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Please help!

I just went threw all the post,I'd bet your cam is worn,what oil are you using?
The new oils don't have all the stuff our motors need and I have seen lots of cams cause the same problems your having.Do a cylinder compression test to see where you stand!
 
Sorry I forgot to add,you should also have a leak down test done.Read up on how it's done at the links below.

Leak down: http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/engine/ques057_1.html
Compression test: http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/engine/ques056_1.html

Or a really fast and easy way to check your cam is to remove the rocker covers unplug the coil and crank the motor over...Watch all the rockers move up and down if some don't move as much as the others you need a cam.See what a flat cam looks like in the video below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJjcbqbinA4&feature=player_embedded
 
How hot is it outside when you drive it?

If there is no debris in the fuel filter then it may not be the tank.
Vapor lock is much more of an enemy on today's fuel.
Regardless of engine size the standard fuel pump from NAPA is a low volume piece and inadequate.
You must have a high volume mechanical, even on a 318, preferable with a return line to the tank,
If you go electric go for an 80 gpm or higher full vane pump not the little thumper jobs.

Had the same problem in my 68 Charger. problem came out of no where, new tank, vented cap, still acted up,
the car now is good to dead standstill rush hour traffic at 100 deg. without issues on the modern worlds excuse for fuel. Oh yeah with A/C.
I can give you the full blueprint for my set up if you like.
 
lvmymopar said:
Okay this is getting very flustrating. They fixed the short. The vacuum advance was not working also. Car is starting to run better but still not quite right. Still hesitates when you step on the gas. Is still missing. And it was pinging, knocking. Timed it a little more and it stoped pinging. But still hesitates and is missing. What else could we try? Going to check plug wires and plugs to make sure we are getting spark. The dist. does not have points. I thought it did. Could something else be wrong in the dist?
Click to expand...

worn distributor bushing?
happened to me once, of course I'm the guy who always winds up problems no one else does
 
Still cant figure it out. Changed cap, rotor, vacuum advance is working. Car is missing really bad. Seems to get worse the more we drive it. A friend thinks for sure it is in the dist. It has an electronic conversion kit on it. I think Mopar performance. How do we troubleshoot anything else in the dist.? Like how do you know if the bushings are bad. Would that cause it to misfire? And what about the pickup coil? Should we just replace the whole dist. with a new one? I just want my car back to normal!
 
At this point I'd pull all the plugs and have a look. See if any of them look "off". If so, then I'd work on diagnosing that cylinder.

I'd probably also pop the valve covers and look for problems there
 
69 Runner said:
At this point I'd pull all the plugs and have a look. See if any of them look "off". If so, then I'd work on diagnosing that cylinder.

I'd probably also pop the valve covers and look for problems there
Click to expand...

69 Runner is rite, don't waist time and money throwing parts at the problem
pull the plugs and read them if you don't understand how to read them pull them all, keep them in the same order you take them out and post pic's of them,so we can try to help.I'm sure you have either a worn cam or bad valvetrain component.
 
We noticed that the dist. shaft has a lot of movement. Is that normal?
 
lvmymopar said:
The vacuum is real good. All plugs look good.
Click to expand...

Did you look at the link i posted?. a vacuum gauge is a handy diagnostic tool. Having vacumn and observing vacuum with a gauge are two different things.how the needle moves can tell many things about your internals.
 
daredevil said:
Did you look at the link i posted?. a vacuum gauge is a handy diagnostic tool. Having vacumn and observing vacuum with a gauge are two different things.how the needle moves can tell many things about your internals.
Click to expand...

Very true,worth while to do this.
 
We have several problems going on. The cam was worn on two lobes. Fixed that. The car has a electronic distributor conversion kit on it and it was the wrong one for the car. Wrong plugs and a broken plug wire. Now on to fuel. Wasnt getting any fuel pressure. Blockage or sludge in the tank or lines. Mechanic is going to take out tank now and clean everything out. He cleared the lines with air and all kinds of gunk came out of the line. He said there was water in the tank also. How does water get into the tank unless someone puts it in there? And there is alot of pressure in the tank. When you open the gas cap it has a lot of pressure. Is that from the vent tube being blocked somehow? It has a vented cap on it. I hope that this the last of it. Car runs great now except for the fuel issue.
 
Last edited:
lvmymopar said:
We have several problems going on. The cam was worn on two lobes. Fixed that. The car has a electronic distributor conversion kit on it and it was the wrong one for the car. Wrong plugs and a broken plug wire. Now on to fuel. Wasnt getting any fuel pressure. Blockage or sludge in the tank or lines. Mechanic is going to take out tank now and clean everything out. He cleared the lines with air and all kinds of gunk came out of the line. He said there was water in the tank also. How does water get into the tank unless someone puts it in there? And there is alot of pressure in the tank. When you open the gas cap it has a lot of pressure. Is that from the vent tube being blocked somehow? It has a vented cap on it. I hope that this the last of it. Car runs great now except for the fuel issue.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you were lucky it ran at all. To answer your question about water in the tank, if the tank is left with little fuel in it, condensation will form on the walls of the tank. The lower the fuel level, the more condensation due to more exposed surface area in the tank. So, if you leave more fuel in the tank, it will reduce this problem. It's also not much of a problem if the car gets driven regularly. Just remember to put fuel stabilizer in the fuel if you are going to be leaving the car parked with the same gas in the tank for more than 3 months, as the gas may start to break down.
 
What causes the pressure to build in the gas tank? When you open the gas cap it has alot of pressure. And how do you remedy that?
 
No, there should be no pressure...The vented cap only vents internal tank pressure above a certain pressure, so it's not open to the atmosphere; it also opens at a certain vacuum level (below atmospheric pressure) to allow air to replace the volume of fuel used.

The original caps didn't have that valve - it was just open to the atmosphere through a small hole in the cap.

On cars after 1970 or so the tanks are vented to the charcoal canister in the engine bay. The canister is supposed to hold the gasses and then use them on engine start up.

That's the theory; the reality is that the fresh air backdraft also draws in dust and the charcoal pad eventually gets blocked.On a hot day the gases in the tank expand and cause the rush of air when opening the cap.
The new caps must have the valve to prevent gasses from leaving the tank and going into the atmosphere.....Long story short you need the old style cap because the EPA wont allow the new caps to vent gasses.
 
Re; fuel issue. Smarter people than I have been discussing things like this, but on another site, several folks found that they had an issue with a worn fuel pump pushrod. This would work fine at low revs, but with a shortened stroke, it just wouldn't deliver enough fuel at higher revs. Folks checked their pressure at idle, but couldn't hold it at high revs, under load to actually see that the float bowl was draining!
 
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