panel flanger

[Basket case]

I've been reading some of the threads about replacing panels. you guys do fantastic work! I've got a pair of skins for my road runner that have been collecting dust since '07. One question I have is on the panel flangers. One thread, the owner attatched his skins after flanging the top of the original 1/4s. This is how I want to do mine. This is (hopefully!) the last project for me. I've done some quick looking at Eastwoods site at their flangers. Would the flangers that look like vise-grips do a good job? I can't see spending $100+ on the air ones if I'll never be using them again.
Thanks!
Dave

 

[shorty64]

Flanging

I used the Vise Grip style for some floor pan work I did many moons ago but no experience on body panels. It would certainly be very tedious to hand flange a long section and maybe some concern about waviness, but if time is not an issue, then what the hey!

Good luck on your project regardless - it all counts as gaining experience!

Randy C.

 

[YY1]

I'd butt weld.

Flagers introdue all sorts of problems and potential extra work as a trade off for an easier initial attachment.

 

[dfarmercse]

I did mine and got a air flanger. It was worth the money. Very hard to do a entire 1/4 by hand. See if you can find somebody that has one. The one at Harbor frieght is like 40.00.

Dave F

 

[Propwash]

I got an ingersoll flange tool...works great. Most flange guns are a flange/punch combo. Get the one with the 5/16" punch and you'll save yourself tons of time vs. drilling holes for plug welding, if you have the proper reach.

Hand would be tedious, but possible..Buttwelding takes out the possibilty of an air gap on the backside, but requires a bit more skill to do correctly.

Good luck.

 

[MoparBill]

I prefer to use one that goes in your air hammer. I have one that is the flange/punch tool also, but the air hammer one seems to leave a smoother flange. I usually sand the are before I flage it, then spray weld through primer on it to help corrosion protection. I buttweld as much as possible.

 

[b-body-bob]

I bought a HF flanger. It works OK. It only punches 3/16 holes and I find that I really need at least a 5/16 hole to get good penetration and bonding. Doubt I'll use it now that I've found this way of setting up to butt weld though

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/body/mopp_0506_panel_rust_removal/index.html
and
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/body/mopp_0507_panel_rust_removal_2/index.html

 

[SPAULDO]

Butt weld if you can like YY1 said and you won't have a long lap joint that will more than likely rear it's ugly head if not prepped right. Butt welds hide nothing!

 

[Superfreak]

I butt weld all my panel joints as well.

 

[Basket case]

I butt weld all my panel joints as well.

do you travel?:grin:

 

[Superfreak]

do you travel?:grin:

Ha......I still haven't got my passport done so they would catch me at the border, sorry

 

[Lowhound]

I bought some butt welding clamps. Eastwood carries them. They hold 2 pieces of metal together for butt welding & they leave a small gap between for the weld.Its like having an extra couple of hands. Only thing aggravating is to get the 1st couple attatched. I think they come in packs of 4 & 8.

 

[b-body-bob]

Those butt welding clamps are a heckuva lot cheaper at Harbor Freight if you've got one close. http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-butt-welding-clamps-44751.html

You can make your own too http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11673 I've seen descriptions on line to make them that look like the Eastwood/HF clamps, but can't find it now.

The attachment shows what they look like in use. They're made from steel so if you weld too close to them you can get them stuck.