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ProCharger or Turbo what say you

Only going to need to run one. The other one will be a spare back up turbo.
 
I am running a 496 Hemi with F1 Procharger and Fast fuel injection. It puts 840 HP and 835 Torque to the tire.
I haven't done a lot of drag racing with the car mostly autocross.Not sure what it would run in quarter mile I wasn't able to get the power to the ground when I went. My best time was at Bandimere. I ran 12.5@126 MPH.Pretty much spinning down the track.
 
Ya, life is in the way. He's getting his Masters degree right now. The prototype is in a car and will be tested this Summer
Doug

I'm currently copy-cat-ing your sons' 360 build to the best of my ability using the posts from here and the turbo forums.

Engine is going into a 71 Ply Satellite.
Thankful he put the info out there.
What is he getting his masters in??
 
I'm currently copy-cat-ing your sons' 360 build to the best of my ability using the posts from here and the turbo forums.

Engine is going into a 71 Ply Satellite.
Thankful he put the info out there.
What is he getting his masters in??

Do you also have a procharged car? Curious from your username
 
Do you also have a procharged car? Curious from your username

I still have the P600B and bracketry.
I bought the kit back in late 90's so it had the older solid mount tensioner.
I talked to the guys I bought it from, SDCE in Warwick RI, and they want $1000 to upgrade to the newer style spring setup.

I now have a 78/75 billet t4 that I plan to build a hot side for. I really wanted to run both just to have something different.
Looking on line I found a spring tensioner off a truck that the guys over at camaroz28 . com used to build their own. It's only $75 on ebay.

So we will see.
Here is my build thread. slow progress but I have all the turbo parts, ported heads, studs etc.
Need crank balanced and girdle and I can start to assemble and mock up.
https://www.theturboforums.com/threads/mopar-360-compound-turbo-vlog.383867/
 
I'm currently copy-cat-ing your sons' 360 build to the best of my ability using the posts from here and the turbo forums.

Engine is going into a 71 Ply Satellite.
Thankful he put the info out there.
What is he getting his masters in??
Engineering/business. Going at it from both avenues. He will easily give you info. He comes here but probably easier to pm him as Dizuster on the competing Mopar web site.
Doug
 
Engineering/business. Going at it from both avenues. He will easily give you info. He comes here but probably easier to pm him as Dizuster on the competing Mopar web site.
Doug

Thanks,
Yeah, he gave me some info on block durability mods and cylinder head requirements over at Mo Parts.

I will definitely hit him up again when I start building my 727 to hold up to the new found power.
 
Trans stuff is easy. Quality clutches and band. Good valve body. I suggest a good drum, personally I like the aluminum ones. And a steel front planet if you run a brake.
Doug
 
Trans stuff is easy. Quality clutches and band. Good valve body. I suggest a good drum, personally I like the aluminum ones. And a steel front planet if you run a brake.
Doug

Ok,
I will not be running a brake.
I think he noted that he put in a bolt-in=sprag too.
Also, I'm getting older so I will get a shield.
Safety first. LOL
Are the Aluminum drums durable enough for a weekend driver that could also be taken on the power tour or some Roadkill events?
 
To be honest I haven't had any wear issues with the aluminum drum. Of corse it's track only. The 62 has my old billet steel drum. Being heavy it's a little harder on the KD band and front clutch. The brake really works well if you're going to race it to build boost. The only sprag that is really an upgrade is the $200 unit sold by A&A, Cope, TCI, etc. The others are worthless. Even then you can still damage the good one if it fails a driveline part. If your carefull like me, I've never failed a stock sprag, even with my 900hp motor.
Doug
 
To be honest I haven't had any wear issues with the aluminum drum. Of corse it's track only. The 62 has my old billet steel drum. Being heavy it's a little harder on the KD band and front clutch. The brake really works well if you're going to race it to build boost. The only sprag that is really an upgrade is the $200 unit sold by A&A, Cope, TCI, etc. The others are worthless. Even then you can still damage the good one if it fails a driveline part. If your carefull like me, I've never failed a stock sprag, even with my 900hp motor.
Doug

WOW,
I've always heard all the horror stories of blown bells going from 1st to 2nd or as you say when breaking driveline parts.
I will get a good driveshaft before putting too much power to it.
I also want a good sprag for insurance.
Kinda stuck with a 8 3/4 rear so I plan to back brace it and get some good axles.
May be up to a year out before I start building the trans.
Gotta get this engine wrapped up first.

Machine shops around here are backed up big time.
At least the good ones.
Thanks for the info.
 
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