’t often play well over the top of old, non-hardened enamels and lacquers from 40-50 years ago. So to use hardened urethane it’s advisable to strip down to metal or use an epoxy primer to seal with. You might get away with spraying urethane directly over enamel/lacquer. Just no guarantees. And be sure to get a quality respirator rated for some isocyanates exposure so you don’t poison yourself.

 

[pwm72]

Is there a budget and what are the goals? It is not easy to ship paint, thinners and other flammable goods etc. If one is spending 35,000.00-40,000.00 on a paint job then it should be done like factory in my opinion.
For some of my friends and acquaintances having a nice looking driver is all they need. How many miles/kilometres are put on in a year? Do they stay inside and are inclosed trailered to shows? Too many variables to be able to tell someone else what they need.
I know of people that have a genuine love for their car and it looks like jigsaw. Very slowly it is coming along, and being improved on. Doesn’t come to car shows, because of potential ridicule most likely from people that stroke a cheque to get in and drive their car.
Off my soapbox now.

Thanks, the exterior of the car was completed prior to my purchase, only needing the interior completed. The upper door panels are presently black, but not done well, so I am unsure if it was a rattle can job to begin with (having a few runs). I was hoping to just sand them down and respray but was hoping someone had done it before and could suggest a paint manufacturer / finish. The car is just a driver - not a concourse car...it's an R/T tribute convertible. Current paint finish does not appear to be gloss and not flat...somewhere in-between (satin / matte?) Was just hoping for some direction.
Thanks

 

[AR67GTX]

Should be gloss. As mentioned above the interior paint on doors and rear seat panels was simply the acrylic lacquer or enamel used on the exterior. I say this hoping Dodge didn’t do something different. They did vary from Plymouth in sometimes unexpected ways. One exception is the metal dash on 66 - 70 cars that received a suede finish. Steering column on 66 cars was gloss and on 67 cars was suede. Not sure on later years but I think suede.

Sounds like they have been painted before. That’s a reason I suggested lacquer. It’s not as tough or durable as urethane but on interior surfaces it doesn’t typically get as much abuse or weathering. You can spray acrylic lacquer over anything. You can’t without risk of lifting, spray urethane over lacquer or enamel. So the old should be sanded off first if urethane is your desire. As long as you get down to the old, well cured original paint and primer you may be OK. You can try an area and see if it reacts or not.

 

[snakeoil24]

You should media blast l

Panels 2 coats epoxy front and back then 2 part top coat

 

[Mackman]

I just did this refinish on my 67 Coronet convertible. For the doors I sanded the original finish and sealed it with a PPG epoxy primer. Then I top coated with black PPG type DCC urethane with hardener. Used the same formula on the rear housings. The lower parts of the rear I used a satin black.

 

[Mackman]

I just did this refinish on my 67 Coronet convertible. For the doors I sanded the original finish and sealed it with a PPG epoxy primer. Then I top coated with black PPG type DCC urethane with hardener. Used the same formula on the rear housings. The lower parts of the rear I used a satin black.

DCC is their Concept paint which is quite expensive, but I had some leftover from a previous project.

 

[AR67GTX]

I tried to buy some Concept from our PPG dealer last week and they told name it was no longer available other than a few leftover tints. He thought he might have some black but when I asked about it, he said it was gone too. Sold me Omni instead. I assume he knows what he’s talking about but I hate it as DDC was really good stuff.

 

[forphorty]

Should be gloss. As mentioned above the interior paint on doors and rear seat panels was simply the acrylic lacquer or enamel used on the exterior. I say this hoping Dodge didn’t do something different. They did vary from Plymouth in sometimes unexpected ways. One exception is the metal dash on 66 - 70 cars that received a suede finish. Steering column on 66 cars was gloss and on 67 cars was suede. Not sure on later years but I think suede.

Sounds like they have been painted before. That’s a reason I suggested lacquer. It’s not as tough or durable as urethane but on interior surfaces it doesn’t typically get as much abuse or weathering. You can spray acrylic lacquer over anything. You can’t without risk of lifting, spray urethane over lacquer or enamel. So the old should be sanded off first if urethane is your desire. As long as you get down to the old, well cured original paint and primer you may be OK. You can try an area and see if it reacts or not.

I disagree . You CAN'T spray lacquer over everything. Lacquer applied over enamel is more likely to lift than vice versa.

 

[Mackman]

I tried to buy some Concept from our PPG dealer last week and they told name it was no longer available other than a few leftover tints. He thought he might have some black but when I asked about it, he said it was gone too. Sold me Omni instead. I assume he knows what he’s talking about but I hate it as DDC was really good stuff.

I have had good luck with Omni.

 

[Rich H.]

Did the inside of mine with SPI products (epoxy/black basecoat/universal clear).
Last two attachments to illustrate....

Strongly recommend real, modern automotive grade products, all 2k with catalyst/hardener, from primer to clear.

If you have no choice but to use rattle cans, try the spraymax products that have a hardener built in, that you puncture at the bottom of the can.

Same process as everywhere else, epoxy, block, mud (barely any needed), epoxy, surfacer, block again and maybe block a few more times.

(Then multiply X2 to account for the other door)

View attachment 1488246

View attachment 1488247

View attachment 1488248

View attachment 1488249

View attachment 1488250

View attachment 1488251

View attachment 1488252

View attachment 1488253