Parts list for cam change

[Charger21]

I have a factory 400 and planning to do a cam swap and then put it in my 73 Charger. I am taking out the factory cam and putting in a mopar purple shaft cam. I have never done this before but will have help from someone. What parts do I need to have ready?

I know I need:
Cam
New hydraulic lifters
Break in cam lube

Do I need new push rods or valve springs? Anything else?

Thanks!

 

[dieseldazzle]

Stock to mild 400 with no exhaust valve rotators I like to use the 455 mopar cam.

 

[Charger21]

Thanks

Stock to mild 400 with no exhaust valve rotators I like to use the 455 mopar cam.

Thanks! That is the one I am planning. I was thinking that was called the purple shaft.

 

[oldbee]

1 wire coat hanger-straightened out..........lay it along upper sides of rocker shafts to hold all the pushrods close to the rockers when going together(unless you have 4 extra hands). You'll thank me later.

 

[Charger21]

1 wire coat hanger-straightened out..........lay it along upper sides of rocker shafts to hold all the pushrods close to the rockers when going together(unless you have 4 extra hands). You'll thank me later.

Thanks oldbee!

 

[Charger21]

Should add I have a new timing chain as well.

 

[threewood]

Some sort of cam handle to remove and re install. I welded an old cam bolt to a piece of rebar.

 

[PRND21]

New springs, timing chain and sprockets, front seal, fuel pump pushrod... Be sure to examine the gear on the distributor drive shaft.

 

[mopar 3 B]

1 wire coat hanger-straightened out..........lay it along upper sides of rocker shafts to hold all the pushrods close to the rockers when going together(unless you have 4 extra hands). You'll thank me later.

Get fancy and buy some stainless gas rod. Straight and will never rust. Also a long bolt to use as a guide handle at the front of the cam.

 

[4mulas]

One dozen pbr's

 

[Lionized]

One dozen pbr's

I prefer Michelob but PBR will do in a pinch!

That timing cover front seal is cheap at $20. Don't assume it's gonna be good. You've got the cover off, swap it.
New springs/retainers and locks wouldn't hurt either.

 

[miller]

Be sure to check lifter pre-load. Could easily be looking at new push rods.

 

[451Mopar]

I have a factory 400 and planning to do a cam swap and then put it in my 73 Charger. I am taking out the factory cam and putting in a mopar purple shaft cam. I have never done this before but will have help from someone. What parts do I need to have ready?

I know I need:
Cam
New hydraulic lifters
Break in cam lube

Do I need new push rods or valve springs? Anything else?

Thanks!

For parts you will need:
Valve cover gaskets
Intake manifold / valley tray gasket
front cover / water pump housing gasket kit /w front cover seal.
RTV to seal the corners of the oil pan to cover and intake valley tray.
Blue, med strength loctite for cam bolt, oil pan bolts, pulley bolts.
Liquid teflon sealer/paste for intake manifold bolts, and water pump housing bolts going into water jacket area.
Cam break-in lobe grease
High ZDDP oil additive or Camshaft Break-in oil
Oil Filter

Parts you may need (optional?):
Timing chain set
fuel pump pushrod
Harmonic damper sleeve (to fix damper seal surface if really worn.)
New Harmonic damper if the rubber is shot?
Valve stem seals
valve springs (and maybe retainers if the springs don't match stock retainers?)
pushrods (depends on the year engine the original pushrods are. I think pre 1968 has a longer pushrod because the lifter was different?)

Tools you will need:
Normal sockets and wrench sets
Harmonic damper puller

Tools you might need:
On-head valve spring compressor (to replace valve stem seals and/or valve springs)
Long wire to align pushrods
Long bolt or handle to help remove/install cam (I usually just use the timing gear bolted to the cam?)
Harmonic damper install tool
Valve spring height micrometer and valve spring shims (if you want to ensure the install height.)
Valve spring pressure tester and dial calipers (if you plan to measure valve spring pressures.)
Cam shaft degree kit (dial indicator, degree wheel, piston stop or indicator bridge) if you plan to degree the cam installation?
Rope or compressed air adaptor to hold valves in place if removing/installing valve springs
Torque wrench, if you want to torque everything correctly
A way to remove/install the front cover seal (hammer, drift, wood block(s)?)

I'm sure I am forgetting some stuff. If you were going to a large cam that requires dual springs, then I think you need to cut the valve spring seats, which means removing the heads.

Really once the engine is that far apart, you only need to remove the exhaust manifolds to pull the heads. It may be worth it to pull the heads and have them gone through by a shop if they have alot of miles on them. It also makes changing springs and valve stem seals easier.

 

[Ranger16]

I have a factory 400 and planning to do a cam swap and then put it in my 73 Charger. I am taking out the factory cam and putting in a mopar purple shaft cam. I have never done this before but will have help from someone.

Just a heads up in case you are not aware of this. Before I swapped the cam on my 383 (same as the 440), I checked the FSM and was pleasantly surprised to find that I did not need to pull the heads or intake manifold. All the lifters came out through the push rod holes with a telescoping magnet.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Just a heads up in case you are not aware of this. Before I swapped the cam on my 383 (same as the 440), I checked the FSM and was pleasantly surprised to find that I did not need to pull the heads or intake manifold. All the lifters came out through the push rod holes with a telescoping magnet.

That method would only be for the very experienced!!!!

 

[khryslerkid]

For parts you will need:
Valve cover gaskets
Intake manifold / valley tray gasket
front cover / water pump housing gasket kit /w front cover seal.
RTV to seal the corners of the oil pan to cover and intake valley tray.
Blue, med strength loctite for cam bolt, oil pan bolts, pulley bolts.
Liquid teflon sealer/paste for intake manifold bolts, and water pump housing bolts going into water jacket area.
Cam break-in lobe grease
High ZDDP oil additive or Camshaft Break-in oil
Oil Filter

Parts you may need (optional?):
Timing chain set
fuel pump pushrod
Harmonic damper sleeve (to fix damper seal surface if really worn.)
New Harmonic damper if the rubber is shot?
Valve stem seals
valve springs (and maybe retainers if the springs don't match stock retainers?)
pushrods (depends on the year engine the original pushrods are. I think pre 1968 has a longer pushrod because the lifter was different?)

Tools you will need:
Normal sockets and wrench sets
Harmonic damper puller

Tools you might need:
On-head valve spring compressor (to replace valve stem seals and/or valve springs)
Long wire to align pushrods
Long bolt or handle to help remove/install cam (I usually just use the timing gear bolted to the cam?)
Harmonic damper install tool
Valve spring height micrometer and valve spring shims (if you want to ensure the install height.)
Valve spring pressure tester and dial calipers (if you plan to measure valve spring pressures.)
Cam shaft degree kit (dial indicator, degree wheel, piston stop or indicator bridge) if you plan to degree the cam installation?
Rope or compressed air adaptor to hold valves in place if removing/installing valve springs
Torque wrench, if you want to torque everything correctly
A way to remove/install the front cover seal (hammer, drift, wood block(s)?)

I'm sure I am forgetting some stuff. If you were going to a large cam that requires dual springs, then I think you need to cut the valve spring seats, which means removing the heads.

Really once the engine is that far apart, you only need to remove the exhaust manifolds to pull the heads. It may be worth it to pull the heads and have them gone through by a shop if they have alot of miles on them. It also makes changing springs and valve stem seals easier.

Nice list 451! They should make that a "sticky"

 

[5.7 hemi]

Either I missed it or it wasn't mentioned, but, you'll need a gasket for the timing cover lip.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Nice list 451! They should make that a "sticky"

Gaskets should be SUPERPERFORMANCE PRODUCTS!!

 

[oldbee]

Yes a long extension at frt end of cam definitely makes it easier, you don't want to be banging lifter lobes into the cam bearings.

 

[Ranger16]

Just a heads up in case you are not aware of this. Before I swapped the cam on my 383 (same as the 440), I checked the FSM and was pleasantly surprised to find that I did not need to pull the heads or intake manifold. All the lifters came out through the push rod holes with a telescoping magnet.

That method would only be for the very experienced!!!!

If I could do it, it's not really all that difficult. Actually, I think it was easier than pulling the heads & intake manifold.