Pinion snubber or no Pinion snubber??

[Cranky]

I really appreciate all the input for this post I believe I am probably not going to do anything to its just working so good hate to mess that up lol

If the rear is wrapping so much that it's getting into the shocks, it's not working like it should be. You might just improve your 60's if you better control the wrap. If the mod you made doesn't work, you can always go back to the way it was. That's why you should never make more than one change at a time. I used to go round and round with a buddy of mine that liked to make 2 and 3 changes at a time and he chased his tail. I can see doing that in some cases but not when something is working good but isn't working quite like it should be. Test one thing at a time. On the other hand, you may not improve your 60 foot at all but if you quit nailing the shocks, you did improve something. This same buddy I mentioned ruined a good pair of drag shocks of mine because of too much rear end wrap. Also, if it's wrapping that much, what's it doing to the springs let alone the shocks? Keep in mind that leaf springs only have so many duty cycles in them and become fatigued and the more they are worked, the quicker they fatigue. I've seen them give up fairly slowly while others gave up pretty fast......

 

[1967gtx]

You have moved the axle rearward 2" which I have done on my 66 Belvedere I post car, the issue is you have to rotate the lower shock mounting (just the stud) about the center of the axle to keep the same relationship as in the stock location leaving the upper mount untouched. That should take care of the beating the shocks on the axle housing. 9.90 @ 132 - is this car a bottle baby?

 

[Cranky]

You have moved the axle rearward 2" which I have done on my 66 Belvedere I post car, the issue is you have to rotate the lower shock mounting (just the stud) about the center of the axle to keep the same relationship as in the stock location leaving the upper mount untouched. That should take care of the beating the shocks on the axle housing. 9.90 @ 132 - is this car a bottle baby?

On my buddies car, the axle was in the stock location and the ride height was close to stock too but it was still beating up the shocks. It was a 10.0 car on motor and 9.3x on a small shot. If the wrap up is severe, it'll get the shocks but yeah, moving the rear back will amplify the problem.

 

[Badbelvedere]

I appreciate the input again guys, let me just say that I moved my rear end back but I did not move the top shock mounting bracket back so the shocks have a little bit of an angle not much so that would probably cause the shocks to hit as well. My angle on my pinion is more than 10 I can tell you that lol I believe it is in the neighborhood of about 13 if I remember correctly.

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Thanks I might try that first seems like an easy fix btw It is not a bottle baby its all that mopar horse power

 

[Mike Gaines]

Thanks I really appreciate the compliments, I believe my weight distribution is helping me out alot though it has 49.6% on the rear tires and everyone should know distribution is key to hooking. That and a good concrete pad lol, I love using the ss springs just to prove that they work still I know it is antique technology but those guys in the 60s were using them with crappy tires and track prep and they were doing good. Tech with tires and the way they prep the track has gone along way but any suspension is good just got to find what your car likes on the different types out there. I have also been thinking about my 440 victor intake it has a 4150 flange but I have the spacer for a 4500 flange wonder if itll pick up with just a straight 4500 worth a shot maybe lol so many things I would like to try but she is working so good right now scared to touch it haha

In regards to your comment: "I have also been thinking about my 440 victor intake it has a 4150 flange but I have the spacer for a 4500 flange wonder if itll pick up with just a straight 4500 worth a shot maybe lol so many things I would like to try but she is working so good right now scared to touch it"
If you read the catalog, etc from INDY CYLINDER HEAD they say that "more power" can be made using the 4150 flanged single plane hi-rise intake with their adapter to mount at 4500 on top of the adaper....the same thing can be found in Andy Finkbeinder (spelling ?) book of "Building Max Performance Big Block Mopars.
So...I think you doing exactly what they say...
This is exactly what you are doing

 

[Badbelvedere]

Hmm thanks for that Mike I mean it makes sense to have the air funnel in like it is doing plus I have always heard that the higher the carb is off the motor the more torque you will make which is made from hp lol

 

[dvw]

I appreciate the input again guys, let me just say that I moved my rear end back but I did not move the top shock mounting bracket back so the shocks have a little bit of an angle not much so that would probably cause the shocks to hit as well. My angle on my pinion is more than 10 I can tell you that lol I believe it is in the neighborhood of about 13 if I remember correctly.

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Thanks I might try that first seems like an easy fix btw It is not a bottle baby its all that mopar horse power

If it had 13 degrees of pinion angle the yoke ears will hit the driveshaft. Don't ask me how I know. Still despite what appears as a set-up that shouldn't work, it appears to 60 ft very well. How much does it weigh? The carb/conveter/ cam appear to be matched VERY well.
Doug

 

[Badbelvedere]

LOL I will would hope that you found out before you drove it. but I have a 1250 dominator 5200- 5800 stall and it flashes at 4800 .636" solid roller lunati cam and it has eddie rpm heads flowing 301

 

[66Satellite47]

You really do have an impressive combination to get that 60'. You may want to try adding the extra right side half leaf going all the way under the front spring eye (suggested earlier), that's how it worked out in my '65 Coronet when I "cloned" original 3000# SS springs. I also did get better spring reaction control from the 3 way adjustable shocks set to stiffen the extension. Probably both of these especially if you do go to the brake.

 

[66Satellite47]

I've going back through the threads you've had so far regarding the springs, transbrake & snubber. The times you're getting are impressive. But back to the snubber, it wouldn't hurt to try one. I finally recalled why I got away from using it. I was getting "bounce" from the reaction of the snubber contact as the axle & spring rotated. Again stiffening the right side front half & clamping the left side rear more should help the steer to the right & even out the "twist". Keep us updated.

 

[Badbelvedere]

I appreciate the input I haven't done anything yet it has been so hot here its ridiculous to weld and grind lol but I will def keep you all updated

 

[Badvert65]

Here are pics of my snubber. It cost about $10 for two snubbers and I had the 1 1/2 square tubing already.


This setup gives me about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of clearance. I may switch to a 2 inch square if I need the snubber closer. I won't know until I get some passes on the car.
Point is, you don't need to spend much on this setup.

 

[Cranky]

I appreciate the input I haven't done anything yet it has been so hot here its ridiculous to weld and grind lol but I will def keep you all updated

You should be in the Houston area right now with low 90's temps. Right now it's 83 with 78% and it feels like it's 90 lol.

 

[robinsonwr]

Here are pics of my snubber. It cost about $10 for two snubbers and I had the 1 1/2 square tubing already.
View attachment 263225View attachment 263226

This setup gives me about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of clearance. I may switch to a 2 inch square if I need the snubber closer. I won't know until I get some passes on the car.
Point is, you don't need to spend much on this setup.

Badvert65,
Are you running SS springs on your car? On my 66" Satellite I used the Mancini adjustable and modified to fit my application. I am running XHD springs, Rancho 9 way adjustable shocks, 2 degree pinion shims, and aftermarket front spring hanger. My car is a dedicated street car with occasional strip use.

 

[Mike Gaines]

Here is traction guaranteed (lol)

Want Traction ?Just narrow your rear end, install an inboard spring setup, put on Cal Trac Bars / Cal Trac 9 Way Adj Rear Shocks / Cal Trac 90/10 front shocks / Cal Trac Mono Leaf Springs / 15x10 Weld Wheels, 28x13.50x15 MT Slicks and heat it all up in the water box....
Traction made simple

 

[Badvert65]

Badvert65,
Are you running SS springs on your car? On my 66" Satellite I used the Mancini adjustable and modified to fit my application. I am running XHD springs, Rancho 9 way adjustable shocks, 2 degree pinion shims, and aftermarket front spring hanger. My car is a dedicated street car with occasional strip use.

My Belvedere is using E body XHD springs (Dodge Challenger) and one Add-A-Leaf helper spring. I was trying to avoid the Super Stock springs because this is a street/bracket car (although it will probably see more race than street).
I am using a similar setup (XHD springs) on my 65 Fury (former bracket car) except that I didn't use the Add-A-Leaf on it (but I may add it later). I had a 2 inch aluminum spacer made for my Fury's snubber to bring it one inch from the floor. I didn't have contact with the same machine shop guy so I had to make the Belvedere snubber spacer myself. It aint as pretty, but it works.

 

[robinsonwr]

Want Traction ?Just narrow your rear end, install an inboard spring setup, put on Cal Trac Bars / Cal Trac 9 Way Adj Rear Shocks / Cal Trac 90/10 front shocks / Cal Trac Mono Leaf Springs / 15x10 Weld Wheels, 28x13.50x15 MT Slicks and heat it all up in the water box....
Traction made simpleView attachment 263307View attachment 263308View attachment 263309

Mike,
What settings are you using on the Calvert 9 way adjustable rear shocks?

 

[Mike Gaines]

Robinsonwr:
I have them set at #7 out of 9 settings. That is the recommendation from TECH DEPARTMENT at Cal Trac.
They really want you to have 5" of front wheel "up" travel at launch (I only have 4" but they said that was ok) so the front end comes up and "plants" the rear end "down".
They then want the setting at #7 to "hold" the rear end down as they do NOT want it to come back "up" and do what they call "pourpising (spelling ?)...(it is a big fish that jumps in and out of the water..lol). They want the rear end to stay down.