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Pulling a engine for the first time - need help

69clone

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Pulling a engine for the first time

Ok so I'm pulling the 318 out of my 69' Satty and I can't believe what a PITA it's been so far. Driver side header was a you know what! I don't know how the previous owner got it on there... Had to pry it over the header studs because it was smacked up against the power steering after getting it wedged I was at least able to remove the motor mount bolt... I still can't remove the header because the steering linkage runs through it and after removing the 4 nuts holding that on it still wont budge even after pounding on it (not sure how to take the tension off the linkage, tried raising the front and turning the wheel)... So where I am at right now I could use some help/advise.
1. How do I remove the steering linkage so I can get the header out?
2. Both motor mounts are unbolted and the bolts removed connecting to tranny, what now? It still doesn't wanna move...
Thanks for you help guys I really appreciate it!:headbang:
 
Last edited:
Hi
The column connects to the steering box at the coupler.
Disconnect the 2 or 3 bolts at the coupler.
I believe (cant remember) mid-way up there is a collar with a pin that gets tapped out with a Ball Peen hammer and a small punch.
Now is the time to replace the weak plastic bushing that is a FAIL item in the column
SEE PICS:
 

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Just got cleaned up finally got the engine out. Here I didn't see the bolt tucked under the driver side where the starter was. I knew there was one somewhere just couldn't see it with everything in the way, finally had the idea to look at one of the engines on the stand to see where it was. Pretty happy I was able to do it pretty much all on my own. My dad helped when it was finally coming out so nothing got damaged (He has the experience but I wanted to do it on my own). Super_bee; Thanks I will have to take a look at that. Guessing you probably can't buy that plastic bushing locally huh? The steering linkage I was actually referring to is the bar that runs from the left to right wheel, I think its called a track rod? I'm guessing with the engine out I should be able to force it off.

Next thing on my list now is to get the engine bay degreased
 
Go to your local auto parts store and buy or borrow a 'pickle fork' to separate the TIE ROD from the idler arm (passenger side) and the pitman arm (driver's side). Make sure and get the one for the tie rod, as there is also a pickle fork for ball joints that is larger. Look in your service manual and follow the directions.
 
When you go to install the engine, you might want to give serious consideration into installing it from below (as the factory did). It makes life much easier as you can have the headers and all accessories on already.
 
When you go to install the engine, you might want to give serious consideration into installing it from below (as the factory did). It makes life much easier as you can have the headers and all accessories on already.

I've always heard that was the way to do it with mopars. Just didn't know how and figured it couldn't have been much harder doing it this way, but after doing this I'm pretty sure I'm wrong... I'll have to look at it tomorrow and see what all has to be done. I would like to remove the k member anyways and paint it black while I can.
image (2).jpgimage (3).jpgimage.jpgimage (1).jpg
 
Congratulations, pulling an engine is a cool milestone. After this it will seem easy, just watch out you don't get addicted! Remember to slap new motor mounts on before you replace it.
 
Congratulations, pulling an engine is a cool milestone. After this it will seem easy, just watch out you don't get addicted! Remember to slap new motor mounts on before you replace it.

Yes it was. Now I just hope I know what I'm doing now when it comes to installing the new engine haha. Are you talking about the part with the rubber bushing? I do have new ones of those ready to go.
 
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So I am sitting in the garage looking at the k frame looks pretty simple to get out but I have a question when I undo the suspension and stuff to remove the k frame is the front going to buckle or be hard to move? I'll probably wind up throwing some jacks under the firewall to hold it up anyways just wondered what to expect. If I have to move the car with the k frame out for whatever reason it's going to be a b**** isn't it?

Edit sorry I posted the pictures from my phone i don't know why they are upside down...
 
I pulled my original LA and dropped in a Magnum 318 by myself using a screw-and-wheel type load leveler. The one that Harbor Freight sells works great (the 2 ton: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-60659.html).

I'd only recommend getting the engine's mount ears squared with the mounts on the K-frame without the brackets attached. I tried dropping in mine with the mounts already on the engine to try to make things easier for myself but I ended up hanging up and tearing the driver's mount in the process of dropping it in.

You seriously do not need to pull the K-frame to do this. I don't know why this has become the de-facto lore for so many guys here. It's a lot of extra work for no good reason unless you're working on the K-frame or front clip itself along with the engine.
 
I can't count how many motors I've pulled and they all have been from the top.
 
You seriously do not need to pull the K-frame to do this. I don't know why this has become the de-facto lore for so many guys here. It's a lot of extra work for no good reason unless you're working on the K-frame or front clip itself along with the engine.

X2 on this, you can do all the detailing you need to do with it in place.
 
Thanks y'all I decided not to take the k frame out. I began to but having to remove a lot of extra stuff isn't what I want to do right now so I tightened everything. Glad I did I found the big 1.5"? nut on power steering box to pitman arm to hardly be finger tight... I cleaned the k frame all up and I'm just going to paint it before I paint the engine bay. In the future if I have more room and a better system I will have to try removing the k frame but honestly think it is going to be easier for me to go from the top at this time. I already have to remove the accessories to change the pully and add a power steering pump. And like my dad said If I'm adding a motor plate (undecided still) I wouldn't be able to go from the bottom anyways (hadn't thought about it).
Any recommendations for preping/painting the engine bay? Its pretty tough even with the motor out to clean it up good.
 
Thanks y'all I decided not to take the k frame out. I began to but having to remove a lot of extra stuff isn't what I want to do right now so I tightened everything. Glad I did I found the big 1.5"? nut on power steering box to pitman arm to hardly be finger tight... I cleaned the k frame all up and I'm just going to paint it before I paint the engine bay. In the future if I have more room and a better system I will have to try removing the k frame but honestly think it is going to be easier for me to go from the top at this time. I already have to remove the accessories to change the pully and add a power steering pump. And like my dad said If I'm adding a motor plate (undecided still) I wouldn't be able to go from the bottom anyways (hadn't thought about it).
Any recommendations for preping/painting the engine bay? Its pretty tough even with the motor out to clean it up good.

I went to Dollar Tree and bought a few scrubbers (they're gonna get ruined) and a big jug of that Super Purple cleaner stuff that O'Reilly's carries. Several goes of that makes most any glop come free. I found my K-frame nicely preserved under all of that tasty oil-dirt cake.
 
Thanks I sprayed some simple green it seemed to help a lot more than the degreaser was. I began sanding the fenders my fear was confirmed my fender tag was rusty and under neath is a lot of pitting. I know this isn't the forum to ask but any recommendations to fix this? image.jpg
 
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