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Proper crankcase ventilation setup

Wietse

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Gents,

Today after some heavy throttling on the road i noticed there was some oil drops on the passenger side crankcase breather dripping on the header causing a smell. (reason for opening the hood and check where the smell came from)

Anyway, this is the current setup:

Passenger side valve cover has a breather only. (no hose connection or anything)
Driver side has a pcv installed (recently) and a oil fill cap.

Thinking i was doing the right thing when installing the pcv was to connect the pcv hose on the air filter base plate.
Now after some searching on the forum here i came to know that this connection on the air filter can be used to connect a hose that leads to the breather. (and not the pcv)
This way there is filtered air entering the crank case.
The other thing i found was that the pcv needs to be connected to a vacuum port on the carburetor so the vacuum is at best to pull the air through the crankcase.

With this setup it makes me wonder, i would class the air coming from the crankcase into the intake manifold as "false" air as it did not come through the carb and it's throttle plates.
That makes me doubt if i am correct in saying i need to connect the pcv hose to the carburetor manifold vacuum port.
I have only one 3/8" vacuum port on the back of my Holley carb and there is a hose for the brake booster installed.
Can i Tee in the hose for the pcv valve here as well, as close to the carb as possible or does this fill up my brake booster with oil and fumes?
Or better to connect to a smaller 1/4" connection up front of the carb?

Obviously i have a poor crankcase ventilation and i need to get it up to specs to prevent oil being spewed out of the breather.
I've read an article which was posted in another thread regarding the importance of the CCV system but it does not clearly tell me where to hook it up on a carbureted engine.
Can someone please advice me what the best way is to set this up?
 
connect the brake booster to an intake runner and the pcv valve to the carb,

also a good test is to but a piece of paper over the breather intake while running to make sure it is "sucking"
 
Indeed, i have a 3/8" pipe plug on the back of the intake where i can connect the vacuum for the brake booster.
I don't have a 3/8" adapter lying around to connect so i need to buy it before i can continue.

Does the air pulled through the pcv not create any issues with the carb settings?
As this would count as a vacuum leak, being it through the crankcase.....
 
Well, i found some bits and pieces and fabbed an adapter together to connect the vacuum hose for the brake booster.
Installed the pcv hose on the vacuum port on the carb and started it.
Just let it idle and revved some and runs ok so far, road test will tell more i guess.

I removed the breather and placed a piece of paper over it and it sucks well :lol:

Never realised this is the correct way to connect a pcv valve.
Thanks for the help!
 
Gents,

Today after some heavy throttling on the road i noticed there was some oil drops on the passenger side crankcase breather dripping on the header causing a smell. (reason for opening the hood and check where the smell came from)

Anyway, this is the current setup:

Passenger side valve cover has a breather only. (no hose connection or anything)
Driver side has a pcv installed (recently) and a oil fill cap.

Thinking i was doing the right thing when installing the pcv was to connect the pcv hose on the air filter base plate.
Now after some searching on the forum here i came to know that this connection on the air filter can be used to connect a hose that leads to the breather. (and not the pcv)
This way there is filtered air entering the crank case.
The other thing i found was that the pcv needs to be connected to a vacuum port on the carburetor so the vacuum is at best to pull the air through the crankcase.

With this setup it makes me wonder, i would class the air coming from the crankcase into the intake manifold as "false" air as it did not come through the carb and it's throttle plates.
That makes me doubt if i am correct in saying i need to connect the pcv hose to the carburetor manifold vacuum port.
I have only one 3/8" vacuum port on the back of my Holley carb and there is a hose for the brake booster installed.
Can i Tee in the hose for the pcv valve here as well, as close to the carb as possible or does this fill up my brake booster with oil and fumes?
Or better to connect to a smaller 1/4" connection up front of the carb?

Obviously i have a poor crankcase ventilation and i need to get it up to specs to prevent oil being spewed out of the breather.
I've read an article which was posted in another thread regarding the importance of the CCV system but it does not clearly tell me where to hook it up on a carbureted engine.
Can someone please advice me what the best way is to set this up?
I've been waiting patiently for this topic to come up. If you get positive pressure in the crankcase for too long, you can experience rear seal failure, rocker cover leakage and blow by gases and oil actually seeping out the breather vents. Concerned about this I recently purchased an M/E Wagner adjustable PCV valve and installed it. I cannot express how well this little gem works on my 512 but I no longer smell oil fumes, my rear seal ceased to drip and the engine actually runs way better. Go to their site or others and read the full scoop and you'll be pleasantly surprised at how important this little piece is.
 
Well, my rear main seal has a slight drip that i know of since i own the car. (which might decrease now)
When i bought the car the engine had 2 breathers installed and for the rest nothing.
As i was reading something about pcv valves, i also noted the valve helps to prevent moisture build up which in my case is quite important in the environment i live with high humidity and quite big temperature changes between day and night.
Aside from that i also kept the other benefits in mind and ordered a pcv valve and installed it.
Installing it in the way i assumed was correct, and today wondering why there are still so much fumes coming out of the breather that even oil leaks out i realised i f*cked up somewhere.
Just the way of installation confused me from being right or wrong.
But it is really noticeable that there is a lot of air pulled through the engine now, tomorrow just need to check it is not causing any carb issues.
 
I've been waiting patiently for this topic to come up. If you get positive pressure in the crankcase for too long, you can experience rear seal failure, rocker cover leakage and blow by gases and oil actually seeping out the breather vents. Concerned about this I recently purchased an M/E Wagner adjustable PCV valve and installed it. I cannot express how well this little gem works on my 512 but I no longer smell oil fumes, my rear seal ceased to drip and the engine actually runs way better. Go to their site or others and read the full scoop and you'll be pleasantly surprised at how important this little piece is.

I have a newly built 496 stroker, when I get on it hard, the rear main leaks near passenger side. My vac is around 6-7hg (the needle flutters) do you think this pcv would work? I think maybe I have to much pressure with the low vacuum and it's getting past the rear main.
 
I have a newly built 496 stroker, when I get on it hard, the rear main leaks near passenger side. My vac is around 6-7hg (the needle flutters) do you think this pcv would work? I think maybe I have to much pressure with the low vacuum and it's getting past the rear main.
1968 street hemi`s cam straight out of the factory w/ a pcv on the drivers side, plumbed to vacuum, and the pass side plumbed to the breather nipple . Give you any ideas ?
 
Gents,

Today after some heavy throttling on the road i noticed there was some oil drops on the passenger side crankcase breather dripping on the header causing a smell. (reason for opening the hood and check where the smell came from)

Anyway, this is the current setup:

Passenger side valve cover has a breather only. (no hose connection or anything)
Driver side has a pcv installed (recently) and a oil fill cap.

Thinking i was doing the right thing when installing the pcv was to connect the pcv hose on the air filter base plate.
Now after some searching on the forum here i came to know that this connection on the air filter can be used to connect a hose that leads to the breather. (and not the pcv)
This way there is filtered air entering the crank case.
The other thing i found was that the pcv needs to be connected to a vacuum port on the carburetor so the vacuum is at best to pull the air through the crankcase.

With this setup it makes me wonder, i would class the air coming from the crankcase into the intake manifold as "false" air as it did not come through the carb and it's throttle plates.
That makes me doubt if i am correct in saying i need to connect the pcv hose to the carburetor manifold vacuum port.
I have only one 3/8" vacuum port on the back of my Holley carb and there is a hose for the brake booster installed.
Can i Tee in the hose for the pcv valve here as well, as close to the carb as possible or does this fill up my brake booster with oil and fumes?
Or better to connect to a smaller 1/4" connection up front of the carb?

Obviously i have a poor crankcase ventilation and i need to get it up to specs to prevent oil being spewed out of the breather.
I've read an article which was posted in another thread regarding the importance of the CCV system but it does not clearly tell me where to hook it up on a carbureted engine.
Can someone please advice me what the best way is to set this up?
I have to be honest, I purchased and installed a Wagner PCV and the difference was readily noticeable. The rear main stopped leaking all together, mind you it wasn't major to begin with, the odor of hot oil is gone when idling, my valve covers do not seep anymore and the engine just seems to run better. With a stroker, that crank can really stir things up down there and I would think there's the opportunity for a bit more crankcase pressure than with a stock crank. I spoke to the folks at Wagner before my installation to make sure I got things right the first time, they are very friendly and knowledgeable people and know all the tweaks for proper operation. They are to some extent expensive valves but considering their a life time investment, not so much so.
 
Also make sure there's baffles under the breather to deflect oil from entering.
 
I have to be honest, I purchased and installed a Wagner PCV and the difference was readily noticeable. The rear main stopped leaking all together, mind you it wasn't major to begin with, the odor of hot oil is gone when idling, my valve covers do not seep anymore and the engine just seems to run better. With a stroker, that crank can really stir things up down there and I would think there's the opportunity for a bit more crankcase pressure than with a stock crank. I spoke to the folks at Wagner before my installation to make sure I got things right the first time, they are very friendly and knowledgeable people and know all the tweaks for proper operation. They are to some extent expensive valves but considering their a life time investment, not so much so.
Ever since I replaced the stock valve covers on my 440+6 with "fabricated" Mopar-enblazoned crinckle black valve covers I have had oil come out of the driver's side breather. I have a functioning PCV valve hooked up like the original one except for the new breather vs old. The old breather had a hose that went to a metal nipple built onto the air cleaner, the new breather is just a foam insert in a vented cap. Now the air cleaner nipple is NOT a sealed or vacuum inducing connection, so I don't see how that could be the problem. I am going to try the PCV valve you recommend.
 
M/E Wagner Performance PCV Valve on its way. If all it does is keep oil from coming out of the breather, I'm glad, but I believe that it may do much more.
Follow up report coming soon.
 
M/E Wagner Performance PCV Valve on its way. If all it does is keep oil from coming out of the breather, I'm glad, but I believe that it may do much more.
Follow up report coming soon.
Follow up report...so far, AWESOME!!
The product is so well made. CNC'd billet aluminum. Adjustment hardware, all hardware precise and top quality. Customer service and tech support OUTSTANDING! Instructions very detailed and well written, all hardware (Allen wrenches, replacement spring, vacuum gauge attachment) individually bagged and labeled. I have been tying up loose ends with work and my and my wife's cars, and was physically and mentally whipped yesterday evening when I called M/E Wagner Performance after I opened the box and read the instructions. Jerry(?) was nice enough to take the time to help and suggested that I set it in "fixed orifice tuning mode" just for today's 1 1/2 hour each way highway jaunt to the car show. Highway speeds and track days were the WORSE for getting way too much oil coming out of my breather cap. I installed it as instructed and today when I got to the show the breather cap was clean. Very slight film of oil in the middle of the cap "pipe" that goes into the valve cover grommet, but the foam filter insert was dry and clean.
I am going to take the time to tune the PCV valve for cruise and idle mode, but for a "generic" setup mode, I am very happy and impressed!
More to come.
 
Follow up report...so far, AWESOME!!
The product is so well made. CNC'd billet aluminum. Adjustment hardware, all hardware precise and top quality. Customer service and tech support OUTSTANDING! Instructions very detailed and well written, all hardware (Allen wrenches, replacement spring, vacuum gauge attachment) individually bagged and labeled. I have been tying up loose ends with work and my and my wife's cars, and was physically and mentally whipped yesterday evening when I called M/E Wagner Performance after I opened the box and read the instructions. Jerry(?) was nice enough to take the time to help and suggested that I set it in "fixed orifice tuning mode" just for today's 1 1/2 hour each way highway jaunt to the car show. Highway speeds and track days were the WORSE for getting way too much oil coming out of my breather cap. I installed it as instructed and today when I got to the show the breather cap was clean. Very slight film of oil in the middle of the cap "pipe" that goes into the valve cover grommet, but the foam filter insert was dry and clean.
I am going to take the time to tune the PCV valve for cruise and idle mode, but for a "generic" setup mode, I am very happy and impressed!
More to come.

any further update on how you are liking your m/e wagner pcv?
 
any further update on how you are liking your m/e wagner pcv?
Great so far. Unfortunately work and "honey do's" have kept me from tuning the M/E Wagner Performance PCV valve, it's still in the "generic" setting. No oil out of the breather still, so that's great.
 
Motors can and do run with no PCV without no leaking. However they has to be adequate baffling at the breather, catch can ,etc. A PCV won't stop any leaks if the system has enough breather. A PCV will reduce fumes and make driving on the street more enjoyable. Also reduces the major cause on auto emissions. Correct me if I'm wrong but this adjustable PCV would have to pull more flow if it was trying to compensate for excessive blowby? Adding blowby products replacing carb inlet air in the mixture. Good baffeling and ring seal are the key. Without these all the breather and PCV in the world won't help.
Doug
 
Motors can and do run with no PCV without no leaking. However they has to be adequate baffling at the breather, catch can ,etc. A PCV won't stop any leaks if the system has enough breather. A PCV will reduce fumes and make driving on the street more enjoyable. Also reduces the major cause on auto emissions. Correct me if I'm wrong but this adjustable PCV would have to pull more flow if it was trying to compensate for excessive blowby? Adding blowby products replacing carb inlet air in the mixture. Good baffeling and ring seal are the key. Without these all the breather and PCV in the world won't help.
Doug
My problem was when I switched out my stock valve covers to Mopar logo fabricated aluminum valve covers I had to get a new PCV valve that would fit. Just because it fits and functions does not mean that it "works for your application" and that is what I found. The M/E Wagner fits, and works.
In the process, I learned A LOT.
There are a number of linked articles on their site:
http://mewagner.com/
Here's one:
http://www.powerperformancenews.com/tech/an-adjustable-pcv-valve-for-the-street/
 
I read the article. It states there was little or no flow in standard PCV systems. Why is that? The reason that comes to my mind is that blow by has exceeded the flow capability of the system. I have no doubt that this system would help that. The real question is why is there excessive blow by.
Doug
 
I'm with DVW on the blowby deal.
Excessive crankcase pressure is the culprit.
With proper ventilation, an engine with crankcase pressure within reason will be fine, PVC or no PVC. Too much blowby, and you will push the dipstick out and stress the gaskets and seals.
An engine does not need a vacuum source on the vent in order to vent.
 
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