Pirate Jack's Power Disc Brake Booster Kit

[themechanic]

Pirate Jack's Power Disc Brake Booster Kit Installed

Last year (2013) I converted my OEM power drum brakes to manual 4-wheel disc with the Doctor Diff kit but didn't like the stopping power. So, I bought the power disc brake kit from Pirate Jacks which includes the Bendix style booster, master cylinder, and linkage. I bought the gaskets from our friends at Detroit Muscle Technologies (DMT) on their eBay site. Inline Tubing sells the steel and stainless steel brake lines to plumb the master cylinder to the proportioning valve.

The one thing you need that is not in the kit is the bolt that attaches the linkage to the brake pedal. Brewer's Performance sells the pedal bolt for $12.



I need to bleed the lines and take it for a test drive, weather permitting. Results ASAP.

http://www.piratejack.net/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=yagendoo_flypage_1.tpl&product_id=400&category_id=49&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=6

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DMT-MOPAR-B...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item43a99c8a1f

http://stores.ebay.com/Detroit-Musc...d=164282685&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=2

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BPR-BOLT

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

My shop is complaining about how close the inlet lines are on the master especially the front one. Looks like yours is close as well almost too tight of a 90° I still have the drums in the back so using a prop valve. Looks great sitting in there nice and oem looking.

 

[themechanic]

My shop is complaining about how close the inlet lines are on the master especially the front one. Looks like yours is close as well almost too tight of a 90° I still have the drums in the back so using a prop valve. Looks great sitting in there nice and oem looking.

Thanks. The booster is a lot smaller than I imagined.

You can bend the lines to fit. The reason mine are so close is the booster and MS angles towards the fender. The lines are not touching the paint and the bends are curved not 90 degree angles. I think you can buy a MS with engine side outlets. You may want to do that since you are making your own lines.

 

[b-star69]

lookin good!

 

[super-bee_ski]

I've been looking at that company.
Cheaper than the "Ram Mav" in Texas!

 

[318 Six Pack]

That looks great! Is it the same setup that "The Ram Man" on YouTube is selling/talking about here?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCQ8iI_7Eo0

- - - Updated - - -

Second question, is all that paint heat/chem resistant, or does it need a little spritz of high-temp epoxy?

 

[themechanic]

Looks the same. Paint on booster and plate looks like powder coat. Should take the heat.

I love those Ramman videos! That guy knows his Mopar brakes and is a real hoot to watch.

 

[Runner 68]

Hey Mechanic, elaborate a little more on what you didn't like about the manual feel / stopping power. How did the car feel?

 

[Propwash]

I love those Ramman videos! That guy knows his Mopar brakes and is a real hoot to watch.

He's a decent Fella. Spent a half hour on the phone with the guy when trying to piece together my Bendix brake system. Turned out I already had all the parts I required and wasn't needing to buy anything off him, but he still took the time to explain everything in great detail.

 

[themechanic]

Hey Mechanic, elaborate a little more on what you didn't like about the manual feel / stopping power. How did the car feel?

I only tried the 1.032 master cylinder on the manual setup but it took a lot of leg muscle to stop. I couldn't tell any difference between the new 4 wheel manual disc and the old 4 wheel power drum setup.

I just tried the same braking system (after bleeding the brakes) and have about 5 times the stopping power. The only difference was adding the booster. I may go with 1.125 master cylinder for the added pedal height after driving a while on the 1.032 MS.

 

[318 Six Pack]

Yet another question mechanic, did it come with the cool plated cover or is that a different one than the black one in the parts pix?

 

[themechanic]

Yet another question mechanic, did it come with the cool plated cover or is that a different one than the black one in the parts pix?

Both master cylinders (one from DoctorDiff the other from Pirate Jack) came with cast iron (gray) master cylinder and yellow plated cover. I painted the master cylinder on my car because I don't like the rust layer that always forms on the sides.

 

[318 Six Pack]

Both master cylinders (one from DoctorDiff the other from Pirate Jack) came with cast iron (gray) master cylinder and yellow plated cover. I painted the master cylinder on my car because I don't like the rust layer that always forms on the sides.

Cool! When I get to doing mine I plan on using the Eastwood paint for it and keep it gray, maybe find a clear that works on the lid.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Thank-you very much for posting this as I had no idea where to find that pedal linkage bolt for my car! You just saved me a ton of time.

Last year (2013) I converted my OEM power drum brakes to manual 4-wheel disc with the Doctor Diff kit but didn't like the stopping power. So, I bought the power disc brake kit from Pirate Jacks which includes the Bendix style booster, master cylinder, and linkage. I bought the gaskets from our friends at Detroit Muscle Technologies (DMT) on their eBay site. Inline Tubing sells the steel and stainless steel brake lines to plumb the master cylinder to the proportioning valve.

The one thing you need that is not in the kit is the bolt that attaches the linkage to the brake pedal. Brewer's Performance sells the pedal bolt for $12.

View attachment 176847

I need to bleed the lines and take it for a test drive, weather permitting. Results ASAP.

http://www.piratejack.net/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=yagendoo_flypage_1.tpl&product_id=400&category_id=49&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=6

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DMT-MOPAR-B...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item43a99c8a1f

http://stores.ebay.com/Detroit-Musc...d=164282685&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=2

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BPR-BOLT

 

[themechanic]

You're welcome

Posted via Topify on Android

 

[Dragon Slayer]

You can get the equivalent MC with the ports point towards the motor. Only the Hemi cars had the MC with the port facing fender. That will give you better clearance and Right Stuff has the lines for either version. You specific which one you need. G

 

[am3rican]

Hey, can I ask you how long it took to do the conversion? I'm taking to my buddy s shop who has a lift

 

[YY1]

Ive been noticing a few things about M/C and mounting lately that I haven't noticed before.

Since you've been back and forth between power and manual perhaps you can clarify.

1- Power brake cars seem to have studs coming through the firewall.
I've tried to pound them out so I could use them on another car, but there was no way.

2- M/C for power brake car has no knurled holes, and won't hold the studs for a manual brake M/C.
Is this related to piston bore size? Did you have a power M/C on your manual setup?

3- I'm somewhat convinced that Mopar did a good percentage (if not all) of the F/R proportioning with wheel cylinder (and caliper piston) bore size. This suggests that changing only the front setup could cause all sorts of ill effects.

Any one have thoughts or observations on this?

 

[themechanic]

Hey, can I ask you how long it took to do the conversion? I'm taking to my buddy s shop who has a lift

Working alone, as usual, I think I did the front including the MC and spindles on one day and the rear the next. Someone may be able to do it faster but I took my time and took photos along the way.

- - - Updated - - -

Ive been noticing a few things about M/C and mounting lately that I haven't noticed before.

Since you've been back and forth between power and manual perhaps you can clarify.

1- Power brake cars seem to have studs coming through the firewall.
I've tried to pound them out so I could use them on another car, but there was no way.

2- M/C for power brake car has no knurled holes, and won't hold the studs for a manual brake M/C.
Is this related to piston bore size? Did you have a power M/C on your manual setup?

3- I'm somewhat convinced that Mopar did a good percentage (if not all) of the F/R proportioning with wheel cylinder (and caliper piston) bore size. This suggests that changing only the front setup could cause all sorts of ill effects.

Any one have thoughts or observations on this?

My car had power drums from the factory. I had to use bolts and nuts to convert to power disc. I used the existing distribution block and no additional prop valve. I have not locked up the brakes to see if all four wheels lock simultaneously.

 

[am3rican]

Does it matter that mine came from the factory without power brakes?