Powering Accessories With Battery In Trunk???

[74Beeper]

So, i'm about to relocate my battery to the trunk of my 74 Roadrunner. I'm wondering how all you guys out there who have trunk mounted batteries are powering your high draw engine bay accessories? (Digital ignition, Electric Fans ect...) Are you running power wires all the way back to the battery for each accessory or one wire with a power junction block? MSD says you need to power the ignition box directly to the battery and keep the power wire as short as possible. Kind of impossible with the battery in the trunk.

Any insight on this is greatly appreciated and pictures would be awesome.

Thanks,
JJ

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I have not done this myself, but I believe you just run some 0-gage or 1-gage welding cable up to the front of the car & connect up to a "power junction block" as you call it in the engine bay. You obviously don't have to run "everything" off that junction block, so you could run your electric fuel pump from the trunk. I've seen "big stereo" guys run their amps direct from the trunk-mounted battery. I would think the ground wire & all your ground connections throughout the car would be CRITICAL to make sure you have good electrical connections since your frame will become your negative battery post (so to speak).

 

[ram250098]

I have run a block mounted in the engine bay to run my accessories.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

With ammeter in line, accesories must be sourced AFTER the ammeter, on alt side side of the charging line. It can be from Amm stud itself.

Feed accesories from batt is A TOTAL MISTAKE which is one of the causes to overload the ammeter and lines. Specially with underrated stock alts.

 

[74Beeper]

Thanks for the replies...... I have a volt gauge so i was planning on eliminating the amp gauge especially having a 140 amp alt.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Although everybody will say opposite, the ammeter will hold perfectly the "140 amps" altenator.

Need to understand what with everything CORRECTLY hooked, the ammeter will sense what car sucks with engine off or what battery sucks to be recharged but never the max output the alt gives. You can get 1000 amps alt, but if your car sucks 35-40 amps with everything working, your alt will provide just 35-40 amps... And if everything is correctly sourced from alt side of the amm ( just like factory did ) the ammeter will NEVER receive that load across it. JUST if engine is off and you still get the accesories on ( discharge reading ), or if batt needs recharge when engine is running ( charge reading )

Need to understand how the charging system really works

When we get/got discharge reading while engine is running is due the lack of power coming from stock alt iddling, hence the battery supply the lack of load alt wasn't able to full fill. Then the charge reading when giving gas because battery was demaning what lost previouslly.

Back and forth reading, with long time periods of charge is what burnt everything, begining with the weak packard 56 terminals but ammeter "failure" is a long therm damage without take care of this. Low output power alts when iddiling