Progression Ignitions

[65Fury440]

I think you could probably pull 2 plug wires on the new engine and still do over 600.
540ish, 270 heads and a solid roller cam, I'd think north of 700 by a bit.
I seriously wonder if anyone has hurt their Passon trans drag racing it.

 

[biomedtechguy]

540ish, 270 heads and a solid roller cam

Well...that's another thing. I have big concerns about using solid rollers, because of lots of stop and go and slow in traffic driving, guaranteed to be an annual event as part of Cruisin the Coast. I figure with my power goal being 700 ft lbs torque over as wide an RPM range as possible, but with Max Wedge port size 270s, the horsepower will probably fall in the 6XX range.
Solid flat tappet cam and lifters, especially with the MOPAR design
large diameter lifters, should be my best bet all around.
I'm always going to feed it with 3x2 of "something" starting out with my Promax modded Holleys, and the only other consideration is the F&B direct port injection setup, that uses 3x2 "air valves" (what is the correct term for them? Butterfly valves?) Like this:

I'm starting out with the Indy ModMan intake, CNCd to MW port size, with the 3 Holleys on top. Unfortunately my beautiful Weiand P3690982 6bbl intake won't allow me to use the N96 hood or setup, and I like that too much to not have it. That Air Grabber is so cool looking, and fairly functional too. I would consider an aftermarket (slightly taller than factory) A12 scoop if I ever am compelled to do that because it may allow for some significantly better intake and carbs array, or the F&B.
I may ask Wilson to look at the Weiand and see if they can open it up to MW port size, but that would definitely require a hood change, but the A12 style scoop may be tall enough.
One thing at a time.

 

[biomedtechguy]

As far as the Passon 5 speed goes, 700 ft lbs continuous torque is supposed to be "minimum" capability. In other words, like in Jamie's words, definitely not a problem.
Should I ever shred it, I'll get it fixed, but I have already looked at Jericho and G-Force 5 speeds as an alternative, and there may be others.
If the 855 grenades one time, that's a wrap. I'll have to cut the tunnel for either the G-Force or the Jericho, but honestly, the "go back to original" ship sailed once I started working on the car just to fix problems with it being Frankensteined together with all kinds of mismatched nuts, bolts, a Hurst shifter that had different parts from different years, none from 1970. The 1971 block, and so on...Besides, there are 2 fine examples of "factory" original appearing 70 Roadrunners in my area, and that costs a lot too, and isn't the route I ever wanted to go.

 

[themechanic]

Steve, are there a lot of gas stations within 20 miles of one another along the CTC route?

 

[biomedtechguy]

Lol...yes, and they have 100% no ethanol premium gas.
How bad can my mileage be with a overdrive 5th gear and only light pedal on my center 2bbl carb? Plus the aluminum block makes the car lighter too! Heck, I may have an "energy surplus"

 

[65Fury440]

Sounds like a really solid plan.
A few months back I freshened my engine, and bumped up the C/R from 10:1 to 11.25:1.
I was happy with the Howards flat tappet cam I put in 6 years ago, so I thought I'd use another cam from them with the appropriate duration to keep it pump gas friendly.
The new cam I got in June, compared to 6 years ago cam, were worlds apart. The new cam looked like a blob. The lobes were cut out of the blank, with little pieces of casting flash that looked like they would flake off after time and destroy the engine. I emailed Hughes, who took the cam back, but, charged me restocking. There is no way in hell that was going in my engine.
After reading about all the problems with lifters/cams, I just bit the bullet and had PRH help me spec a solid roller, and it looked really nice. Degreed out perfectly. (I am in no way a fan of Comp Cams, but having PRH involved made it worth giving them my coin.)
The lifters I decided on are the BAM lifters, bushed, with pressurized axle oiling, and DLC.
I only have a couple hundred miles on the new build with the new clutch and trans breaking in, so time will tell how long the lifters live, but, my machine shop said he measured every one, and, he was so impressed, he is using them now in any builds he can.

I agree, the N96 option is too cool to lose. Hopefully you find a happy median of performance VS keeping the 6 pack.
I think you will have a beast no matter what.

 

[biomedtechguy]

The lifters I decided on are the BAM lifters, bushed, with pressurized axle oiling, and DLC.

So you switched from solid flat tappet to solid roller?

the N96 option is too cool to lose. Hopefully you find a happy median of performance VS keeping the 6 pack.

That's another thing. By having so much grunt available, I am not that concerned about what (little in my opinion) power I may be giving up by staying with a 3x2 induction system.

 

[65Fury440]

So you switched from solid flat tappet to solid roller?

Yes, went to Dwayne Porter, helped me pick a good grind, for a bloated stick shift car.
Went with a 268/272@50, and somewhere around 670 net lift.

That's another thing. By having so much grunt available, I am not that concerned about what (little in my opinion) power I may be giving up by staying with a 3x2 induction system.

When you get up to the numbers a stroker has, you're right, you wont ever notice it.
I'm like you in the sense, more is better.
I had a stroked Hemi Challenger in the 90s with Indy heads, 767 hp on engine dyno. It was a good tire burner, but, that extra HP broke stuff. Things like weak springs breaking yokes show up.
After about 550 hp in a street car, the extra oomph is hardly ever used. On the track, it is useable, on the street, never.
I have tried to make my build as streetable as possible. Things like an electric fuel pump drop that down a percentage. It's all a compromise.

 

[biomedtechguy]

So you switched from solid flat tappet to solid roller?

Yes, went to Dwayne Porter, helped me pick a good grind, for a bloated stick shift car. Went with a 268/272@50, and somewhere around 670 net lift.

That leads me to examine what you posted here more thoroughly:

The lifters I decided on are the BAM lifters, bushed, with pressurized axle oiling, and DLC.

DLC?
The aluminum block has lifter bushings, if that matters.
I guess my only question is do those solid roller lifters address my concerns about lots of idling, stop and slow and go traffic, and how often they have to be removed and rebuilt? If they "fix" most or all of those concerns, then the question is what kind of cam profile does that get me vs flat tappet solids, and what other advantages vs the cost?
Thanks.
Low maintenance is kind of important, relative to what I will have of course.

 

[65Fury440]

DLC= diamond like coating.
I should have expanded more in my posts, sorry, typing while at stoplights.
The chance of losing a cam lobe, and sending metal through a brand new motor, or, maybe having to spend a few hundred every 5 years to get them rebuilt. That's what it boiled down to in my mind.
I would have to think, whatever sources are making cam blanks, are limited, and companies like Howards are getting what they can.
There has been a lot of internet chatter about bad lifters/cams lately, I seen first hand the difference.
After all the research I did, the BAM solid bushing, pressurized axle, DLC solid rollers are what I chose. So far, so good.
I'm sure some guys here could comment on the long idle periods. I idle mine about 1150 rpm, stays over 40psi hot.
I was told keeping the springs oiled/cooled was important.

 

[biomedtechguy]

having to spend a few hundred every 5 years to get them rebuilt.

I'm sure that depends on usage. I would like to believe that I may do some road trips in the future, like driving to Oklahoma to do a Street Outlaws and Farmtruck/AZN "tour", Mopar and/or Hotrod Power Tour, and maybe ship or trailer both the GTO and Roadrunner some place like the west coast for a cruise or venue...
BUT
I KNOW I'm going to do Cruisin the Coast every year my health and finances allow, and trips to my local 1320 track. THAT would be a much better time than I've had in the last year. I'm saying all that because of frequency of maintenance on solid rollers, and how that may effect the lifter rebuilding timetable.

I'm sure some guys here could comment on the long idle periods. I idle mine about 1150 rpm, stays over 40psi hot.

I wish they would.
My current idle is around 900 RPM.
I honestly don't know what the 541 may idle at.

 

[Jc cooper]

Here is yet another perfect match for a need I have in both of our classic muscle cars.
We added Vintage Air AC to both cars. Right now, idle speed is about 150-250 RPMs higher than what I'd like. I did that to offset the drop that the AC compressor puts on the engines. They're both manual transmission cars, but you auto transmission guys could get an even greater benefit from this:
By raising the timing advance at RPMs lower than idle speed, that offsets the load, whether it be going into gear on an auto or the compressor kicking on.
The extra timing advance compensates for the load.
All I could think to do was to try to use my factory anti dieseling solenoid (that I do not use for my idle speed) and adapt it to extend when the AC came on, and that would still leave me with having to come up with something for the Tripower in the GTO.
Then there's THIS:

That what I did on my 440 , used solenoid, wired in , turn on ac blower and raises idle right back to normal speed, all oem parts!