PST Idler arm

[Rob'68Net]

I recently got a replacement 1969 B body idler arm from PST. New arm is unlike the original in that it comes with a nylon lock nut to hold the bolt to the K frame. My question is, when I go to tighten the lock nut on the bolt, it's either loose or so tight you can barely move it. What am I missing here? There are no washers anywhere. See photos for reference. Thanks in advance, Rob

 

[dvw]

Tighten it up. It'll loosen with use. Done many of them.
Doug

 

[dodgeboy440]

I recently got a replacement 1969 B body idler arm from PST. New arm is unlike the original in that it comes with a nylon lock nut to hold the bolt to the K frame. My question is, when I go to tighten the lock nut on the bolt, it's either loose or so tight you can barely move it. What am I missing here? There are no washers anywhere. See photos for reference. Thanks in advance, Rob

View attachment 1810745

View attachment 1810746

I’ve seen them referred to as “ nylok” bolts
The insert resists vibration & maintains torque better than a conventional bolt.

Torque to spec & you should be good to go .

Mopar2ya!

 

[j-c-c-62]

If mine, I would ditch that nylon lock nut. I would use an all-metal Stover style lock nut. Nylon doesn't handle heat well if headers or exhaust is nearbyby on a street car and nylon has a low cycle life rate, all of which should be an important consideration for steering components. The Stover nuts also are usually shorter in height which looks to be another issue in your picture. In a road race car you would also likely just use a longer bolt and cotter key or safety wire it. I don't see anything from stopping you from inverting the bolt, nut down, so gravity might retain the bolt and buy the car some time if the nut departed.

 

[Rob'68Net]

j-c-c-62 it is hard to see in the photo but I do have about 1/2" of thread protruding from the top of the nut. I do like your idea with the stover nut, it even resembles the factory nut more. Only reason I put the bolt up through the K frame is because it appears from looking at my parts cars that is the way the factory did. Thanks again! Rob

 

[j-c-c-62]

j-c-c-62 it is hard to see in the photo but I do have about 1/2" of thread protruding from the top of the nut. I do like your idea with the stover nut, it even resembles the factory nut more. Only reason I put the bolt up through the K frame is because it appears from looking at my parts cars that is the way the factory did. Thanks again! Rob

My bad, sorry, you could maybe drill the exposed thread for a cotter pin, unless I also missed that.